cozye

Yes, the screws were very tight on mine as well, however the adjustment screw was very easy to turn once I discovered it under that rubber plug. I did eventually dissasemble mine and verified that my diaphragm was in good shape. Look right on the bottom of the thing for that rubber plug, right in the center. You might get lucky

Ok. You're crazy

Yeah, I know deleting wouldn't resolve it. Properly adjusting would. There is a screw hidden under a rubber cover on the bottom of it. If you disconnect the wire to simulate going over 10 mph, then rev the car by hand, you can adjust it by ear until the rpm drop is gradual. The BCDD is letting air bypass in as you described. Not sure it would work for the ac idea though

You guys need to check into the BCDD operation. When functioning correctly, it eases the throttle down and it eliminates the popping on deceleration. Fortunately mine works well, although I did have to adjust it some to keep the motor from hanging at higher rpms when stopping. My car does not have the dashpot, I'm not sure if it ever did although the bracket for it is there. I think if you have a working BCDD, both your problems might be solved. If it isn't working or the diaphragm in it is busted then part is nla and the common workaround is to delete it.

The gold one is mine

Stay with carbs!

We are staying in hilton head for a couple nights. Almost there. Will head over to the westin on Tuesday

The wood wedge isn't only to keep the chain up, it's also to keep the tensioner pushed back to keep the chain from tightening up on you. If you didn't make the wedge long enough and wedge it between the tensioner, I'm not sure you won't have to pull the timing cover off. It's not the end of the end of the world. A little late, but I made the timing chain tool out of thick plexiglass, in a long wedge similar to the factory tool. It worked for me when I adjusted my cam sprocket.

link to old thread that has useful information http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?38752-Are-more-280-owners-noticing-difficult-restart-when-engine-is-hot&highlight=hot+start+issue Link to thread where ZMOW and another well known z car member (that I'm not a fan of personally) discuss theories. I like Zman's post #8. It makes a lot of sense. He works on a LOT of customer, street driven Z cars, so he has the experience. I've talked to him previously about other Z stuff and he's a hell of a nice guy and very helpful. http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/vapor_lock%20_heat_soak%20_voodoo%20_whatever_you_wanna_call_it_%20%20%20_883144.0.html

Blue, did this work for you? What are you going to use for an FPR ? I have more information. I stayed up late last night digging through old threads etc.. It appears to me that a few years ago, the increased ethanol used in fuel along with reformulated gas lowered the boiling point enough that 280z owners started having heat soak issues. Lots of old owners who had cars running for years with no issue, suddenly started having hot start issues. I looked up the boiling points on gasoline, and my quick searches did not yield definitive hard facts but I did find that ethanol definitely lowers the boiling point. I also found that winter gas has a much lower boiling point than summer gas. My car still had winter gas in it, since I had a full tank early this spring and it's been getting painted since. I filled up this morning and drove it running errands, is not as hot today but I did not have any hot start issues today. I can't fathom that these cars were boiling fuel on the rail when new. The only thing that has changed since the mid 70's is the gas formula. I wonder what fuel additives could be used to raise the boiling point ? Zman of washington in a thread suggested putting a quart of oil in the gas. I'm not a fan of that idea, although he is very knowledgable. This theory works for me. I don't think there is anything mechanically wrong with my car, and I know for a fact that the fuel rail gets extremely hot and fuel is boiling. I think I may try several approaches. I will find a way to either replace the fuel rail, or preferably insulate the one I have. I will install a 170 degree thermostat. I will look into fuel additives and see if there is anything that will raise the boiling point. Another idea is to scrounge up a ZX injector fan and install it.

It's the original fuel pump, however the check valve is new. I just installed it hoping it would fix the problem. The check valve prevents back flow of fuel through the fuel pump, so that rules out the fuel pump no o2 sensor. It's a plain old 280z, with regular L-Jet fuel injection. As dumb as box of rocks. Well, that's interesting that yours still doesn't hold pressure. I think you might have missed the first line of my post. I've replaced the injectors with brand new ones, from MSA. The expensive ones. No help. I replaced the cold start valve, it was leaking when hot, not now. I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator, one from rock auto. Don't remember the name. Basically I've replaced the entire fuel system minus the actual rail, and the fuel pump itself. Gas is definitely boiling on the rail. No doubt about it. Where did you get this Aeromotive FPR? Where did you find out about their high flow leak down design ? I could put a mighty vac on the FPR after driving it and relieve the pressure quick. Thats a good idea. I've searched and searched on this topic in the past trying to solve it. The injector replacement and the check valve replacement I just did yesterday was my last hope. I just hadn't had the chance to look into it

I think the issue could be solved if I found the source of leaking fuel pressure, but since I've replaced every source of leaking fuel I can think of, I'm out of ideas.

No. What would you suggest doing that with? By the time a fan would cool them down, it would be cool enough to start anyway. I suppose I could use a block of ice. If you let the car sit for 20 minutes with the hood open, it's fine.

On my EFI 280z, I've replaced a leaky cold start valve, all injectors, fuel pressure regulator, and check valve. all hoses are good and I can't find a leak anywhere. However, it takes about 6 hours for my fuel pressure to leak down and I still can't get rid of my "hot start" vapor lock issue. The car will start, but air in the fuel lines and missing on a few cylinders for a few minutes until it all smooths out. I'd love to solve this issue, but short of injector fans and dry ice, I'm not sure whats left to do. The car runs at a normal temp, 180-190 or so. A little cooler maybe on the interstate. Stop for 10 minutes on the hot day, and it will be a rough start.

Absolutely stunning!!

The SEM is real close to the new vinyl, it is a shade lighter than the 280z original color, closer to the 240z off white color. The 280 off white in my car, every piece was different a little so it wasn't a big deal to me. It's all a closer match now, except the headliner is a touch darker but it looks fine. I would get the 240z white plastic rivets instead of the 280, they will match the SEM better.

Because detroit doesn't have any diesels developed for passenger cars, only big trucks. It would take them years to be able to compete with VW, Toyota, Mercedes, BMW, etc.. Arguments can be made that todays diesel is cleaner than gasoline. The co2 emissions are significantly lower than gasoline. The sulfur is higher, yes, but the sulfur content today is 50x lower in diesel than it was 10 years ago. You trade one emission for another. Points can be made either way. The other factor to consider is that you burn considerably less fuel and put out less emissions over all per mile with diesel. The EU diesel standards are pretty strict, we should adopt those like the rest of the world. That would give us a plethora of economical cars to choose from and provide a lot more competitive atmosphere

I think Detriot is in bed with the EPA to make our emissions standards impossible for diesel imports. Every other non US auto maker offers diesel cars and trucks over the entire world. They don't import them to the US because they don't meet our emissions standards. Germany has stricter emissions standards than we do, yet diesels are the car of choice over there. It's just a big lobby to keep the US car makers stuck on petro and have a leg up on the competition. They did the same thing with motorcycles back in the late 70's and early 80's to keep Harley Davidson selling motorcycles by using import tarrifs on certain size asian bikes.

The paint shop just factory matched the paint code 517.

New seat foam, seat covers, new carpet, and lots of SEM vinyl dye will do wonders

My wife and I will be there. Plan on driving the newly resurrected 280 on the 12 hour journey from KY

Thanks for the compliments everyone. Here is a pic of the interior. got the stereo installed as well. I couldnt wait to drive it to work today, and ended up having to drive home in a rain storm, sucks I know, but it's a driver and I needed to get over it.. It's coming along..

Well I've got about 90% of the interior back in it. Got the stereo installed . Took it for a quick test drive and the dang front wheels aren't balanced right. Took them off and shoved them in the car to get rebalanced. Thanks. Engine bay isn't detailed yet. It's been washed a couple of times, but I need to hit it with a scrub brush, polish my valve cover, and clean up a few bits.

Sounds good! 12 teeth off with the spring tighter (lean) or looser (rich) ? I'm assuming rich since your mpg is low

Thanks. The bumpers were a LOT of work. Sure did