yellowhammerjam

I have the 3 into 2 header from Motorsport and love it. It is not too loud but still has a nice pep to the exhaust note with a 2" pipe to the dynaflow muffler. Brian

She is Alive!!! Had the d@#m wiring in the dizzy cap wrong. Put it back right and magic happened, The car roared to life after a rebuild including a new set of ZT carbs. Now to get balanced and a good nights sleep. Finally, I can quit doubting myself. I did the rebuild as a newbie and a lot of reading and studying and help from you guys. Thanks again to all who helped. Brian

i saw your instruction. I have got it wired into the dizzy fine but for the life of me the rest has my head spinning. I feel like such an idiot but cannot figure out how to wire everything to the coil. I am removing the resistor so do I have to cut and splice any wires together? Man if someone could snap a pic of the same setup and post that would be great. I do not want to cut wires and screw everything up. I need detailed instructions. Electrical is my weak point and please can anyone help me????? Hate to beg but will if need to, . Brian

Trying to install my Petronix 1761 and I have seen pics of how to install in the dizzy itself but does someone have a pic of how the wiring is to the coil and all the connections? I am using the resistor right now and I have the 3.0 flamethrower coil. I would be willing to get rid of the resistor is need be also. I am visual and need to see the actual shot and not just schematics. Please can anyone help. I have been running points on a stock 72 240z and making the switch now. Thanks guys and gals, Brian

Putting my new exhaust headers on and my intake and had a weird brain seize. Do all the bolts on the exhaust header and intake have lock washers? Either I am missing some or what????

Well a road trip will be in order.

I have lost the oil pump bolt somewhere. It is the shorter one. I have the other 3. What size is the shorter one and can I pick one up at a parts store like Autozone, etc... Thanks in advance Brian

Thanks all.

Yep I am going to do that tomorrow. Any suggestions on how best to clean the block surface to mate the head later?

Well I removed the head today expecting to find the gasket cracked, ripped, or just in horrible shape. To my amazement the gasket looked new and in great shape. I had been having oil seep out between the head and block. No other signs of having a problem other than that though. The car ran fine, well except for the carbs, and never ran hot or leaked coolant. Anyways, if the head checks out as straight, what would I need to do? I have got a new gasket but what can I gently clean the head and block with to get it clean for the new gasket. The block is still assembled and in the car. Can I use a type of scotchbrite pad to clean the surfaces? Any recommendations on installing the new gasket that you use? Thanks for all he help guys. I am learning as I go and trying to get it right the first time. Brian

I am in the process of removing the head to replace the head gasket due to oil leaking out around the edges between the block and head. I have already tried to re-torque the head bolts and they are all good. Anyways... Do I have to remove the cam sprocket to release the chain after wedge the tensioner to secure the chain? Can I simply mark everything and take the chain off carefully and replace gasket then set head and slip chain back over sprocket matching exact tooth that it was taken off of. If this is done then how important is it to find exactly tdc as long as everything is put back the way it was before head removal. Thanks, Brian

Thanks guys for the info. I believe I will try to re-torque the bolts and see if that fixes the problem. Much easier to try than pulling the head. Hope it will fix the issue. Brian

I am having a problem with oil seeping out in spots between my head and block. At first it was very minimal and now it is more noticeable. I am debating on replacing the head gasket as the possible cause. My question is what is meant by stage 1 and stage 2 bolts in relation to the head cylinder bolts? What is the correct torque on the cylinder head bolts? My head is an E88 head and is bone stock. The previous owner who I called up recently said he replaced the head gasket when he reassembled the engine. He had a ring job and valve job done while apart. The car from what I can tell uses no oil, antifreeze, or has no drips anywhere except for the oil seeping between the block and head. I checked the radiator and no signs of oil. Car does not smoke neither, but acts like it has a vacum leak somewhere as the idle is sparatic between 700-1200 rpm's. Btw the car is a 72 with an L24 and stock. I checked the compression by warming engine to normal, removing all spark plugs, and with full open throttle my readings were low (120,118,120,117,118, 120) They were pretty consistent though. Could the low reading be due to the head gasket leaking? Thanks in advance for any input. Brian

St.Stephen, need a R200 Rearend. Condition? Gears? Would need the half shafts also. Would need shipped. Thanks....

Thanks I may try that.

All the smog equipment is still hooked up. I am thinking it could be the anti backfire valve causing the backfire out the exhaust. Only does it upon deceleration after the engine is warmed up. Thoughts? Also in trying to balance out the carbs I hear a whisteling sound coming from the rear carb. I can push up on the pin underneath slightly and it will stop and idle smoother. Thoughts on how to adjust so the whistle stops? I am close on the carbs. The engine runs smooth on aceleration just can not get the idle smooth at 750 rpm. At 1000 rpm pretty smooth. I am thinking the whistling of the rear carb is to blame.

I will check the smog pump to see if it is still installed. I bought a timing strobe today and will be checking that tonight.

Could my anti backfire valve be bad? I checked into replacing that and ouch the price is around $200. Are the timing strobe easy to read even for a novice such as myself? I found the advance and retard marks at the bottom of the dizzy. It is set at just past the middle mark slightly. I guess I just need to get a timing strobe and figure it out. The engine had some work before I bought the car. It had been sitting for about 12 years garaged. All stock except for headers installed some time back. The engine ran ok when I bought it except for a little smoke. Then I noticed the ticking sound soon after. When I first crank the car with the choke it sounds pretty smooth. No ticking or backfiring. After it warms up and choke depressed the ticking starts and the backfiring starts upon decelleration from high revs along with puffs of smoke.

Well I have almost finished the front suspension and moving to the rear. I will check the exhaust manifold gasket for leaks and get the timing right. The flow meter has yet to arrive but will get the carbs balanced soon hopefuly. I love tinkering with the car and learning how things work and how to fix when it breaks down. The aricles and advice from you guys are so valuable. Maybe soon I will have it back on the road with a big smile on my face!!! Also, running stock points. Have toyed with the idea of electronic ignition. One baby step at a time though.

Long time reader, first time poster. My 1972 240z cranks easily and when cold starting with the choke I get no backfiring. After the Z warms up I get the backfiring on high revs when i release the pedal. Also, I get a chirping sound that worries me like the valves rattling after it warms up. Is this probably all related to timing and SU carb adjustment? I ordered the flow meter today and will try to balance the carbs better. The car had a slight smoke out the tailpipe but comes and goes. I was going up an incline the other day and it sounded like the valves were about to jump out the motor. Love the car and tinkering with it, but as far as mechanical reasoning I have been reading older posts to try and figure out the problem Any advice would help.