Evil Turkey

Aparently the video was removed from youtube. Anyone knows what's the name of the documentary? I watched it when it was there and there's some footage I'd like to see again.

Indeed, it does look great! Mike, sorry about my scepticism, I had never heard of the paint you mentioned but in the pictures you and Bonzi showed, it does look very clean! If I can find someone who sells this paint here in Canada, I might give it a try. Thanks for the link.

Whatever color they are, one thing is for sure: It's on a Z so it deserves to be painted with REAL paint and not some cheap Krylon spray can...

I think some of you could be "interested" in this: http://smokingwheels.lefora.com/ It's his forum... If you want to get mindf***ed, just go ahead and read some of it: There's some really fun stuff, I promise! I'm no expert in engine tuning or anything but even I can smell BS. If those numbers were to be true, that would make him an absolute genius but up to now it's a lot of talk and very little proof (with a lot of nonsense here and there). OOOORRRRR... maybe he's really on to something and we all lack the skills to understand his work :stupid:

Yup... I know we're not here to criticize the choice of engine but I've always been against V8 swaps in Z's... I think it's just a cheap tactic (and I don't mean inexpensive, either ) to gain power the "fast and easy" way. Not only it looks and sounds inapropriate in a Z (my opinion) but it also means a lot more stress on the body. I love the Inline 6: I think it sounds great, gives decent power, has good torque AND it's a perfectly balanced engine! It just FEELS RIGHT. If you can afford to do a V8 conversion, why not use that cash and skills to Make the most out of your L6? Just my 2 cents...

For those who may be interested in another way to "freeze" the tar, I just tried a new method: I found a few cans of "duster" gas that are used to clean PC's. This gas is also called something 134a, which also happens to be the gas some A/C systems use (I think). Anyway, this gas is sold for around 5$/can in computer shops and when used normally, it just blows compressed air BUT: If you turn the can upside down, the gas comes out in it's liquid form (VERY cold!) just blow the liquid on the tar and watch it freeze and crack instantly! It's easier to aim than using dry ice, safer and it works pretty well!

Being from up north, I would say that it seems like a project worth getting into, but only because up here, every Z costs more and is in worse shape. However, since you're from TX, I'm pretty sure you can find a better one if you look a bit more. At least for 500$, it seems like a good parts car if things don't work out well.

I'm really not very knowledgable about this kind of stuff but other than the rust in the fuel tank/fuel filter issue, couldn't it be an issue with the valve timing/ valve clearance?

Thanks geezer, that just pretty much answered my question. The only thing I can't figure out is: Why did you need a battery to provide a spark?

Well, I'm still thinking about it but the major "difficulty" I have is that it dosen't have a battery and that's why I have no idea what to do

Hi, As you have guessed, this thread has nothing to do with Z's. This is another (very small) project I have. Basically, I have an enduro bike that I'm trying to make street legal/useable at night. So, at the moment, it has no light and no battery (it's a kick-start) so my question is: How/where do I connect the headlight (and any other electric device) in order to get power to them? My biggest weakness is electricity and related stuff so sorry if it's really obvious, I just don't want to screw anything. At the moment, I have the headlight, flasher and taillight rigged and ready to install with on/off switches. Great, but... what now? Thanks! EDIT: in case this can help, this particular bike (it's a honda CRF100F) has no other "electrical" apparatus other than the alternator and related parts. (it's carbureted, kick-start with no lights). I thought about somehow rigging it to the distributor (I think that's what you call it in english) but I guess that wouldn't work since it's, well, a *distributor*... Then, I thought that if I could somehow "split" the electricity going to the distributor before it enters but I foresee the problems that can come out of this setup. EDIT 2: I was also thinking about the alternator. (same idea as above) Any thoughts, ideas?

mmmhhh... that's not a bad idea, wish I had thought of it when I took all of that tar off!

Wow.... is someone really willing to pay OVER 10k for a Z in this shape? I understand the rarity of the first series Z's but this seems to be pushing it. A lot of little details mentioned above really makes me wonder... I declare shenanigans! (Or the world has become even crazier than it was)

I do remember this kind of story happened to my father many years ago. It wasn't a vintage plate or anything but it was on his MGB roadster. The car was parked in the street at night while we were at a restaurant and the PLATE was stolen... Never figured out WHY anyone would want to do that (if they just wanted to steal a plate, they could have taken any other) but I guess it was just an idiot who was jealous of a nice car and wanted to make trouble (At least he didn't scratch the paint, it had been freshly redone at the time) Rare cars tend to get more attention... both good and bad... Never underestimate how stupid some people can get if they are "jealous" of your car!

For what it's worth... http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Grip_Motorsports A quick google search would lead to believe they are legit... my OPINION is that it does look a bit shady, but if you can't buy from a more reputable seller, give it a try. if you pay with paypal, there isn't much that can go wrong, really.