KAL7467

yes 225-50-15 is what i meant. and I ended up going with the Enkei Apacjie in silver with polished lip 15x8 0 offset

Guy at the wheel shop says no but i want to ask someone who has a set. I can get either 15x7 or 15x8 and will run 255-50-15 tires. Anyone with experience with these wheels please let me know

how much are they?

doing my daily search and came across this. I would jump on this but I believe my series 1 has different shaped exhaust ports. Hope this helps someone out. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/pts/2939442630.html

that is the one sir. thanks a ton.

A while back a member posted up a link in a thread to a nice smaller company that made pedal kits for our cars(with the long gas and wide brake and clutch) they also had nice rubber nubs and weren't all ugly and flashy like other pedal sets you see online and in parts stores. I know pedal kits and non functional but now that my build is finishing up I want to buy something I want and don't need...thanks for any help in advance

I just read this whole thread over and honestly I think you should just listen to 5thhorseman and get a Zx internally regulated alternator and the plug that bypasses the external regulator. Alot of your time and money would be saved in my opinion.

Looks great man. Nice place to start. I would tune her up and make sure the gas tank is not rusted.

so you are using a 22awg wire to bypass your ammeter? please do not drive your car with anyone else but yourself in it. it is shade tree electrician moves like this that burn cars to the ground. those two wires could easily be connected with the proper gauge insulated but connector or spades. if it is not long enough than use the same gauge wire you started with, beyond basic wiring it is just common sence.

The 260 is looking good and your dad is a awsome guy.I hope to start minor refreshes with both my boys when they are each 14/15 so by the time they have a license they understand how a car works and hopefully respect and apreciate it. Plus it will be a good excuse to get 2 move Zed in the family...

Could it perhaps be a in between series car that has the holes cut in the deck but the plastic tool holders behind the seats as well..? I think you mentioned something like this in another post Carl?

unless you are sitting on at least 10k and have some serious metal work skills pass on this. besides the rust I seen dryer out weatherstrip, and a interior that needs at least a few hundred to get it freshened up. IMO that is a parts car. my car had about 10% of that rust and I have already spent a mint bringing her back

i assume you mean the screws that hold the glass to the crank system. I was missing one screw and used a stainless 10/32nd 1" bolt and nut to attach it with a rubber and metal washer on both sides and it holds great

Welcome from a fellow atlanta metro z owner. Their are a few gooz z shops in the area aswell as the ga z club

i went with the red and would suggest it to anyone doing a refresh. now all the trim matches my perfect NOS door handles and mirror:)

bought a tube of wenol on a friends advice. the stuff is magic. it brought my drip rails, window trim and everything chrome or polished on my car back to life. this stuff makes the parts look damn newr new and only costs about $10. i have not seen it in a store so i got it on the net and am very satisfied

got my parts from nissan yesterday and all I can say is WOW they look perfect, glad I spent the extra cash since the door handles have rubber parts that I never knew existed. cant wait to put these and the mirror on after paint.

yep cleaned them up aud used some green marine grease i have in the shop

well bit the bullet and got both NOS mirror and door handles from Courtesy Nissan for $185 shipped but I guess it will be worth it in the long run

interested in this shipped to 30066(tranny rubber interior seal and metal bracket)and wiper motor

Thank you so freaking much. that pic is awsom and is going to make things a ton easier when I put my doors back together. lucky for me the windows are out so no bloody hands. but I have a feeling getting all the window parts back in is not going to be a breeze either

i think i am using either rammat or fatmat not really sure has been about a year since I bought it...I do have the roller and have been using cuts to make it lay flatter ...thanks everyone for the input. cant wait to be done with this boring yet necessary task

OK so I guess I am looking at the process backwards. thanks a ton.

I need to see a pic that shows how the door lock rod on the outer door handle attaches to the door lock mech. I found a thread with this exact question and pic but the pic was gone because the thread was from 2008 and the FSM shows a black and wite taken apart diagram. I am interested is seeing if the plastic adjusting nut goes over or under the latch on the mech where it attaches. if it goes under it holds itself in place but if it goes ontop I will need to use a nut to secure it

anyone have some tips for doing it quick. I got 3/4 of the firewall done including a small part of the tranny hump in 2 and a half hours and it is tedious boring work