cozye

^^ I agree. He could post a new pic of each every day and it would never get old.

Stellar attitude. It's really the wrong forum for your type. Go check out the hybrid z forum. You will find many answers there. There are so many coilover threads on there that you wont even have to ask, which is a good thing since your social skills will prevent you from getting many useful replies. Most enthusiast on this forum don't have "ill" 240's. This is more of a purist crowd with modest modifications at most, so the answer here would likely be lowering springs to drop it slightly.

Fuel should be pumping with the key in start position. Could be many things, I'd go through the troubleshooting section in the fsm. Could be something as simple as a relay. I wouldn't install the fuel pump yet, you may end up taking it back

You should start a 4th thread, one for each wheel

Yeah, post back up of it ships. I thought they were nla. I've ordered stuff online before only to get an email a few days later saying it isn't available.

Also, I'm not sure how far your black dragon fenders are. The oem ones still need some adjusting. I had to break the welds on the back support rib to get the right amount of curve, it's obvious that they just get them close then spot weld. Also the tabs for the inspection lid covers stuck out too far.

The dealer still had some last spring when I bought mine. You can talk them down to around $300 each. It's better to just get from the local dealer than to have to freight them

Depends on the brand and who you ask. I researched it. Tire shop also checked their data sheet. They said no problem. Some manufacturers also list 5.5-7, some 5.5-6.5 . Its not a problem Also keep in mind the 65 is shorter, higher revs, speedo off more, and hard to get.

195/70-14 works great on the 7" rim. They are within the 5.5-7 in rim recommendations. It's also the stock tire size Michelin harmony 195/70-14 on mine

I wouldn't be so sure.. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/128combo.html If that isn't enough, Carl Beck makes reference to the N33 on several older posts. Maybe it's a myth, but not necessarily.

The way to do it is to fill the old rubber side mount hole, then drill a hole directly behind the 240z side bumper tab. Use large washers and the bolt goes all the way through and is secured by a nut and lock washer on the inside. Be very careful, the hole on the right side will be very close to the fuel tank filler neck, and its a real PITA to get that bolt in that tight space and tightened up. I had to make the hole slightly larger than the bolt so that I could work the bolt in at an angle to get it through. The original mounts use a rubber pad/grommet that will keep the metal tab off the bodywork.

L28 is a 2.8 . N33 is the head type. You have to use a timing light to set the timing, it's on the crank pulley .

The Z may not be the safest thing on the road out there for sure, but it sure does crack me up when people say it's too fast! It's not a fast car, at all.. Most years of the Honda Civic have faster 0-60 and 1/4 mile times..http://www.zeroto60times.com/Honda-Vtech-0-60-mph-Times.html Obviously we are talking stock here, you an put a turbo or a supercharger on anything and make it reasonably quick.

When painting motorcycles in my garage over the winter, I rigged up a squirrel cage fan to some duct work, then used 2x12 boards to make a false door when my real door was open enough to allow some flex house to route the toxic fumes out while keeping the heat in. Get creative and you will find a method that works for you. Just brushing on some por 15 or doing some quick coat of self etch primer in a can to keep the flash rust off while you work isn't going to be that hard to deal with

Even water based epoxy is going to be toxic and you will need to ventilate. I did quite a bit of work during the winter in my attached garage. Just use a good respirator, a floor fan, and crack your garage door. Then coat in small sections, go back inside and let it ventilate for an hour. Then close your garage door and use a small heater like Kerosene or ceramic electric to bring the temp back up. POR 15 is the way to go. A good charcoal based respirator mask will allow you to breath safely even to the point that the area becomes overwhelming with fumes. I've had my eyes watering in a paint booth with clear coat before but breathing in my mask I couldn't smell a thing.

Are you sure it's a fuel delivery issue ? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the car? How do you know it's not electrical, or ignition related ? Did you put an inline "pre" fuel filter in just after the fuel pump? You can get a clear fuel filter and a lot of guys just put these in to see if they get rust since it can easily be verified visually. Have you tried squirting ether in the intake while it's broken ? Verified spark ?

I'm not really sure how you can come away from this thread ready to gas weld on a car. Everyone is saying Mig is the easiest most cost affective way to weld on car, or any steel project for that matter. Tig would be a possibility but is much more difficult to master. Mig makes very nice welds. I mean this in the nicest possible way, but if you take a torch to weld on that car you are going to F&*k it up, guaranteed. It's way to hot, no one on the planet does this, and for good reason. If you have limited funds and just want an oxy-acetyline setup for some other reason, then use pop rivets and epoxy on the car. A mig is cheap, and there probably isn't anything you are wanting to do for any kind of welding project that you can do with mig. The first time you hit the quarter panel with a torch for more than 5 milliseconds, its going to warp the **** out of the panel and thats if you get lucky and don't burn a hole through it. Even with a mig, shielding gas, and an air hose to keep it cool you still have to do series of tack welds spaced apart to keep the surrounding metal cool. Trying to run a bead even .5" long will warp it instantly on 22 gauge sheet metal. Do a youtube search for "welding sheet metal", you will find 99% of the time they are using a MIG and many examples to show the process.

No, it didn't come with that radio. The hitachi fm with electric antenna button was the stock radio

It's nice, but I wouldnt say it's exceptional. Mine is just as nice or maybe even nicer. I'm glad it's bidding up well. Looks like they didn't repaint the hatch jam. Rear bumper looks rusted through on the bottom by the exhaust. Lots of spray bomb on the underside, not that it's necessarily a bad thing, just saying. I think the car is "well represented"

I would go with the 240. I have a nice 280 and I'm happy with it, however the engine bay is ugly, the efi is rudimentary, finicky, and can be a real pita. I know it well at this point, but a nice 240 is so much simpler and the engine looks so much better when cleaned up. They are more desirable, easier to sell, and easier to get parts for. You will never find those bumper ends in the 240 and doing a bumper conversion is a pita(I've done it) Knowing what I know now, I would have gone the 240 route

I've run several spools of wire through my eastwood 135 with no problems. It welds just fine for the home shop. I've welded plenty of angle and channel with it as well. I've not run into any duty cycle issues with it. It also has the variable voltage control too, really easy to fine tune your heat on sheet metal. None of the other 110 welders have a variable voltage adjustment, except the miller I think. All the cheap migs had like 5-8 clicks for the control instead of a linear adjustment. This is the reason why a lot of "pro" welders knock the 110 migs.. Just look at the reviews on the thing. There are guys saying it welds as good as the $2000 miller on their truck! Anyone looking for a home shop mig would be crazy not to look at this welder. http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html

Check out the Eastwood mig and TIG welders. Very happy with mine and they get great reviews. Priced well

My oil sending unit was leaking just a tad, prior to it leaking the gauge read low when running, but would come up some with higher revs. I replaced the sending unit and it now reads much higher.

There is no EPROM chip to program

Running lean is quite common for the 280. There are plethora of causes. Download the fsm and start a thorough check of the efi system. You can do most of it with a simple ohm meter. Not hard. Once that's done do a search for a thread "purrs like a kitten" there are several of us here including fast woman who have gone to hell and back with the fuel injection on this car. You will get there, it just takes patience and thorough troubleshooting.