cozye

Thats the going rate for standard brand injectors. The brand doesn't have a great reputation, mixed results. Some people don't have any problems, others have had bad ones right out of the box.

Just make sure you do a thorough diagnostic and eliminate any obvious things like vacuum leaks, fuel pressure issues, water temp sensors, etc. before going with the lean condition fixes. If you richen up your fuel mixture without doing the due diligence first, you could just mask the real problem (i.e vacuum or intake leak, etc.) I also had the lean condition, spent 6 months troubleshooting and trying to find a cause before I resorted to the same solution fast woman documents. I have quite a lengthy thread over on zcar.com that documented it.

I would also read the SEM instructions as they are very helpful in determining what kind of plastic it is and what prep you should do. I used the SEM on my whole interior, but there were a couple of different plastics used, and the standard acetone type prep didn't work on those pieces, the dye wouldn't impregnate like it did in the others. There is a different spray on prep that works with the other type of plastic. You can download the PDF's on east wood's website. I'm sure the prep procedure would be common among many brands of dye.

On the 280, I just peeled off the rest of the film so that the strips are now grey, but the wood grain still remained. It's not noticeable and looks better than the half peeled off chrome before.

I did quite a bit of research on this myself and came across quite a few people recommending vasaline. It is a petroleum product, same as the dash. No solvents or harsh detergents. My dash is original and crack free. I applied with a clean rag, dabbed a little and rubbed in in. Working a small area at a time until it was completely rubbed in. I did this in a couple of coats with a few days in between. The oiliness went away after a day or two, the dash looks new and has a nice sheen to it but not glossy. The black is restored. The plastic softened up a touch like the elasticity was restored. I'm very pleased with the results. I haven't touched it in 2 months and it still looks great, not oily to the touch. I dont see any downsides

I did the same on the dash emblem as well.

Very cool.

Yeah, sounds like fuel delivery issue to me as well.

Oh, I'd love to have this car. You did a great job on it. Timing is bad for me since I just picked up the 370.

Sealant goes in the glass channel. Not in the body channel. Rope goes on the outside of the glass to pull it around the body. The windshield is basically fully assembled with sealant and trim before it's installed. On the sealant question, mine leaked big time with no sealant. Water would sit on the outside of the glass and level out on the inside of the glass working it's way around the glass. Even washing the car would have water sitting o. The dash. Brand new seal and windshield. Glass man used a windshield stick to pry up edge and squirt a bead of sealant around it and that fixed it. Also, there is a specific kind of sealant they use for this. He gave me a tube of it and I can take a pic of it if you need

best thing to do is take it all apart, fenders, cowl, hood, etc.. Get all metal cleaned up and rust free, prime and paint. I think you will find a lot of rust and some problems around the bottom of the fenders. There is a pocket in there that is notorious for picking up dirt, leaves, moisture and RUST

You could write a book on painting cars and it would barely answer your questions. Painting the engine bay is no different than painting the outside of the car. You prep it the same, use the same stuff, and use the same method. On the Z, you would normally use the same color paint as well, so whatever you are doing for the outside base/clear maybe, you would use on the engine bay. If you are just using a 1 stage paint, or going all black in the engine bay you would use an enamel most likely. Best thing to do is talk to your local paint shop on what you would need. Each paint process has it's own chemicals, cleaners, reducers, hardeners, etc.. A good gun is going to cost you $400 at least. Sata and Devilbiss are the two most popular that I know of. I've used a Sata quite a bit, it's a real nice gun. Most pro painters will use separate guns for primer, base, and clear. You can get by with one but you've got to make sure you take it apart and clean it real well between applications.

I would think a problem with the oil rings if it's smoking on decal. OP says new valve guide seals. Oil ring could be the wrong tension or something.

I painted mine black. They disappeared

I did this conversion on a 280. It can be done, but you will likely have to make your own brackets. No big deal if you can weld. Took me about a day to fit them and make the brackets.

Took it apart last night, bearing is shot. I picked up the $38 imperial brand. Seems like it will do the job just fine and is an exact fit. While it was off I cleaned up my fan blades, re zinc plated and yellow chromates the nuts and belt pulley housing.

I have had good luck with beck arnley in the past. Not quite sure why theirs is double what the other brands are on this one. You think I could fix my current one ?

Well I suppose not many end up replacing this. I'll just go the cheap route then unless someone chimes in otherwise

They are both fun in different ways, obviously the 370 has way more performance, but the 280 has that nostalgic mechanical sports car feel. I think I'll have my cake and eat it too, .

Any reason why I should splurge on the $80 Beck/Arnley fan clutch vs. the $35 versions that are available at the local parts house or on rock auto ? My fan clutch locked up, so I'll need to replace it. Nothing like hearing a big fan running at 3000 rpms to suck down your mpg and steal that power.

Yep. The anniversary edition comes with the sport and touring package. It was a good find for sure. You will love your test drive

Thanks guys. I'm loving it. It is a very nice car. Between this and the 280 I'll have plenty of options on the nice days to take a break from the daily driver. I plan on having this #695 of 1000 for a long time. Another pic after some quality bath time

Just picked it up tonight. 40th anniversary, bought from a guy up the road. 2300 miles, has never seen wet pavement It will make good company for the 280 in the garage!

Post pics. $6k sounds a bit high to me for a car with a bad paint job. No telling whats under it. Even in the south the cars rust. FWIW, I paid $2300 for my 78 280z. I needed some mechanical work and paint, was a fairly solid car like you described, however that 99% rust free turned into about 85% rust free once you take a grinder to it. Mine was the original paint so there wasn't anything being covered up. Make sure you check for rust bubbling up under the undercoating right behind the front wheels shock towers. Look at the frame rails. Use a magnet to check for filler around the bottom of the rear quarter panels, in front of the rear wheels on the bottom of the rocker, and behind the front wheels on the front fenders.

Unhooking the fpr makes the car run richer, that is the reason it seems to run better. You have some other issue going on and adding more fuel masks it. The sea foam will not harm your fpr or anything else