cozye

wow. Wish I had 12k

I forget which outside pin. You can do either, but only one will make a significant fuel enrichment. One is "idle enrichment" which adds lust a touch of extra fuel when the throttle is closed. The other is "full enrichment" which adds a significant amount of fuel when the throttle is pressed significnatly (like 40% or more maybe). You can figure out which one is which by just unplugging the connector with the car off, then take an home meter and measure on the pins from the TPS. Check for continuity between the middle pin and one of the outside pins at full throttle. Whichever one that is, that's the one you will need to jump on the connector for the test. Also, you can drive it around with that plug undone and that jumpered just to see how it feels. It won't hurt anything, worst case it will just be running rich.

After details, now that you have spark, you need to go through the EFI section of the FSM and use the multimeter to test all inputs and voltages for the 35 pin ECU connector. This will rule out any ECU or EFI problems.

Wire the jumper on the connector between the outside and middle pin. no need to jump the delicate contacts of the TPS innards. Just take a 1" copper wire, strip 1/4 off each end and shove it in the connector ends. For the test you don't actually need to have the tps connected

I've got some friends in Spartanburg

Page EE25 5 wires Blue Black Black/white Green Red

it means you have power to your coil. Start on page EE24 of the FSM and test ignition componenets FSM can be downloaded here http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

you wont measure a voltage across the coil, it's very low resistance. As mentioned above you will measure from + to chassis ground, this only verifies that your coil is getting power. If you were refering to my previous post though about the pickup coil, thats in the distributor. not the ignition coil. I would go through the ignition section of the FSM and test everything. That will take the guess work out of it.

Another alternative ignition idea is to use a crane XR700, or XR3000. I did this on mine. It's a simple bolt in setup and replaces the magnetic pick up coil with an optical trigger setup. Also allows you to properly phase the trigger (my magnetic setup was off quite a bit). I think I spent about $140 and I no longer need an ignition module. All that is required is a 12v lead off the ignition circuit and the system is self contained after that. I wouldn't go down this path though until you've verified no spark and that your current ignition module is malfunctioning. Are you sure your pick up coil is working ? Ignition wont fire if it's not getting a trigger. Could be a short or a dirty barrel connector from the distributor.

Thanks Dave. btw, what air dam is that ?

are you basing the "no spark" diagnosis on the fact that you can hear the fuel pump, or have you 100% verified that you aren't getting any spark by hooking up a plug and grounding to observe fire when turning key ? Reason I ask is that the ECU may not be getting power, in which case you would have spark and fuel pressure but it wouldn't start.

I understand that the existing holes that the rubber side pieces currently mount to, will accept the mounting bolt for the side of the 240 bumpers front and rear. My question is what do you use to keep the bumper from scratching the paint? MSA list "bumper end shims" rear http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBUC01B03 front http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBUC01A08 Is this what I need? I'm trying to get what I need together as I'm getting ready to send my 240 bumpers off to chrome and I'm timing it so that I can get these mounted while prepping for paint and be ready for final mount once paint is done. I don't want to be scratching shiat up in the process.

Personally, I liked the car better "before"

do you have a mighty vac ?

mine was running so lean it was undriveable. backfired through intake, stumbled, lean surged, etc.. Lean mixture will cause low vacuum. The problem is it is difficult to tell if the lean condition is caused by low vaccum, or low vaccum caused by lean condition. I can guarantee you there are no intake leaks on this car. You guys can disagree all you want about ecu drift, but after months of trying to find non existant intake leaks, messing with cam timing, ruling out every single possible cause of low vacuum, all that I was left with was ecu drift. Same as Sarah. We both replaced intake manifold gaskets, all vacuum lines, etc.. I personally used over 6 cans of carb cleaner and a whole bottle of propane trying to find leaks. I did a boost leak test, and used a smoke machine. And when all is said and done, including 2 different threads on zcar.com that lasted over 50 pages, the old school guys chime in and say that it's a well known issue with z mechanics, and the fix is to put a resistor inline with the water temp sensor. Once proper resistance was added to the water temp circuit, vacuum comes up to 18.5hg and the car runs perfect. If anyone feels strongly enough to differ, I'll offer the challenge for you to try your theories on my car. It's easy to be an arm chair mechanic, but you go pulling your hair out for 6 weeks trying to get a car that's firing on all cylinders, using new injectors, with proper fuel pressure, no intake leaks, and consistent compression across the board with a good leak down test running right and you might feel differently. Here is 6 weeks of my life unfolding http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/is_my_fuel_pressure_regulator_bad_893825.0.html http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/is_it_time_pull_head_894425.0.html In the second thread you will notice TonyD mentioning (in between his caustic rants) towards the end that this is a well known issue and the resistor is a common "field fix", More info on drift and the water temp sensor fix The Z Doctor recommends fix and mentions aging ECU http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/backfire_871219.msg2491779.html#msg2491779 If someone can prove 100% that there is another reason for mine and Sarahs car to run lean other than the conclusion we came too, I'll give you $500 Edit.. this whole problem was so frustrating to deal with, that I don't feel like reliving it. If you have a suggestion, read all 50+ pages of those two threads on the other forum before asking me "have you tried this", because I'm quite sure I've already tried it or tested it.

Megasquirt is a great way to go and very popular. I'm considering doing it even on my stock car just due to the fact that it is a much more modern, tuneable, and better EFI setup. IAT, intake air temp sensor. All you need to do is thread like a 3/8 whole in the intake manifold and screw in the sensor. Some people use the cold start valve hole and thread that. The most common is the GM sensor, and they are cheap. You can get one with your megasquirt. The megasquirt will primarily read MAP, and IAT sensors for input, and o2 can be configured for logging only, or closed loop operation. You don't even need a TPS if you don't want. I would SERIOUSLY consider going this route. Wouldn't cost you more than $400 tops. The only draw back is that MS is an open system, so there are dozens of methods to set it up. You can control ignition with it etc.. too .It can get a bit confusing at first. I'm still trying to learn about it before making my jump to it. Just keep it simple at first I would think. Do fuel only. Go to www.diyautotune.com for more info. Hybridz.org has a whole forum dedicated to EFI management using megasquirt. Just go lurk there to make sense of it. I am very familiar with EFI management on race motorcycles as I've used it for years. Basically once you have your system installed, you can build your map or fuel table in a 2 axis grid. On the bikes we log the data with the o2 sensor and just change the values in the cells until we hit the target air fuel ratio. It's simple. Bikes can't do closed loop though because they rev to fast and the wideband can't keep up. edit.. on the extensive mods, i was refering to more than the fuel injectors. If the PO didn't build the head and intake, and bump the compression some to go along with that big cam, it may not ever get where you want it to be.

Do you know what other engine mods were done ? Exhaust, intake, head, compression etc.. ? It has to be a whole plan. I think if the engine has been modified extensively, the stock injectors may help, but it won't get you where you need to be. If the only thing that has been done is to put the wrong AFM on, and a big cam with large injectors, I think you have to go back to stock all the way. It's not hard to put a cam on these motors. If it were me, I'd probably just give megasquirt a shot. I've done quite a bit of research. All you will need is the ecu, and a intake air temp sensor, and ideally an o2 sensor. The megasquirt has a map sensor built in the ecu. You would no longer need your AFM (you don't have the right one anyway). Tuning the MS system would not be difficult and there is a plethora of information out there as well as base maps to get you started. With the o2 sensor you can get it tuned perfectly in short order.

You will never get high vacuum from a radical cam, so the stock FPR will never get the correct fuel pressure. Additionally you have higher flow rate injectors, which will flow more fuel for the same pulse signal designed for the lower fuel rate injectors. It's a known fact that the bosch EFI system on these cars does not have any good method for tuning a modified motor. You will never get this car running right with that cam, those injectors, on the stock EFI. You have two options. Option A, put the stock cam and injectors in the car Option B, go to meqasquirt ECU and then you can tune whatever fuel rate you want. If you do some searches, especially over on zcar.com and hybridz, you will find that 100% for sure you can't tune the EFI to do what you are trying to do. This system is not a closed loop system and doesn't have any reliable means for adjusting air fuel ratio. It was specifically designed for the stock setup and doesn't have any significant tuning capability. And FWIW, on the stock motor you can remove all vacuum to the FPR so that you are getting 37psi on the rail, and the car doesn't run that rich. So I'm thinking that even if you try to get your current setup to half way run, mucking with the FPR isn't going to get you where you need to be.

If PO put Tokico's on already, why would you put the Tokico illumina's in? I would think that the HP's would be just fine unless you are taking it to the track? In any case, did he not put the dust boots back on? I'm not sure how you would see the gland nut threads unless there are no boots ? Take a pic. FWIW as Chris said, a few threads from the gland nut will show. Tokico's doc said .5-.15 inch or something is the gap that should be there. It actually tightens down on top of the strut to keep it from moving inside the tube.

:laugh: No, not nearly that bad. It looks good from 50ft. The car is in good shape really, just needs some paint and 3 small rust spots taken care of.

That's too bad. I'd like to have seen it. He's a real nice guy.

I pulled the 4 sp out of mine and put a clutch in it in one day. You could do it by yourself using a floor jack to support the tranny, but you will have to balance it a bit on the jack as you pull it loose. An extra set of hands sure is handy for this job. Especially when putting it back in. I had an extra set of hands, but when it came time to putting it back in, the extra set of hands wasn't pushing the same direction my mind wanted them to go.. I ended up just getting under it and man handling it back in place. After doing the complete suspension, I'd say the tranny is a breeze. You will have to drop the exhaust off the manifold, and take the drive shaft loose on the differential. Those are the hardest parts.

Has Billy signed up for the forum? I'll be sure to send you guys some pics. I found a chrome shop and I'll be sending both bumpers off in a couple of weeks for restoration. Getting much closer to paint job time

Good to know. I was considering the red line for a maintenance item, now I have second thoughts. Not leaking now, but I don't want to start.

Yeah, I've read about the red line. Sounds like it would be worth a shot eh? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/mtl/index.html