Peter260

head = so explodie right now. but all good information.

thanks all for your replys; i will be running a front spoiler so there should be room there for 215; In terms of ride/handling i wouldnt go to 70 series; 50 series is really only on 15" wheels and bigger leaving me with 60 series the lowest series on 14s i could go to and try and get close to maintaining rolling diameter. I am aware that the sidewall of a 215/60 is around 0.7cm*2 = 1.4cm less than the original 195/70. (simply by multiplying 0.60*215 compared to 0.70*195) But i am going down by 3.0cm in lowering height so i am guessing this will negate out any issues around gap. I hope its low enough.

thanks for the shots. 225 looks ppretty smart. I am noticing its a little bit chubby at the back in the third shot. question is do i want a the ' 14's on fats' look. cheers.

thanks all for your responses. after much deliberation i am going to first hunt for 215/60 all round, and see how i go. - decided same front and back - probably the best thing - 225 would probably rub up front from the above so best leave some room in the there by going to a 215; BFs are the likely outcome simply because they are one of few! cheers, Peter

I am not overly worried about the tyre rotating side of things. the handling a bit - will 225s fit in the front was the other thing? I would have thought on 7" wide rim 215 or 225 would be a better fit than 205?

ignoring cost (assuming all options are the same cost), which is better on a 30mm lowered s30 on a 14x7 wheelset with zero offset. better on 2 levels: - handling - looks (more importantly!) options - 215/60/14 all round - 225/60/14 all round - 215/60/14 front, 225/60/14 rear does skinnier front not work in an s30s favour for handling? experences? looking at BF goodich ta (white letters) in all outcomes. thanks, Peter

it is 12/1975, i have done a search and it sounds like it might be a grounding issue; I have also done a bit of work looking at my factory manual wiring diagram and there is a ground wire [up near the battery for LHD's] but near the booster for RHD's that 'i think' is currently not grounded. Someone else had this problem in an old post. fingers crossed that is what it is when i look tonight; thanks again;

in the other diagram i had the ground was on the 30 not the 87; I think when the other person drew the diagram he did it after he had done the job and simply mixed the two up; anyone have an idea on parking lights? I have the two part parkers; i.e. half the casing is flasher and the other half is parking light; not like the 240z where the parker uses up the full case [i.e. for 240z you put the flasher on and the globe simply gets brighter across whole case];

ok the good news is that i was able to get the headlights working. both low and high beam work a treat. the bad news is that now my parking lights don't work... this needs to be fixed... anyone?

I don't see cutting into wires as a problem, once it is all wrapped up again with black electrical tape it all looks the same to me, as long as you solder/connect wires properly. The two relays mount under the relay box out of vision so it is really neat and tidy; I will check my workings against your wiring diagram, it looks v similar but with 2 10A fuses instead of one 30A. thanks again for your responses;

ok. power wise i have tried two things with the same result; 1) BAT post off alternator to 30A fuse then to RED wire and RED with yellow stripe wires[spliced together]. 2) positive terminal off battery to 30A fuse then to RED wire and RED with yellow stripe wires[spliced together]. The red and red/yellow wires are out of the main harness and have come from each of the headlights; Before i say anymore i best get a wiring diagram for you all, i don't want people wasting to much time on me without it; cheers; both times the high beam relay is engaging when the switch is turned to high-beam.

Ok i have completed the a headlight wiring upgrade for my 260z; 2 relays [one low beam, one high beam]; 8g wire from BAT on alternator via 30 amp fuse for power; a pretty usual upgrade. Now my headlights don't work at all; when i turn the lights onto low beam i cannot hear the low beam relay engage [click] but when i then go onto high beam i can hear the high beam relay engage [clikc]. Either way no headlights. So basically i am a bit stumped. i have checked all my wiring and every thing seems in order; Any ideas or basic tips that i might be missing? I will dig up the wiring diagram i used to help out also, but from memory it was a sound method which has been completed successfully by many. I feel like i've been taking crazy pills trying to get this to work; cheers; Peter/

Nah, it looks like too much work and i am up for a challenge but better off sourcing L28et parts from usa. All in all i am proceeding with RB20 turbs. I am putting together the parts to do it now. Just trying to find out if 200zr mounts will allow enough room for rb20 to clear hood on the s30, can't get an answer anywhere.

hi, i have a 260Z and am looking to turbo charge a L28 to put in it. A mate of mine has a complete setup off an L20turbo motor,, i mean intake manifold, T3 turbo , turbo manifold, down pipe, injectors, AFM all L20 turbo fitted up to a loom and computer from a 280ZX NA. He has never run it but i think it will all work. I want to turbo a l28 motor - is this setup from the L20 turbo exactly the same as that of the L28 turbo? because it definately looks it, - or are injectors and AFM and intake manifold size (internally) smaller? I know it will bolt up easily enough but i do want about 160 -170 rear wheel kws without changing turbo size, and maybe without intercooling - at this stage. any help on this appreciated. thanks Peter