KAL7467

Can someone vouch for the quality,fit between the MSA,Black Dragon door Handles and a set of NOS ones for twice the price? If the non-NOS ones are going to clunk not fit well and chip easily then the extra cash sounds like a great idea but if they are basically similar I will go with the knockoffs. I am buying a NOS side mirror so I am not opposed to dropping the cash on quality but do not want to throw the cash away on a name...guess whats an extra $50n when you are this deep in already on a full restomod that started with just changing the quarter window seals...but that is a whole other story

pm sent about mags

I am using fatmat basically a slightly cheaper version of dynomat on pretty much the entire interior and doors. And some closed cell sticky sided foam on the inside of all the plastic parts to keep them from creeking and ratteling.

that is a amazing paint job. I will be happy if mine looks half as good when we paint this month. can't wait to see your whole thing put back together...guess I should head to the garage to finnish with the sound deadening on the interior.

check the 2 wires going to the rheostat for power. one should have one should not when pulled off. if that is the case the rheostat is bad. I have LED dash lights so I just butted both wires together. you can either do this or buy a new rheostat. if neither wire is getting power than you will have to use the wiring diagram to trace back the problem

I am trying to decide how I want to set my 240 up sterieo wise. I am not at all into the whole car system thing and mostly only listen to news radio, country station or my ipod. The PO had a aftermarket cd player installed with 2 6x9's installed on the rear deck in blocks of carpeted wood. The speakers look pretty stock like so I am leaning toward keeping them. Up front I have no other speakers so I was looking at those kick panals with built in speaker pods that someone on the site makes but may just run the wires to the kick panal and add speakers at a later date. My big debate is what to do with the head unit. A friend gave me a fancy sony head unit with a Ipod controller which I could either mount in the dash or mount the original AM only radio in the dash for looks and hide the new one somewhere...If I do use the new one does anyone have a suggestion of where to put the ipod connection cable. I would like to hard mount it somewhere and keep it clean looking as possible. Any suggestions or pics would be great...thanks

I used small woodd sticks to keep it in perfect place whyle the 3m adhesivedryed. Also rip the corner piece so it can be fed up higher in the corner. Use 00000steel wool to clean off the excess adhesive

70k for a car with a dash cap...

Well problem solved. Went buy a Zshop here in Marietta and found out that the later boosters came with a few different sized pushrod studs and there are a few different sized end brackets that go on them. When you order one from the parts store or even black dragon it is the luck of the draw. He traded me a larger one for the small one I had and all I had to do is bore out the pin end that attaches to the actual pedal to fit my larger pin in. On a side note if you are putting the larger booster in a early 240 you also need to swap out the nipple that goes into the master cylinder with your old one because the new one is too long and will lock up your brakes. Hope this helps someone else out some day...

called napa and the part is about $40 morer than at orilley since I do not have a buisness account there. That $40 may be a small price to pay in order to not mess with re threading the nut...

nice glad I'm not the only one...will work on it tomorrow

well I got a new booster from orally.. I took all the bolts and everything else off the old booster including the nipple part that goes into the master cylinder and the bracket that attaches to the pedal assembly with a pin.. The bracket(fork like part with pin) from the old booster that attaches to the brake pedal that threads onto the booster is actually smaller than the stud on the new booster. now the part seems to be made of copper or brass so it should be easy to enlarge and rethread but I just wanted to know if this was something others ran into or if I got an oddball reman booster with a larger diameter stud on the pedal end? Also on the master cylinder side the nipple part that goes into the master seems to be a lot longer, I can replace it with the one from the old booster. I can post pics if it makes it more clear. I just want to make sure I have the correct part before I drill new holes in the fire wall to mount the larger booster. On a side note If someone has the correct bracket that goes with the larger booster I would be happy to buy it from them. thanks for any info you can share...

Maybe put 240 bumpers, fix the rust and paint spouse up the interior and put a set of us carbs on it and have the best of both worlds....3.1 stroker with tripples are fun I hear

that is sure quite a bit of blue...nice find

11 clips on each door

looking at the grungy old thing makes the decision to replace it easy especially since i have spent the last year grinding scraping and cleaning every other parts on the car during the teardown. also if it gives any better brake response than the tiny unit that came in the series one cars I am all for that also. thanks again for everyones input

thanks a lot. Hopefully Orileys will have the 8" booster in stock when I go to pick one up. Did you notice any more assist in your brakeing from the larger booster?

Is a refurbished brake booster from a 280z at Orileys or Autozone a direct replacement for a early 240z with the smaller booster? Since I have everything out for paint I noticed the booster is very corrodid and seems to be the original. It may have been leaking, so i think it would be best to replace. Will there be a benefit to using the larger booster besides the fact I can not find the small early ones for as cheap?

I ordered a set from black dragon and ity was about $110 shipped for the pair for my 71. Not too bad IMO. They are great quality as far as looks and build. Have not put them on as my car is in pieces waiting for paint. I have the set I took off my car and they are in pretty good shape. Chrome is mint and the rubber is just a bit hard but complete and not falling apart. PM me if you are interested in them.

I have read around the net that when running coil overs you should install the bump steer spacer set. Is this also true when running the 1" drop from the Tokico struts and springs on the 240? Just want to make sure I have all the correct parts before I re assemble. Thanks

Ok well while I have my whole rear end out off the car I decided to install my tokico springs and struts. I only have a few questions. In blues writeup I noticed a rubber space between the top spring perch and the upper strut insulator. I did not notice the rubber spacer he mentioned unless it was jammed up in the insulator. My question is does the 240 have this part like the 280 does? Also my rear suspension is still attached to the diff as I removed it all in one piece and it is sitting on a table. When I tightened everything up it was still loose like the fronts were in blues write up. Are they loose because the cars weight is not on them or because I am missing the spacer or a combination of both? any tips on a picture by picture write up of 240z specific nature would be awesome. thanks in advance.

Well today I pulled the motor,tranny ,diff and all the suspension pieces even though I planned on just rattle can painting the engine bay black. Happy to report no rust under the battery or any where else un expected that we hadn't already cut out and fixed. We used seam sealer on a few places like the frame rails and tranny tunnel and painted the whole underside, interior, and engine bay with rust shield black paint and then sprayed the engine with the Datsun light blue metalic and cleared it so we can replace the engine other pieces and roll it to the actual paint booth. I am really glad we gutted the whole thing because I was able to get everything protected with phosphoric acid and then the rust shield. Here are a few pics. Tikico suspension will go on sunday and the suspension pieces will be painted black with chassie saver and the gear boxes will be scrubbed a bit. Enjoy the pics...

stop showing me this horrible crap...I am going to go curl up in a ball and cry my self to sleep now

Thank you I will check on that now

Those are the same relays I have at my shop and plan on using on my 240z.