KAL7467

thanks foir this thread and pics helped me a ton with my install

so are you saying not to join them and to connect only the hot side to the hot side of the coil and leave the other side butted off and tied up?

yes sir those are the wires... I will go ahead and join them together since I removed the resister to clean up a bit...thanks you much

I am installing the pertronics setup with the flamethrower 3.0ohm coil. This setup tells me to not use the balist resistor. my question is where do the 2 wires going to the ballist restisto go in the new setup? I assume the go to the 2 extra spots on the coil but just want to double check...thanks in advance

I have same problem. Lay under dash and push on the boot going into the booster. Mine leaks at that point when squeezed.I believe the po adjusted the rod to compensate for lack of vacuum. Not 100 percent sure though. Braked stop fine but are rock hard.

Got my seatbelts yesterday fixing to install them today hopefully

think it is #45 on the car parts manual but that lists the whole part not just the stopper...mabye I need to just check pull a parts ormake a new rubber stopper...getting some leaking in right side trunk and am trying to narrow doen what is causeing the problem guess I will lay in hatch while my friend sprays with hose...thanks all and steve that meeting is today huh? depending if my son is feeling better when i get home will see if i am going to be able to make it...

on the trunk where the rear hatch locks in on both sides near the bottom their are guides with stoppers in them on the bottom are rubber/wax pieces I say wax because mine are so shot they seem to be made of wax...does anyone know this part name or number and where to get it .I tried the z store and they dont have it in their online parts or I may not be looking for the right thing?thanks in advance I can get pics of teh exact part if that will help...

didnt read the article just looked at the pics...is that a BRE rear wing?

http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=BPR6ES&x=55&y=10 which ones so i order? I know the bottom one is single blister packs but the other two seem the same ...any opinions?

yes eddie called today gotta give him a call back tomorrow thanks

thanks guys...ok so between 21 and 80 hummm guess I'm screwed..... just thinking about replacing with a high amp resettable circuit breaker and upping the wire gauge....will look into it a bit more

how many amps is the fuseable link comoing off the starter? my wireing diagram just names it and does not say how many amps...thanks for any help in advance

going ahead and replacing cap and rotor and plugs and wires while I am at it. What further adjustments will i need to make when this is all done such as timing and carbs? any good write ups on post tune up adjustments? thanks in advance...

Not sure which tach I have... I assume I will have to take the tach out of the dash to see

ok I am installing a pertronics kit to replace the points in the distributor along with a flamethrower coil(the 3.0 ohm one) ...now in posts I have read some people say they leave the ballast resistor in place and others say it is best to take it out. I am aware the system may mess with my tach a bit but how accurate is a 40 year old tach anyway ...but what is the real deal on the resistor? In case it matters I replaced my alternator with a 60amp one that was supposed to go in a 280zx and made my own little plug with diode to go on the voltage regulator plug...other than that I have not changed anything else in my electrical system...any input would be greatly apreciated especially first hand knowledge...thanks in advance

called you back left a message...

I definitely hear you I am kind of just replacing a lot of stuff that might not be needed but the electric dizzy and coil were ordered before this problem ...only by a few hours though ...and the ZX alternator was next on my list...as for the starter it looks cruddy and is only 30 bucks so might as well...as for connections all will be replaced when I replace any and all of these and other parts...thanks all for the input I will update when Figure this out or just plain make it stop...ehh start

well went to auto zone and the battery checked fine...decided it may be a connection between ignition switch and starter or the starter solenoid. so I ordered the anew starter with solenoid for cheaper than solenoid alone...and will put all new connections on the system when I switch it out Sunday. on a side note ofcorse now it is starting fine...just my luck

Steve that would be awesome and earn you lunch and beer I called your buddys shop on Wednesday and left a message but didn't get a call back prob because he has family stuff going on this weekend...pm or call me at 7702941519....off to advanced auto to get battery tested and buy a ZX alternator...

let me add that the ammeter is at dead center and all the lights interior and exterior seem to be as bright as they should be which is strange to me...wish i had my multimeter but it is at my shop so that will have to wait a few hours need some sleep...

OK here is the deal...was at walmart this evening after driving about 15 miles on the hwy and my car starting up great to begin this journey. when I got out of walmart about 1 to 1 and a half hours later my car would not start no turning over at all...at first a little click but then nothing. I got a jump and let the car sit but didn't give it gas and in a few minutes it shut off again. so then I got another jump and it cranked right up and I drove home like a bat out of hell with my headlights on and all and it was fine. turned car off in driveway and tried to restart and we are back to nothing going on. now at first I thought it was just a bad battery because the other day my glove box light stayed on all day and killed it, so I charged the battery for a bit at work. and it has worked fine since then. (the battery was purchased by the PO in 2009 with all new terminals and such just for reference) since it died after the first jump does that make it more of a alternator not charging the battery problem than just a dead battery problem? any suggestions or am I just a dumb arse and just looking at a simple dead battery ... was going to upgrade to a 280zx alternator in the near future so may do that tomorrow anyway...thanks in advance

I had the same exact fault last week and instead of a fuse it was actually a connection off the pigtail that was coming loose...cleaned it up a little but IMO all those 40 year old connectors are junk and I am going to do a big refresh soon...I am in acworth by the way this problem must be a atlanta thing

I notice that the bumper on a 240 has undergone changes from 1970-1973 due to us laws and such. Did the US bumper/front or rear ever come without the verticle pieces or was that a asian market thing only? I really like the look of it and on my rear bumper the PO removed them and it looks great but he left them on the front. If I remove them what kind of holes will their be to fill? Can I do It with a set of chrome carriage bolts? any info is apreciated...thanks in advance

thanks as always u guys rock...and just incase I do deform that piece are they hard to come by?