Evil Turkey

Aparently the video was removed from youtube. Anyone knows what's the name of the documentary? I watched it when it was there and there's some footage I'd like to see again.

Indeed, it does look great! Mike, sorry about my scepticism, I had never heard of the paint you mentioned but in the pictures you and Bonzi showed, it does look very clean! If I can find someone who sells this paint here in Canada, I might give it a try. Thanks for the link.

Whatever color they are, one thing is for sure: It's on a Z so it deserves to be painted with REAL paint and not some cheap Krylon spray can...

I think some of you could be "interested" in this: http://smokingwheels.lefora.com/ It's his forum... If you want to get mindf***ed, just go ahead and read some of it: There's some really fun stuff, I promise! I'm no expert in engine tuning or anything but even I can smell BS. If those numbers were to be true, that would make him an absolute genius but up to now it's a lot of talk and very little proof (with a lot of nonsense here and there). OOOORRRRR... maybe he's really on to something and we all lack the skills to understand his work :stupid:

Yup... I know we're not here to criticize the choice of engine but I've always been against V8 swaps in Z's... I think it's just a cheap tactic (and I don't mean inexpensive, either ) to gain power the "fast and easy" way. Not only it looks and sounds inapropriate in a Z (my opinion) but it also means a lot more stress on the body. I love the Inline 6: I think it sounds great, gives decent power, has good torque AND it's a perfectly balanced engine! It just FEELS RIGHT. If you can afford to do a V8 conversion, why not use that cash and skills to Make the most out of your L6? Just my 2 cents...

For those who may be interested in another way to "freeze" the tar, I just tried a new method: I found a few cans of "duster" gas that are used to clean PC's. This gas is also called something 134a, which also happens to be the gas some A/C systems use (I think). Anyway, this gas is sold for around 5$/can in computer shops and when used normally, it just blows compressed air BUT: If you turn the can upside down, the gas comes out in it's liquid form (VERY cold!) just blow the liquid on the tar and watch it freeze and crack instantly! It's easier to aim than using dry ice, safer and it works pretty well!

Being from up north, I would say that it seems like a project worth getting into, but only because up here, every Z costs more and is in worse shape. However, since you're from TX, I'm pretty sure you can find a better one if you look a bit more. At least for 500$, it seems like a good parts car if things don't work out well.

I'm really not very knowledgable about this kind of stuff but other than the rust in the fuel tank/fuel filter issue, couldn't it be an issue with the valve timing/ valve clearance?

Thanks geezer, that just pretty much answered my question. The only thing I can't figure out is: Why did you need a battery to provide a spark?

Well, I'm still thinking about it but the major "difficulty" I have is that it dosen't have a battery and that's why I have no idea what to do

Hi, As you have guessed, this thread has nothing to do with Z's. This is another (very small) project I have. Basically, I have an enduro bike that I'm trying to make street legal/useable at night. So, at the moment, it has no light and no battery (it's a kick-start) so my question is: How/where do I connect the headlight (and any other electric device) in order to get power to them? My biggest weakness is electricity and related stuff so sorry if it's really obvious, I just don't want to screw anything. At the moment, I have the headlight, flasher and taillight rigged and ready to install with on/off switches. Great, but... what now? Thanks! EDIT: in case this can help, this particular bike (it's a honda CRF100F) has no other "electrical" apparatus other than the alternator and related parts. (it's carbureted, kick-start with no lights). I thought about somehow rigging it to the distributor (I think that's what you call it in english) but I guess that wouldn't work since it's, well, a *distributor*... Then, I thought that if I could somehow "split" the electricity going to the distributor before it enters but I foresee the problems that can come out of this setup. EDIT 2: I was also thinking about the alternator. (same idea as above) Any thoughts, ideas?

mmmhhh... that's not a bad idea, wish I had thought of it when I took all of that tar off!

Wow.... is someone really willing to pay OVER 10k for a Z in this shape? I understand the rarity of the first series Z's but this seems to be pushing it. A lot of little details mentioned above really makes me wonder... I declare shenanigans! (Or the world has become even crazier than it was)

I do remember this kind of story happened to my father many years ago. It wasn't a vintage plate or anything but it was on his MGB roadster. The car was parked in the street at night while we were at a restaurant and the PLATE was stolen... Never figured out WHY anyone would want to do that (if they just wanted to steal a plate, they could have taken any other) but I guess it was just an idiot who was jealous of a nice car and wanted to make trouble (At least he didn't scratch the paint, it had been freshly redone at the time) Rare cars tend to get more attention... both good and bad... Never underestimate how stupid some people can get if they are "jealous" of your car!

For what it's worth... http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Grip_Motorsports A quick google search would lead to believe they are legit... my OPINION is that it does look a bit shady, but if you can't buy from a more reputable seller, give it a try. if you pay with paypal, there isn't much that can go wrong, really.

That picture would make a funky T-shirt!

And here I thought mine was badly rotten... it's actually "VERY CLEAN/NO RUST!" compared to these... at least my floorpans (weren't original) were still hanging on for dear life, god knows how... what was left of the original floor, near the firewall and behind the seats were almost desintegrated! "Funny Z story" I remember the day we took my Z to a friend's garage so that we could strip it and scavenge every good part before sending the bare body to the scrapyard: I gave a little kick in the passenger's side outter rocker. This spot showed NO rust bubbles or any outter rust at all... after the kick, a huge chunk of paint came down, followed by A LOT of dust... rusty metal dust... it left a gaping hole the size of my fist as you can probably see on this picture: This car was LITERALY kept together by the paint!

I did that once, not gonna happen twice. This time I have a better understanding of the whole thing so I should be able to make a smart decision.

Thanks to all, I think that pretty much tells me what I wanted to know. I think I might like the raw feel of the 240Z aswell as the fact that I find carbs to be much easier to work on. The 240Z's simple design and lack of "complicated" luxury add-ons might make this an easier restoration but then again, I like the idea of getting a bit more punch from a 2.8L engine with the possibility of a 5 speed MT. I guess I'll just wait to find the one that will suit my needs... Seeing how winter is already here, I guess I cannot "safely" import a Z car from the US due to the corrosion and winter tire factors (I would buy one that is driveable instead of having to tow it)

Hi, I've been a Z enthusiast for quite a while now and bought my first Z a while ago. As some of you might remember from the photos, it was done for, rusted beyond repair. I didn't want to admit it at first but soon I realized it really was dead so I scavenged some parts before selling the rest to another Z enthusiast. So now I want to get back in the game with a decent project so I was looking at some Z's for sale and one question appeared: 240Z or 280Z? I'm aware of the differences between the two so what I'm asking is mostly your opinion on these. I guess the value of a 240Z is higher because of the rarity (I know fewer 240Z's were produced) but is there a specific reason why I might want to buy a 240Z that might be in worse shape than a 280Z for the same price? Do you think the "improvements" done to the 280Z's make it a far superior car? Thanks! By the way, I'm a driver, not a collector. I'm aiming for a long term restoration project but first and foremost I want it to be a fun daily drive that I could eventually use at the race track now and then.

@ Blue 72, thanks for the link! The project has begun. I showed my Z aswell as the link you sent to a friend of mine who did some amazing body work on an old Corolla and a couple of friends with bodywork experience and they agreed to help me bring that old piece of rust back to life. I found a parts Z that is (believe it or not) worse than mine EXCEPT for the pillar area which is pretty much intact. We'll start by cutting and welding the ''new'' pillar in place since it's the most important structural flaw my Z has (followed right after that by a million of other things). I'll update you when that's done. Next, the outer rockers are to be repaired. Then, I'll buy new floor pans and subrails. Sounds easy on paper, but I know that because of college, the lack of a proper garage and my friends' busy schedule this part of the project will probably stretch through the next year or so BUT I'm not in a hurry, as long as I can see this Z live again at some point in my life.

I thought about it for a while and here is my conclusion: Up here in Quebec, 2 seater Z's are awfully rare and due to our harsh winters, they usually are in poor condition. Edit: and buying just a frame or even a complete car from the US wouldn't be worth it due to the taxes and import duty on cars. Before I call this one a parts car or a writeoff, I will AT LEAST try to see what I can do. I'll gather some friends who rebuilt their own classic cars, a sandblast and a soldering machine (the CO2 ones) and I'll try to see what I can acheive this way. Buying new floor pans is a must, aswell as the floor supports but that has to be done on every ''northern Z'' so that was on my ''to-do'' list from the start. The outer rockers won't be an easy fix but I don't see why it couldn't be done. If this still dosen't work, I'll be waiting for a good one to come up for sale.

That's what I was affraid to hear... I was too much of a rookie to realize that car was already dead... I'll try to find a better one but up here they are so rare that one in slightly better condition than mine will cost nearly 3000$... I knew I was going to dump a lot of money in this project but I thought the car itself would be the biggest ''one time investment'' I found one for 3000$. It seems alright from the pictures but you never know... However, I'm pretty sure my engine and tranny are still useable, as well as many other parts from my car so I don't NEED a complete one. Thanks for the quick replies, by the way.

Here are some more pictures. Since they were taken, I took of all of the interior trims aswell as the crust of what seems like dried tar (I don't know the word in english) all over the floor and the driveshaft tunnel's walls. to check how the metal under was holding, it's fine overall (except the pictured holes) I'll take more pictures of some more specific things tomorrow, but at the moment that's what I have! Hole in the firewall, passenger side hole in the driveshaft tunnel, behind driver's seat Hole in the floor, under pedals, driver's side.

That's also what I thought... now I"m going to try to find either a Z that is in WORSE condition than mine and take only the pillar (considering it's not rotten) OR Find a good frame in which I will transfer all the good stuff from mine (I.E. transmission, motor, suspension, etc...) For those who wondered, this is gonna sound crazy but all of the other typical rust spots are clean or at least manageable! This car has already been worked on for sure: the floor pans and subrails are still rock solid and only show surface rust (they are not OEM, they lack the ribbing and water drains and were soldered on) while the rockers, wheel arches and hatch latch are pretty much rust free... I can't see why the previous owner took great care of all those but didn't touch up that pillar... The only other real problems I found was a gaping hole in the driveshaft tunnel behind the driver's seat, a hole under the clutch pedal (what remains of the stock floor pan...) and a hole at the passenger side firewall... I'll try to find a pillar, now, aswell as a way to cleanly cut and solder it back in place.