cozye

You will have much more action selling the car if you take GOOD detailed pictures of every angle of the outside, interior, including underneath showing the frame rails, wheel wells, dog legs, battery tray, torsion bar mounts, etc..

I've got the HP's as well and like them. I don't see anything in pic 6 or 7 that isn't stock ?

He put a fuel pressure gauge on it which will rule out a supply issue or a kinked line. The only thing he hasn't done is check the FPR by pulling the vacuum line and observing fuel pressure. There are a LOT of other things that could be wrong, but he has to get these baseline tests done before moving on.

If his plugs are black, I would say rich not lean ?

Interesting. Expensive, but interesting. Looks like the welding part would require "tig" type skills.

For the cuts I was using an air powered cut off tool with the normal disc. As far as the sheet metal fabrication, I used several methods. On the hatch jamb, I used a metal brake and hammered out the corners with a body hammer on a vice. For the rocker patches behind the fenders, I used a combination of a metal brake, pliers, and welding together pieces to get the same i wanted. For the dog legs, I just cut a section out of a tabco patch panel, and had to slot it a little and bend it a little more since it didn't fit perfect. Basically I just figured out how to work with what I had to make the shapes I wanted, got it close, dollied it out a little when I needed to and a small bit of plastic. The rear quarter panel patches I just bent by hand and a brake. I bought an eastwood mig welder. The had great reviews, were much cheaper than the typical lincoln/hobart/miller home welders, and they have infinetely adjustable/variable voltage settings instead of just 5-8 clicks like a lot of them. High end welders have the same type of variable voltage adjustment which is really nice to fine tune your heat settings when welding thin sheet metal. I bought the mig 135 110v version which is fine for all my needs and strong enough to weld up to 1/4" or so thick. http://www.eastwood.com/welders/eastwood-welders-1.html

and do you have a vacuum gauge? Pull the plugs and post pics of all 6.

what psi is it when you pull the vacuum line off the FPR?

wow. How come I never find anything like this.

I wouldn't necessarily believe that the fuel pressure gauge is bad. If memory serves me correctly, you should pretty much get a consistent fuel pressure of around 30-32 psi under all conditions, except when cranking (which could be simulated by removing the vacuum line from the FPR). The fuel pressure should go up to about 36psi with no vacuum applied to the FPR. The fuel pressure will go down a small amount with more vacuum (20+), but not by a lot. Maybe 28 psi or so ? If your fuel pressure isn't jumping up to 36 with the vacuum removed from the FPR, the FPR could be leaking some fuel by. If your car is still getting approx 30 psi of fuel pressure at 3000 or 4000 rpm, then you probably don't have a significant fuel pressure issue. You will also want a vacuum gauge. You will need to report your vacuum at idle.

I really need to put the two front fender panels in the classifieds that I have. I could have helped you out and saved you a few bucks. I ended up just getting brand new fenders instead.

That's what I was afraid of. I may just have to paint them the off white paint that I have, and if it turns out to be too far off and starts bothering me I can always pull them off easy enough and paint them black. It's not like there wasn't about 3 shades off off white in the car originally anyway.

They are off white. The car was original. I thought about painting them black, but I'm not sure if I would care for the look.

I've dyed all of the plastic in my interior with SEM color coat, the stuff works absolutely fantastic. My problem now is that the two brackets that hold the back rest to the seat need to be repainted. I have the off white interior, and getting a nice match of off white spray paint to refinish the brackets hasn't been easy. I'm wondering if the SEM color coat would stick well to metal ? I have all new vinyl for the seat upholstery as well, and the SEM is very close. I'm tempted to give it a shot and was wondering if anyone else had any success with this ?

also, pull the vacuum line off the FPR (and clamp it) at idle and report back what the fuel pressure is when you do that as well.

what psi is it at when you rev it to 3000 rpm ?

Some more pics. Went up today and helped put the hood, fenders and doors on. A few more small parts to clean up, and he's going to block the fenders out then paint will follow.

More progress has been made. The painter has been pretty busy blocking out the car, cleaning up the door jambs etc.. This car is going to look very straight when its done. I'm on my way up to the body shop now to assist with putting the fenders, hood, and doors back on. Should be done in a couple of weeks. Here are some pics of the progress. Tim had just painted the jambs the day before.

all 3 panels, the lamp housing, and your rear view mirror are all the same color. At least they were on mine. I used duplicolor universal metallic black and they came out nice. I cleared them as well.

I like either, but I do agree that the green 240 isn't the best choice for the color. It would look much better with a more neutral color.

That one should work, but this is the one I used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1710/ Realize that 3/8" is a little larger than your 8mm fuel line, but it's close enough that with a little lubrication you can slide it on.

There isn't a mass air flow sensor on the car. There is an air flow meter, but it operates differently than a MAF. you can test every part of the fuel injection system with a voltmeter, however you can really test anything until you verify proper fuel pressure. It's the first step. There are many people who have had the exact same symptoms as you, caused by a bit of rust settled in the fuel tank and clogging the fuel inlet, or a dirty fuel filter. No way to know until you visually verify proper fuel pressure. There is a factory service manual available for download that has a very thorough and detailed section on fuel injection system troubleshooting, you might take a look at that just to understand the system and prepare for what you will need to do once you verify consistent fuel pressure. Think about it like this. Fuel injection is like taking a water spigot and opening and shutting the valve quickly. The amount of time the valve is open in a given condition is constant (say at 3000rpm at operating temp). The fuel pressure should be consistent at that condition so that the exact amount of fuel is injected that is supposed to be injected. If you drop the pressure in half, you would only be getting half the liquid out of the spigot. On the fuel injector, it would be half the fuel, causing the motor to run lean, or starve for fuel.

the vacuum advance on our car is connected on the low vacuum side of the throttle body, for a quick test, you could rig a vacuum line off a T from your FPR vacuum line, and at idle you should be around 17-18", connect it to your advance while running, and observe timing change with a timing light. If it jumps up a bit (like 7 degrees I think?) then it's working. If it doesn't move at all, then its not working. Just be careful though, because reving the motor beyond a certain rpm will trigger the mechanical advance as well. Just make sure it stays at about idle when you do it, it will move up some due to the advance but not a lot.

You should have one anyway, they are great for bleeding brakes, clutches, troubleshooting dash pots, testing for leaks, etc.. http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html

what's your fuel pressure ?