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Thanks Sarah. Yes, it's very inspiring. It's nice for a change after working on so many little issues to just get it running, then doing something that makes a really big difference. Very motivating, and it's a big PITA job out of the way ! One step closer to paint time..

Missed the 5sp part. No experience here. Hopefully it's not anything major.

Mine shifts smoothly. One thought, have you verified that your shifter bushings are in tact? Mine were completely disintegrated when I purchased the car and the shifter was really sloppy and hard to get in gear. Replacing those bushings did wonders.

eh.. my Z still isn't pretty yet. I'll post a pic or two later, it looks like a 33 year old Z (although garage kept mostly), but drives like a 2011

I've owned my 280 now for about 3 months and have slowly been working through various mechanical and getting the car in good running order. I've done all the usual stuff, brakes, clutch, tune ups, adjustments, etc.. and resolved a lean running issue that took me forever to work through. I still have a few a small list of minor maintenance items a couple more issues to resolve however I've just finished a big job and one that has made a huge difference. I went through the entire suspension on the car, replaced all the bushings with the MSA urethane kit, put Tokico HP struts in, and the Eibach spring kit. In addition I yanked off the old beat up exhaust that was on the car, which had some el cheapo muffler stick welded to the end of it, and replaced with the MSA Premium exhaust kit w/ Dynomax muffler. This job took me a couple of weekends, and a hour here and there throughout the work week. It was a big job for me I think, I would have rather replaced the clutch again.... Some of those bushings were a major PITA. The blues tech tips were a great resource however. Also the exhaust took me quite a bit of time as well since the PO had the old muffler cut off and replaced, and they cut or broke off the original exhaust hangers so I had to weld up some new ones. I had a good time doing that as soon as I figured out how I was going to fabricate them, as I have a brand new mig welder I was dying to use. I've wanted to weld for a long time and this car gave me the excuse to buy one and try it out. I finally got it back together last night and took it for a test drive. WOW!!!! :love:. This car feels brand new!! It's running so well and feels so tight. I can't believe the difference. I was worried a little that it would be too rough, or harsh, but not at all. It's firm and planted, but has just enough dampening to soak up the bumps. No more body roll, no more front end dive on the brakes, no more big vibration from wore out mustache bar bushings. It's just solid and smooth and responsive, and, and, etc... I was also worried about mixed reviews that the MSA exhaust would be too loud without a resonator. Not at all. It's effin perfect. I am effin ecstatic.. Just thought I'd share how much I'm pleased with these upgrades. Next up is a visit to a dyno for gas analysis to double check my butt dyno. I've got to say though, this car feels like it's running tops!!!

It would be cleaner to remove the ballast resistor and take the 12v directly to the coil. Caveat here though is that I'm not familiar how the ballast resistor is wired in on the 240 so I'm not sure if it can be removed easily. The main thing is that you just bypass it with whatever means necessary.

as Frank said. move the hot side (battery end) of the ballast resistor connection direct to the coil. The ballast resistor is simply a high wattage resistor that is inline with the 12v positive connection on the coil.

Thanks Chris. I'm assuming yours is lowered and the wheels are offset a bit? Looks close to rubbing? Do you think your tires look like they are being stretched out on a wider rim from the front or rear angle? Hard to tell on our pics. Thanks. FWIW, what I had in mind was getting some Konig Rewinds in 14x7, and just moving my 195/70-14's over from my stock steel wheels. That is of course if I can't find the factory alloys for a 78 to my liking.

My Z has a brand new set of Michelins on it, that I'd rather not replace. However I'm considering a 14x7 rim as an option. I know that the stock tire size should fit on the rim, but I'm wondering if it will look a bit off with the wider rim or if it will still look natural. Does anyone have this setup or a pic of a 14x7 rim with said tire ? Thanks, Eric

I asked for specifics on the fuel pressure, because the fuel pressure is a variable. Just because you have 35 doesn't mean its good. You could have a faulty fuel pressure regulator. The stock EFI is very sensitive to fuel pressure. Car not running, but fuel pump on should be around 36-38. Fuel pressure at idle should be 28-30. Fuel pressure at low vacuum like when you first stomp on the gas should be 36. If you are getting 35 PSI fuel pressure at idle with 18hg of vacuum, you will be running too rich and you might have a faulty FPR. Alternatively, fuel pressure at idle could be good, but when you idle up if fuel pressure drops that would indicate a partially blocked fuel line or pickup, etc.. that would starve the system of fuel under load. That being said, your new information regarding valve train needs to be addressed. Do what Sarah said, also after you get done with your top end cleaning, do a valve adjust with motor hot.

I may have some over riders for sale. I need to look at the condition of them from mine and see if they are worth selling. I'm pulling them off front and rear, as well as the optional bar that goes all the way across

Thanks. I may try this and just fab it up later if need be. I thought about asking you because I knew you had this exhaust from reading old threads. As always, nice to have your input fellow 78 owner

oh yeah, I almost forgot to comment on the seized bolt too. Get some PB blaster and start soaking it daily. When you attempt to remove the bolt, use an box end wrench and keep working it back and forth gently, don't muscle it. Be patient. I think you can get it loose without breaking anything. I got all my exhaust manifold bolts off with this method without breaking any of them, and they were very rusty and deteriorated. Do not use WD-40, it's more of a cleaner and not a penetrating oil.

I would be interested to see your data from your 90's experiments. Do you no longer have the info? Also, I know in mine and Fastwoman's case, we aren't trying to gain more performance from the stock EFI, really just trying to tune around the drift in the ECU and make it run as it did before. Any thoughts on that ?

I'm in process of installing the MSA premium exhaust, the stock manifold version. The previous installed exhaust which I believe to be mostly original, still had a rigid hanger off the back of the tranny that bolted on and used a clamp around the long tube. I'm wondering if I still need this mid point exhaust hanger on the new MSA exhaust. It's a larger diameter, so I will have to fabricate something. Additionally, previous owner exhaust job cut off the first muffler hanger location, although the rear most hanger tab on the frame rail by the rear apron still exist. I'll have to fab something up in that spot too. I guess I'm just looking for ideas as I'll finish installing this exhaust this weekend after I finish my suspension upgrades and would like to be well prepared with a plan.

I'm assuming that I'm that "someone else".. My plan is to take my car up and get the AFR checked with a gas analyzer before proceeding further. If it's close now with my band aid, I'll probably live with it for a while. Currently she's up on jack stands getting all new springs, struts, bushings, steering, and the MSA premium exhaust

I agree with Zed. My first though when I started reading your report is that you may have a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Try running the motor hot, then disconnecting the vacuum line like Zed said and see if fuel pressure rises. If it doesn't, the FPR is faulty which will cause your car to run a little rich. The only caveat here is that the cheap fuel pressure gauges are not always super accurate, so what you want to see is there is a difference between having vacuum on the FPR, and no vacuum. We know your vacuum is a bit low, so you might not end up at 30psi on the fuel pressure at idle, but it shouldn't be 36 regardless. When mine had low vacuum I was around 32. If you have a mighty vac, you can also connect the mighty vac to your FPR for test. Put 17hg of vacuum on it and observe change in fuel pressure. Also watch and make sure than the FPR holds that vacuum and doesn't leak down. The FPR is a common failure part. Second, I think Sarah might be jumping the gun a little on thinking the car is running too lean. She might be right, and we both have had the problem she is refering too, but you need to get the other issues fixed first. Also, with the AFM flap movement, even when the motor is running right, it will idle up just a hair when you move the flap a tiny bit to make it richer. As far as understanding the direction of the flap, just know that the AFM tells the ECU to add more fuel based on the air flow into the intake, so the more the flap opens, the richer it will run. Here is good info on the AFM http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html I would not attempt any adjustment of the AFM until you get the themostat fixed, and confirm 100% operation of your FPR.

My plan is the 370 with the Touring and Sport package. I'd love to test drive that synchro tranny out.

Let me know how the drive goes. I've wanted a new z since the 350 came out, and I've really wanted one when the 370 upped the ante. It will be my next daily driver, I have to finish wearing out my FJ Cruiser though, so I'm still about 2 years out.

gotcha. Still not sure it would work. In my case I think it's been age, and not current that is ruining the ecu. low miles, car sat a lot. There wasn't any current flowing through it. I've got a spare ecu. and I may still go megasquirt. If I don't I've still got a spare. If it ages and drifts anymore I'll just crank up the resistance

I'm not sure how that mod, assuming it would work to preserve the ECU pulse signal, would accomplish anything? The dropping resistors have not drifted, and not only limit the current, but also take 2/3 of the voltage on the signal. The drift is in the ECU, which is modifying the width of the injection pulse. It's a square wave. To correct our aging ECU, you would have to find out what in our ECU is causing the value to drift that is shortening the pulse width. I don't think it's a current issue. We don't need more current. We need a longer square or "on" state. If you have access to a oscope, that would be the place to start. Unfortunately I sold mine years ago as I figured with the world going all digital I wouldn't need it anymore.

It's a link. When you click on it it takes you to a parts fiche online that gives you the model years it fits.

well get a vacuum reading at idle. And what is your fuel pressure when you rev the motor up ?

Nice. Exactly what I was looking for on my low priority list

That is some very cool stuff. I'd love to get my hands on something that has been coated just to check it out.