dawg7

I took the dash out because of all the corrosion. White flaky junk was falling all over the place. This weekend I cleaned (wire brush and sand paper) the metal and painted all the support legs and braces. Going to paint the main part of the dash this week. Now I have a dash harness on my work table. I am still getting contitunity between GR and GB of the T/S combo connector on the dash harness. I see where the wires split to different connectors but why am I getting contitunity on those two wires on the same connector? I traced the wires and don't see any breaks or burns or anything!!! Can I have a bad connector?

Pulled the tach out along with the dash....put the multimeter on the T/S combo connector between GR and GB. I get continuity. Now when I went to wiggling some wires I found myself at the tach with the turn signal lights. The short seems to be at those lamps. Once I pull the wire off either of the bulbs the short stops. The bulb gets its ground off the tach frame...right? what is going on here?

I don't have turn signals, never had since I got the car. The headlights, parking lights, reverse and brake lights work. The hazard lights work on the left side only with the dash light illuminating the left side turn indicator. From the checks I did so far I think I have a short. I have the FSM and started continuity checks on the T/S combo, then from the T/S connector to dash connector C3 and flasher unit and then flasher unit to dash connector C2. I have found that I have continuity between Green/Red stripe (left turn) and Green/Black (right turn) of the male pins of the T/S combo connector. Connectors C3 and C2 were disconnected for the continuity checks. The FSM is telling me the wires go to the turn signal lamp at the TACH then onto the C3 connector. So somewhere between the wiring connectors there is a short……….. has anyone seen the wires short out at the signal indicators?

got the dangling horn piece glued back together and screwed in place. Now the headlights....I am thinking the headlight combo is worn out. When I rotate the switch to headlights they don't turn on....when I give it a bit of extra force past the stop they turn on. Then go off when I release the pressure. Fixable or replace?

just popped off the steering column cover and discovered a broken piece of metal and plastic just a dangling.....and now the headlights don't work. It has to do something with the high beam/low beam mechanism. What was the part # of the combo switch?

got the lights working. now troubleshooting the turn signals. I have headlights (and brights) and marker lights, brake lights and reverse. I have left side blinkers when the hazard switch is turned on, but no turn signals at all when using the turn signal. swapped out the hazard and turn signal flasher unit and they checkout. after looking under the dash and seeing wires everywhere with 14ga splices galore I am going to start a thorough checkout of the wiring from front to back. I have the FSM and haynes book, hopefully that will work.

Thanks for the info. I just got permission from the budget office to get new rims with a budget of 600-800 max. Will be selling some centerlines! I will pull one of the wheels and measure the offset.

Just got done installing eibach pro springs and Tokico HP struts. I stayed with the same15 inch rims and put on the 225/50/15 BFG gForce tires. The front tires rub during the turns........crap. Not sure what to do next. Maybe some flares? The tires do stick out from the fenders about an inch or so.

I was hesitant with the FSM spots due to that area being damaged by previous jacked up jacking..... but I went ahead and moved the rear. The front location was recommended by a Z car guru of some sorts. Will relocate the front to the FSM spots on the next maintenance routine. Thanks!

From a newb for the newbs...........this is where I put my jackstands. Lifted the car using a floor jack at the rear diff and the front cross member. I didn't take a pic of the right rear because the strut was still in the way. I put that jackstand at the exact location as the left. There is still clearance for the removal of the rear stabilizer. barely.............

That worked out. Thanks for the tip! Will do the research on the PITA spindle in case I want to use the new urethane bushing set, "the master set" I have for the car. Again thanks!!

My goal is putting in Eibach progressive springs and Tokico struts. The front end struts were not a problem. Now the rear end is different story. I am following the Haynes manual as my bible. It has me removing the traverse link pivot bolt "lock bolt". I can get the nut and washers off no problem but it sure seems that the bolt is pressed in from the top of the housing. How does one go about removing the "bolt" with a standard set of tools?

Hey what about the harness upgrade kit from Blackdragon Auto? They are advertised as the harness to support the Euro or High power halogen lights. Connects to the battery and has two relays. part # 72-555 for 30$. I am going to call them today and see how it connects to the harness.

yep that is the one. I am going to cut the old connector off with plenty of wire to spare and then splice in one of those vintage connectors. Thanks.

I think they will fit also. Now I need to find the short wire harness from the light to the three prong connector. I remember seeing a electrical connector website that deals with old stlyle connectors and relays. Can't find it now.........ugh.

will the headlight assemblies from a 72 240z work? got a set I can buy if they fit.

Guys, thanks for the tips. I will start digging into the headlights this week! Just breezed thru Blackdragon auto online. Thanks now I have some bedtime reading!

ooops made a newbie mistake. did a quick edit and added the year. I have been out all morning digging thru the wire bundles and found the connectors. It is the three prong connector type. I checked the voltage and got 12vs between RB to RW and RB to RY at both connectors when lights are switched on. I didn't see a 260 or 280 wire harness upgrade on MSA. Still want to try and get a brighter headlight. One thing I am not noticing is the high beam switch? I can't see any mention of it in the FSM or Haynes.

I bought a car that has painted light covers on the front and PAII halogens mounted on the front bumper. pulled the painted light covers and found just the housing. No wires or connectors or anything....I did find some wires that were cut and capped, just not sure if they were for the headlights (see pic). Since there is numerous posts about light conversions and wire harness upgrades I am looking for the best route to get upgraded. 74 260Z early 12/73

thanks for the info guys. check my logic on this one.........the original tire size of 195/70/14 is 24.8 inches. If I go with the Eibach progressive spring that should drop the car 1 to 1.5 inches from stock. So that means I should go with a tire height of 23.8 or shorter? A good choice is 225/50/15 at 23.9 inches. But if you say you should have went with a 225/50/16 that would be 24.9. Wouldn't that be real close to the fender and cause rubbing? And you have the Eibach progressive springs?

Just bought a Z car from Southern Cal! It was the one that was displayed at the Datsun Heritage Museum for the last year. I picked it up last week and have it at its new home. I have some minor (is there such a thing?) issues to take care before I can drive it around town. Also the car is way too low, too harsh. The springs have been cut to 6 or 7 turns and the tires are 195/50/15's. That is 22 inches of tire height and 3 inches of ground clearance. I'll be researching on a new setup. Right now I am leaning towards Eibach springs and 205/60/15's. Anyway this is my intro! Oh this might be important....this is my first Z car. I have driven my friends 73 Z back in the day but never owned one.