cozye

That is going to look great. Congrats

Watch good for leaks. Mine was put in without sealant and it leaked around the bottom corners bad. The water would work around the glass in the bottom corners and the center. The installer fixed it however.

Sounds like its running lean. There are some lengthy threads on those issues, it's common

I think the consensus was that both cars where worth $1000-$1500 tops, so you are still too high. And while you are thinking you can sell parts and make a profit, remember that is a lot of work for little return. It will take you forever to sell those parts, pay shipping, eBay fees, then you still have to dispose of the car in the end. A lot of the parts you will have to find local buyers for, engine, tranny, etc...

I suspect there is nothing wrong with them. The reason why they didn't work when you replaced them is probably because that isnt the problem. If you want to be sure, just check per instruction in the fsm, it will take 10 minutes and help you move on. They rarely(never) go bad.

You didn't start anything. I think your posts have been right on, it was the other comments involving guns and cyclist being a danger to the roads that took it in the direction I hardly think defending cyclist against the prevalent attitude of hate by motorists is an over reacting. When you ride a bike for a while and feel the onslaught of raged motorists, using their 3500lb weapons against you even out in the middle of the country side just about every time you ride you will see the need to raise awareness. There is no reason to flip the bird to a cyclist riding on an old country road with zero traffic. Their is no reason to make comments about taking care of them with a 9mm. If anything that's over reacting.

I agree. I don't ride much in the city, but I use bright lights, strobing, even during the day. I ride as if I were a motorcycle, I don't creep up on cars at a stop light, I keep my place in line. I don't hug the edge of the road because I can't be seen, I ride In the middle of the lane unless a car is trying to pass me, then I will move over some if there is no oncoming cars (motorist will try and wedge there car between you and oncoming traffic and run you off the road). Basically I ride as courteous as possible, obeying all laws, while protecting myself as much as possible. There are just as many people in cars doing that and acting out on road rage, no one hates motorists and starts a campaign against them, well because everyone has a car so they would be included. It's the same people doing it in a car that go homeland get their bike out and act like an arse. And yes, I have a conceal carry license, and no, it's not a federal offense. As you know from riding a bike, it's very very stressful having a bunch of cars stacked up behind you. No one likes this, not even most cyclist. I'd be willing to bet those guys didn't know there was going to be a rally that day. Sometimes it might b best to pull over, but in a high traffic situation remember that the stream of cars never ends. The cyclist would be pulled over most of the time. Many times the cyclist is just trying to get off the road as quick as possible and the way to do that is keep riding. I agree with you except the passing on the right part. I don't do it. I hold my place in line as most of the people who I ride with

I wear cleats and clip out to stop. I wouldn't dream of resting on someone's car.

I'm an avid cyclist. I obey all traffic laws and ride just as I would on a motorcycle, usually in low traffic rural areas. I'm not quite sure why there is so much hate towards cyclist, sure there are idiots on bicycles just like there are Idiots in cars. I've had people intentionally run me off the road, throw stuff, yell, etc for no reasons, out in the middle of no where. I don't go running into every car driver on the road or stereotype that the world should be abolished of all mini van drivers. That is the same thing as hating all cyclist just because a few don't have respect. Comments like a 9mm taking care of it, or they are all a danger to the roads are uncalled for and straight up wizz me off. I'll defend the right to cycling to the end, and if any bone head wants to get in debate about it i'm more than willing to entertain all the usual one sided and idiotic arguments that cycle haters use. Why not show a little respect and courtesy, if someone is disobeying the law, then take your frustrations out on them. There is no reason to perpetuate the hate for all cyclist when many of us go to great length to be safe, be seen, and ride far away from the city. And fwiw, some of us pack riding too, so pull out that 9mm.

I've done exactly as Dave has described above. Get the tc rod kit, all my research showed that this was the only way to go.

He's on crack. Move on. The injectors cost $50 each tops, as low as $25 each. It's crashed. You can find a plethora of decent 280z's that are not crashed for $3000. If the windshield is busted I would suspect the car is tweaked as you have. I'd offer him $1500 for both.

You should use the fsm, it's free and readily available. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Have you downloaded the service manual?

^ true. I guessed 15 based on his statement that it's running well and there isn't much adjustment left on the distributor. If someone had the firing order wrong, there is no way it would be running well. My guess is that he was looking at a different mark on timing then, or its just wrong. #1 on the distributor is easy to find, most distributor caps have a line molded in on the side just under the plug wire. Should be towards the radiator side of it right by the latch

Put the timing light on#1. There is no telling where your timing is since you where timing it off #6. My guess is you are probably around 15

Use a wooden dowell rod in the spark plug hole, TDC is when that #1 piston is at its very top position. Get it close then mark the wooden dowel, then go a bit back and forth on the crank until its at the highest position. I usually take the fan off and use a wrench on the crank pulley nut to turn the motor

Oh, and the reason why you are running out of adjustment it of the distributor is you either have excessive shaft play, the plates on the inside need adjusting, or the old ignition components are worn. Mine was like that until I put in an optical ignition trigger and phased it properly, now it's dead on with plenty of range.

10 degrees comes from the factory service manual, page ET-7. Its also a sticker on the hood if it hasn't been taken off. There is no separate value for ca cars. Running it low is just masking other problems, you will get lower vacuum, less power, poor fuel consumption. Historically, tuners have advanced timing as far as they can without causing detonation or spark knock. Typically some advance will give you slightly more power. That being said, your timing marks could be wrong. Check TDC of the motor and verify that the pulley mark lines up with 0. Sometimes the pully slips, which would make the mark wrong. Next thing I would do would be to take the valve cover off, do a hot valve adjustment, and while you are in there check the valve timing by getting motor at TDC at inspecting the cam pulley mark. Instructions are in th fsm No idea what your grinding noise was, but it shouldn't do that obviously

Timing should be at 10 degrees minimum. A lot of people will advance it to 13 or so. Running it at 10 was lower than the previous years and beliefs done to lower emissions at idle.

Check cts sensor and correct operation of throttle position switch, then check fpr.

Very nice. How about some interior pics? I hope they haven't salted the roads up there yet. Don't drive that baby on the salt!

^^ this is a good idea. Much less wiring, will probably sound better. You could probably even mount the deck in a small box behind the seat.

Depends on the draw of the amp. A small amp you should be able to power off the acc circuit. You can go direct to the battery, but you will want to power the remote power wire to something off the ignition so it turns off the amp when you shut the car off. This is what I did for my powered sub. As far as hiding the wires, there are many options. If you can get the carpets up you should be able to run most of it along side the factory harness on the passenger side of the car in the floor near the inside of the rockers. It will become obvious when you dig into it. For the remote power source you can splice off the radio power wire or tap off one do the white ignition wires near the fuse box. Just get a voltmeter and verify it shuts off when the car does and that it's hit in the acc position

And technically, unless you want a sub you don't even need an amp. 22w head unit will fill the car with sound sufficiently. I put a sub in mine, but it's a powered sub so I still don't have a separate amp and it's plenty loud

You will have to take the carpet and vinyl up to run the wiring. You may be able to fish it under the vinyl, I believe it's glued down on your car. The scuff plate on the door jam will come up and allow you to run the wire in the corner. It's not that difficult really. Personally I think running your iPod straight off the amp is a bad idea. You will have no control over any audio settings, you will be amplifying from a source that was meant for headphones. It will probably sound like crap. You will have to control volume and song selection from the iPod, which will be cumbersome and dangerous while driving. You won't be able to adjust even the most basic of functions like fade, etc.. Just spend $200 more on a head unit that does iPod controls and be done with it. Take your stock stereo and put it away. It's all reversible and shouldn't affect value