dawg7

Being in Texas......not really worried about it. But I was thinking it being behind the shock tower and up on the wheel well that it would not get too much road splash. This picture shows where I put the relays. Right where the fuel vapor canister was located.

Wish I could report that I made good progress but........nope can't say that. I only got a few runs before life got in the way. Didn't get much done at all. This weekend is mine right up to the Sunday at 5pm CST!

Here is a pic of the BLUESEA ST blade fuse block PN 5025. Six positive connections...three for the lights and signals; three for the stereo and amps.

Thanks for the replies. The fuel tank level was 3/4 full when I started driving that day. Ended up with a 1/4 tank and experienced the same issue through out the drive. I'll open up the idle mixture a little bit and see what happens. My hope is the RPM doesn't change too much. I feel good that the throttle plate to the first progression hole is set correctly. I did it with the carbs removed. To me it was hard to get the hole covered correctly by shining the flashlight thru the choke with the carb installed. Thanks again!

My engine builder looked at them and told me they looked great. The plugs have that milk chocolate appearance of a good burn.

Hello Gents, As the title states I am experiencing some issues during deceleration when coming to a stop using the gears. I can put the car in neutral and it stays running. But when I use the gears to help with the stop especially when coming in hot and fast the engine just wants to die. It always dips to 500 RPM and most of the time just stops running. It idles good, it runs good going thru the gears, sounds freaking awesome! but the damn stop..... Been tuning the carbs for a few weeks and I think it is real close. Idles at 1000. Fuel PSI is 3.5. Fuel return line is capped. I barely have the 2-3K rpm stumble. I can tell it pulls very nice all the way to 5500 but that is as far as my butt is calibrated....anyway I think the cam tops out of 6400??? Timing set to 12 degrees at 1000 rpm and 34 degrees advance at 3000 rpm ( no creep when rpm increased to 4000) I have read many Weber tuning manuals and haven't come across the "dies upon decel" troubleshooting steps. The carbs were good when they came out of a L24 and have been sitting for a few years. I cleaned them up like a rookie would and did a minor overhaul using the Peirce Manifold kit. Change the chokes and the idle and main jets per Peirce Manifold tech reps guidance. I don't have a clue what my next step should be other than checking for some restrictions in the carbs. Here is the specs of the engine: CARB SPECS CHOKE 34 AIR CORRECTION 180 MAIN JET 140 IDLE JET 50F9 EMULSION F11 AUX VENT 4.5 PUMP JET 1.75 NEEDLE SEAT 1.75 INLET VALVE .55 ENGINE SPECS N42 block overbore 3mm KA24E PISTONS ITM RY6660 CUT .5mm N42 head port polished gasket matched ISKY L480 Cam Cosmetic head gasket 1.2mm 71 240z connecting rods MSA 6-2-1 header 2 ½ “ Magnaflow glass pack and Magna flow exhaust Canon Intake Vacuum plugged Weber DCOE 40-18 1975 280z distributor 3 ohm Petronix flamethrower Taylor 8mm spark plug wires

Welcome to the Z community! I am also here at Fort Hood AKA "The great place" as you well know by now (we get told that everyday!!!) I almost went V8 but decided to go with a 3.1 stroker. It sounded like a good idea at the time but I just couldn't do it. I want to stay with the L6. The build that was done here locally with no issues. There are a couple of shops here that can handle whatever you want to throw in that car. I have the JTR V8 swap books if you want to look at them. PM me..I have extra parts for that year as well.

just a quick update.......first of all the keg was replaced...twice already. Since I had the head off I went ahead and sent it to the machine shop. Since the head was off I might as well yank the engine out and clean things up a bit. Since the engine is out I might as well go ahead and go with a stroker 3.1. Yeah might as well. I hear they are a hoot to drive and sound awesome. And something about I'll like the torque. Short block is done. Waiting on new valve seals for the head. Just rebuilt the Weber 40s. Got an Isky 480 grind cam. Overhauled the tranny. Can't wait to rip up some asphalt. Thanks for the tips and cheers!

What a neat segment It focused on a Japanese restorer of Fairlady Z's. Beautiful work . One of his comments fits with comments I have seen in this community. It is totally wrong to modify or go hybrid. Stay 100% original. Anyway if you can access Velocity TV, check it out.

I just took off the oil pan. Good thing I did because whatever was coating the inside of the pan is flaking off big time. But that is the least of my worries....the head gasket stuck to the front cover and is torn. And on top of that my KEG is almost empty!!!!! I am now contemplating working the N42 head like the DatsunZgarage mod tips.....

The attempt at putting the tensioner back on failed. The springs was already off the shaft. Off the comes the cover. Really it is a good time to work on a car here in Texas. Put in the garage, crank the AC and get at it. Thanks for the replies! And as a side note O' Reilly parts has the gasket set for the cover!! Felpro or Beck Arnley.

Is there any way to reinstall the tensioner without removing the front cover? I am asking this for a friend.....He is always getting into trouble with his car. I mean this friend is fearless. He will take apart anything if he has a manual. Doesn't care if some Brit wrote it....doesn't care about the fuzzy pictures.....I told him not to do it but he went ahead and tried to replace the cam on his own! But he is afraid of being embarrassed. So that is why I am writing this on his behalf. Anyway he was replacing the cam and had the chain wedge in place but somehow the tensioner fell out. It is just laying there. Is my friend screwed and need to pop the front cover off?

It was the accelerator rod sticking. Yanked em out and gave them a good cleaning. Now to get some new gaskets and such then put everything back together. Oh and will get the stronger return springs! Thanks LeonV and Zedyone_Kenobi!!!

thanks for the link.....hope the mystery oil solves the stuck rod. Yeah have fun with that line.....

I took the tops off and look at the accelerator pump rod assy....they are stuck; won't move. The other carb's rod assy is free and I can lift it up and it drops freely. The return springs are ok. I put a few drops of Marvel Mystery oil on the rods... edit...these are 40DCOE -18s .

I bought these from a acquaintance type who said the car was running fine with these carbs. They have been sitting for two years. I am getting ready to install them and came across the linkage issue. My question is how come two of three carbs don't have the throttle linkage no where near the idle speed screw? The throttle plates of those two are open as far as the linkage is from the screw. I can't find the adjustment procedure in all the literature I downloaded from this site. All I have figured out is the throttle shaft hits the accelerator pump rod. I appreciate the help!

did the pm to dave and he gave me the right road to travel......it was the intermittent wiper relay. I kinda fried it.....Dave told me to unplug it. The good news is the 94 honda wiper motor works in lo and hi.

Hey everyone!....I tried the upgrade using the connections below and a 94 honda motor. It worked but the wipers were going down and parking in the full up postion. That is when I got stupid and switched two wires on the relay. I think it was 85 and 30. anyway now I have nothing. I have the FSM and two manuals but I can't find why I am not getting power at the motor connector or the wiper amp. I did some basic troubleshooting. First I checked the fuse and it is good. Then I disconnected the negative on battery and did some continuity checks on the combo switch as per FSM, that checked out. Next I checked the continuity on the motor connector. Black to frame ground-good. black to blue/yellow has continuty and so does black to blue/white. I am not sure if that is right. I tried to check power at the wiper amp. I checked every color to every other color wire and didn't get any volts. I am pretty lost right now and feel like the only cure is a beer. Maybe two. Any help is appreciated! 70' Datsun 240Z __________________ 91' Honda civic wiper motor blue/white-------pin 86 ________ Pin 87A-------blue/white blue-------------pin 87 ________ pin 30--------blue Blue/red-----------pin 85-------pin 85----------green/black Black----------------------to------------------black Blue/yellow----------------to-------------------blue/yellow

check with Kevin, phone # and address at zclinic.net, he has a shop off of research blvd. also check Al’s Bodyworks in Austin. he did Mark Rolston's Z, http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-car.html. I checked the price of the fender flares he did on that Z. $$$$$$$. but it reflects that cost. just awesome. so there goes the reasonable option..... but it is nice to see high quality work. anyway good luck. try kevin.

I can't stop from a burning a wire, burning a guage and scaring the wife thinking I'm going to burn down the garage in my quest to get my turnsignals to work. Told her not to worry cause I won't let the harley get burned.....anyway I am at my wits end and need an electrician! Need some suggestions and recommendations on who can fix my car's electrical issues in the Austin area. I have been working on this for months and I'm over my head.

I found a guage online and also found the small plastic arm for the hazard switch that I lost earlier!! yeah!!! things are looking up. also found a used dash and console wiring harness that from the pics has all the connectors and no cut wires. Not like my harness. Mine has too many cuts and splices. Hopefully and with a good check of wiring diagram prior to applying power there will be turn signals!

I just smoked my fuel/amp gauge.....don't wanna talk about it. ever. I need a replacement and a qualified electrician.

I would head south!

Guys-Thanks for the tips. Looked at all the connectors and I can't find anything wrong or damaged. I opened up the hazard switch and found some heavy corrosion on the topside of the contact lever. Also I think I lost a part! Once I put it back together the switch doesn't "click". Opened it back up there seems to be some threads on the back side of the rocker switch. something has to go there to put pressure on the lever. I looked around the work area and can't find it! Oh well. Will look tomorrow when the sun is out. Again guys thanks for the help. time for beer and football!

the picture is the T/S combo connector. The white wire goes to the flasher unit. There isn't continuity until I attach the tach connector and goes away when I remove the WR or WB turn signal indicator lights at the back of the tach.