cozye

I can't remember exactly what PSI it was, it's been a while and I've forgot. He does say in his original post though that when he applies 20" of vacuum with the mighty vac, it drops the pressure to 28. Something still doesn't sound right though, even with my FPR disconnected, my fuel pressure isn't that high (40psi) I know. I'm also wondering how the non running fuel pressure was read, since the fuel pump shouldn't be running when the car isn't running. The main thing is that the higher the vacuum, the lower the fuel pressure. More vacuum opens the FPR up to drop the pressure. He's got to get the vacuum up. Zed is right too, the WTS is a good place to check, as well as other tests on the EFI system. I figured ruling out vacuum leaks would be the first place I would start before moving on.

The vacuum is really low. You need to find and fix that issue, or at least rule out leaks and other causes of low vacuum. That will lower the fuel pressure some, probably not enough, but some. Are you 100% certain you don't have vacuum leaks ? Going by your comments, I would assume that if you had a proper 18" of vacuum, you would be right around 30-32psi on the fuel pressure at idle which should be about right.

yes you do.

Thanks for the info Sarah. I've rebuilt one of my windows already, the other is still original. I remember that when I removed the windows, the weatherstrip was kind of "stuck" on, specifically with the upper corner, but that could have just been due to heat and age with the door shut on them. If you've removed and replaced yours without tearing up the seals, then perhaps I'm just worrying too much about it..

I know there are at least 20 guys on here who have replaced these. My searches yield no advice on my specific questions. Give me some love..

In preparation for installation of my 1/4 windows with new weatherstrip, I've got a couple quick questions. In reference to the long rubber piece on the front of the that hangs down below the window opening for the door to seal against, should I use adhesive to secure it to the door jamb? On the upper corner, there is some upper corner rubber pieces, as well as the flat part of that front seal that sits against the top of the window/door jamb. Should I use adhesive on that agains the paint as well? The reason I'm asking is that the adhesive that came with my weatherstrip kit is the loctite weathestrip adhesive, and specifically says not to use on painted surfaces..

I dug up this image for reference, notice the yellow silicon hose at the top of the pic. That's going to the bottom of the BPT. My old one was cracked and all I had was the yellow hose.

If your a reasonably strong guy you can drop the tranny right on your chest. 2nd time I pulled mine out I didn't have any help and I was just trying to get it done and over with. I got it out in about 45 minutes by myself, just took out all bolts, driveshaft etc.. and when I was ready to jerk it out, I just slid it back and "bench" pressed it down, then raised it over my head while on my back and set it down.

I believe the steel line that comes up from the intake manifold is similar on the 78, however it's cut off and there is only a vacuum hose connecting the steel line to the BPT. You might simply cut the boss off with a pipe cutter, and connect via vacuum line. An idea anyhow..

Color is on the car! Still needs to be color sanded and buffed, but it's looking good.

I think it will be ok. I was concerned that it would be too loud at first as well. It's not. It sounds really good. I also noticed that it got a bit quieter and mellowed after a few miles.

you are running rich going by the plugs. You are saying that the vacuum advance dashpot leaks ? When you have mighty vac on it at 10in, it doesn't stay in the same place ? I believe that would be leaking and you may want to replace. I don't think that's your issue though. What vacuum is your engine pulling while running ? I would check water temp sensor for correct operation, check for thermostat correct operation, check TPS switch. Also make sure your CSV isn't leaking and that it's operating correctly. I'd be willing to bet it's one of these things assuming no one has messed with your AFM.

I'll have to add this to my list.

ok, I briefly remember seeing something about this upgrade in previous searches. Where did you get the RT mount ?

I used a pipe wrench, carefully placed on the edge of the gland nut as not to grab or scrape on the strut tube.

I did the same install on my 280, with the tie rod ends from rock auto. Went smooth, no issues, and my alignment was near perfect when I took it to have it checked. I don't remember all of the specific details, but do you suppose it's possible you got the knuckles mixed up from the ball joints ? I could see how possibly swapping right for left, then flipping upside down might initially work, but mess up the angle on the knuckle. It's the only reasonable explanation I can think of. Everything else is fixed.

absolutely beautiful. I look forward to seeing it first hand at zcon.

We paid the registration fees and signed up for everything Zcon. I just wanted to understand if there were additional costs for anything, and weather it was relavent if I arrived in a Z or not. We will definitely be trying to take the Z

What if I dont have my car together in time to bring it? It's going to be close, I'm going to have about 2 weeks to put it back together after paint. The guys in my local Z club said something about when they went to Daytona, you had to pay an extra fee to get into the car show if you didn't bring a car ?

slightly related, on my 280, the oil pressure was just slightly above zero at idle but would come up while driving. I just replaced the sending unit a while back and now it's much higher and reads strong pressure at idle. I'm sure it's just the sending unit.

If fuel flow was restricted, the pressure at the rail would drop. You can't have low fuel flow, and maintain spec pressure.

They are fuses. leave them in there. no need to convert them

all you need is a good voltmeter and the wiring schematic.

around here you can go for years without seeing a single S30, so nothing is common !

The plate under the differential is a damper, and a good spot to jack the car up. It is stock on a 280z. The other plate in pic 7, is actually a rubber flap, backed by a sheet metal bracket. it is stock as well, not sure the original purpose but it's fabricated like a splash guard or something.