cozye

Thanks for the info. I've actually emailed those guys. It's $1200 now for a set after shipping.

240 bumpers. Even good straight ones will still cost me a minimum of $600 to rechrome apparently. I reckon its just the cost of doing business..

update on the nu-chrome. They got my bumpers, the base estimate was low for the work needed to be done. Due to how bent up my bumpers are and the holes that need to be filed, along with the front bumper having a couple rust through spots, it's going to be $1000 total, after shipping, tax, labor, hazardous materials fee, etc.. That's quite a bit more than I was expecting. I called denver bumper. They quoted $500 as a base price, told me that shipping would be extra, and that did not include filling holes or straightening. They said that price was based on a pair of clean bumpers. They also said if there was rust through, they may not even be able to repair them. I went on and gave nuchrome approval. ETA is 8 weeks. They assured me it would be a very good job. We shall see. I'm very tempted to scrap the whole idea and search for clean bumpers, but given the fact that I can't paint my car until I get some bumpers (still need to drill the quarter panel hole and do final fit), I've opted to throw more money out the door to just get it over with and move on. I figure best case scenario I'd still have $600-700 in a set of high quality bumpers.

I like this site better anyway. While I've personally not really had an issue with zcar, the culture on that site is not to my liking. This site however I find welcoming and very mature.

You are fine. Longer ones go in the rear. when you lower the car do it gradually and make sure the front springs seat properly. It will be correct. I had the same worries when I did this a couple months ago.

Still leaking slightly. I give. I'll drive it for a while and see how it goes. I still have the seal that just came out and can see no reason why it leaked. The new one did have a smear of lithium grease in the grove between the lips where the crank rides (as suggested by the FSM for installation), I thought maybe while that grease was in there it was allowing oil to seep out. It shouldn't be that difficult. This should be a simple thing.. sigh.

eastwood makes a killer mig welder for $299

The sending unit does not have to come out of the tank. Just unplug the electrical connections from under the access cover in the trunk prior to lowering the tank. However if you are going to have the tank cleaned out, you will have to remove the sending unit at some point.

Very interesting. Good info.

last time I pulled the tranny, I just used strength and no jack. The jack gets in the way and makes it harder I think. I'm strong enough that I can pull the transmission up from over my head while laying on my back, lift it on my chest and just "bench" it up into place. Being able to have both hands on it while directly under it makes it a lot easier to line up and get that shaft to slide in. First time I did it with a jack I fought it for 30 minutes getting it angled right etc.. and eventually just gave up on the jack and muscled it into place. The transmission is light enough that if you have an extra set of hands to help lift, it shouldn't be a big issue to put into place.

I would suspect not much unless it's vaporizing. Sarah can chime in the facts I'm sure since she is a scientist. I'm pretty sure the expansion of liquids is nominal when getting hot unless you reach a boil. go put a cup of water in the microwave for 1 minute and see if its still a cup.

She said the pressure was going up, not the temperature. Fuel pressure goes up when it starts to boil.

That pic looks like it is opening more. Give it a shot. Zed, read my previous post to her. Mine was closing consistently, however it was not opening far enough to get proper air on warm up, would idle very low until ECU dropped the cold start enrichment. I could pull a vacuum line off and the idle would kick up 300 rpms. New AR fixed it and now idles perfectly on warm up. I did try cleaning mine but it didn't work.

very nice. I'm green with envy.

Jury is still out on mine. It did leak a little on my long test drive, but I had a smear of lithium grease on it that may have allowed a little to seep out until it wore off. I haven't been able to drive for over a week. I'll probably get to drive it some later this week though.

I purchased Beck/Arnley brand from Rock Auto. I've purchased several other parts of the Beck Arnley brand, and I've been pleased. Fit and quality appeared to be top notch. Price and shipping were great. I buy a lot of stuff from MSA too, but I've been sourcing the more common maintenance items from Rock Auto.

It's easier to lift the tank while someone guides the hose on the filler neck, IMO. I had the hose connected to the tank already.

never been that fast in a car other than a few 130-140 mph sprints in my old camaro's. I regularly visit 160+ on my motorcycles on the race track. I race WERA.

mine was idling about 500-600rpm cold. It would barely idle without staling. I'm sure a new one will take care of your fast idle. But again, I can't stress enough that if it is closing it has absolutely no affect on how your car is running once warm. You won't be able to get it to open further. Just plan on getting a new one. I ended up getting a nissan oem unit from MSA. Rock auto said there's was on back order.

I bought one from rock auto. The green one. works fine.

his heater control vacuum source is probably plugged directly into the manifold, or the vacuum canister is directly connected to it. That's what I have had to do since magnet valves are broken and NLA.

no vacuum on EGR at idle as you discovered. I hook up to either FPR vacuum line with a T, or the brake booster.

If you really want to know about the air regulator, I suspect it's not opening fully which is why you get low idle. Mine was doing this as well. I pulled the air regulator off and looked through the opening. It was open only very slightly, and not 1/3 of the way like the manual shows. I tried using carb cleaner to clean it, the shutter would move freely with a screw driver. It did close when the car warmed up and my idle would eventually climb to 800. I didn't mind spending $100 on a new one and once I got the rest of the car running good I went on and purchased the new one. I noticed right away that the shutter was open much further on the new one. Now my car idles at 1300 rpm cold and goes down when warm like it's supposed to. I suspect the spring on the inside weakens with age and doesn't open the shutter all the way. I figured it wasn't getting enough air because when the car was cold, I could pull a vacuum line off to introduce more unmetered air and the idle speed would increase which told me it wasn't getting enough air for the fuel that was being metered.

ignore the air bypass as long as its closing when hot for now. It won't help your overall tuning issue. Test the water temp sensor hot, when the car is 180 degrees or so. That's when you will really be able to tell if it is functioning correctly or not. If it's off what the book says by 200 ohms at that point, it needs replacing IMO. Sorry, I haven't had a chance to test my AFM again for you. I will try this weekend. Been way too busy. Remind me again what pins you are testing on the AFM for those values?

It's NLA. It's called the BCDD (Boost controlled deceleration device) Operation is explained in FSM, EC page 5. If the diaphragm tears, it only leaks if the switch is open under deceleration more than likely. You can use some jb weld and plug the hole in the bottom of the throttle body to defeat it. The side affect is sometimes you have slight popping after fire in exhaust when decelerating. Most people leave it connected as long as it's operational, then plug it up when it goes bad.