5thhorsemann

Now that is F'ed up, what kind of heartless POS would do something like that. Now I want to punch someone in the face.

If you care for a medium to large breed dog well enough to get a healthy teenager for any period of time, you have done well. I've mostly had Dobies and Rott's, the average life expectancy is around 8 years for these breeds. My last Dobie, Kato, made it 14 years before I had to put him down, I sobed like a bitch and held him on my lap for an hour after he passed, I wanna cry just thinking about it. Ruger will be 8 this summer and he's healthy as a horse. I think the biggest key to a raising a healthy old dog is doing your homework when getting the pup. Look hard at the parents (and the parents litter mates if you can) if you can't meet with mom and dad, don't take the pup. Look at previous litters too if you can, most owners will be glad to have you visit. Stay away from pet stores and kennels, besides supporting puppy mills, those dogs are not as healthy as a private breeders stock. If you don't want to do all the leg work, adopt. Not trying to jump the thread, just a hard core animal lover, currently have 1 dog, 1 cat, 2 birds and a horse. Food donations are appriciated.

I've never heard of "BAMAZON", not much of a reality TV fan and I felt compelled to google the show, ya know, to make sure the little guy wasn't gonna get eaten or something. Think O___________. But seriously, I feel for you guys that have ever had to put down your best friend, I've had to go that route several times, and it hurts every time. You need to understand it going in when you are looking at that cute little pup, if you don't have the heart to end his misery when it can't be fixed, you have no business getting a dog (or cat) in the first place. BTW snow in March sucks bad.

Had the knee done yesterday, no walking on it for a couple weeks. The Dr. says it's all good and the damage was not as bad as he had feared, as soon as I can put weight on it I'll post some pic.'s.

Thanks for all the good thoughts, the knee seems to be the worst of it, torn ACL and medial maniscus, they want to scope it. The ankle is fine, if not a little sore still. After seeing Gnosez car, I feel like I only got a door ding. Like Spicoli said,"I can fix it." It was heading into the paint shop anyway and with only 18 days till spring the tear down will start soon. Worst case, I'll turn her into a track car.

Wasn't going that fast, but was going very fast for the road I was on, about 60 to 70 mph. The car has stiff coilovers and 235/14 BF Goodrich tires, she usually sticks to the road really well. The terrain launched the car once I got into the grass at least 2 or 3 feet and I came down on the rock sideways on the second or third bounce. If there was anything in my way like a tree or pole, that would have been my a$$. Stupid, yes...Lucky, hell yes!

Hagerty was great, I learned a trick long ago that is worth sharing if you think they will total your car. Park the car in such a way that the adjuster can't get really good pictures of the damage, only allow them angles that make it look really bad. I parked mine between two pickup trucks so he couldn't get full on side views of the car, as a result that door sticking out made the damage look much much worse than it really is. When they put it up on salvage auction it went off really low and made the buy back as painless as possible. As far as driving technique, Z's do not like sand and gravel when on tight curves, the front tires didn't give an inch, the rears on the other hand.....Let's just say I was going backwards before I could get to the brakes.

Broken ankel, tore up my knee and a nice shiner, other than that just bumps & bruises. The car is what really hurt.

Well, I haven’t been here for a couple months, and there’s a good reason, I up and crashed my Z and have been so sick about it I couldn’t bring myself to go into the garage or come to this site. I was driving the car HARD and it got away from me doing a 180 and leaving the pavement, taking air, and landing on top of a huge bolder that crushed the passenger side rocker and floor pan. The door was spared, but the top of the door sticks out about 3 inches at the top of the window frame. Remarkably the door still opens and closes and the car can still be driven around, I parked it in the garage after SLOWLEY driving it home from the tow yard. There are some suspension pops and clicks but the alignment really doesn’t seem to be out judging from the steering wheel and the chase car reporting no crab walking. Considering all 4 wheels were off the ground when the flatbed showed up, I’m kind of amazed by that. Anyway, once the weather warms up and the leg gets a bit stronger. I’ll tare it down and see how bad the damage really is, the insurance estimate was over $9000, so they totaled it and gave me a salvage title, but I‘m sure I can fix her. Once I get into it I’ll be looking for opinions on the damage

So sad to hear, I wish E God speed, and all my thoughts and prayers to his family. I was only privileged enough to have some PM exchanges with E after he hit me with infractions for going political, harsh language or pushing a point with another member. One exchange in particular, back in December of 2010 sticks out in my memory, we went back and forth about politics on the forum. E struck me as a fair minded man that was more concerned with where things would go rather than what has already been said or done. In our brief correspondence he earned my respect for the way he represented himself and explained his actions. I feel like I lost a friend even though I never met or spoke with the man, Via Con Dios E……..

FWIW, I'm running P235/60R 14's (0 offset) with a stock vallance and stock ride height. I only get rubbing up front with the wheels turned all the way to the right when backing up. there was a slight rub in the back on big bumps before I installed the new struts and Cosmo Racing springs (super stiff ride). I can adjust the ride height down about 1.5 inches before I get any rubbing in forward driving, but I like the car sitting up high for street use.

How does it run with the air filter installed? If the tuning is too far out the air filter(s) make a difference.

A while ago someone started a thread about an old Japanese guy that was building an all aluminum Z. The thread and links never continued past a door the guy built. This morning I went to a local Cars and Coffee in Hunt Valley, MD and saw a hand made beauty like this. (not this, or these cars) The entire body is polished aluminum, no coating, just raw aluminum. It was friggin amazing and I wish I could have a Z like this, that is untill it comes to detail day. The owner of the car I saw today is also one of the owners of the company that builds the bodies (or so he said) a 427 SCJ Cobra replicar. Pictures do not do this thing justice. Anyway, has anyone seen the progress on the aluminum 240z?

I've been to that bridge, it's just outside Butler, PA if I recall. What a great pic of the Z, how did you get it so far back in the woods and keep it that clean?

I have a set that came off of my 6-73, and the bumper too. PM me if you can't find a set.

Having two 30+year old cars can be costly if you need one to be a DD at all times. With limited funds at hand I get a driver, fix the 260 toy and sell the 2+2. My daddy is dead.

I finally got a chance to install the Captain Obvious cam oiler kit. I bought the kit from Bruce in stead of shipping him my bar and letting him do the work to limit my down time. So as promised here is the write-up. I started by cranking the motor over with the stock bar in place and noting the oil flow, just to make sure the modified bar is as good as the stock stuff after the modification is completed. [] Here is the stock oiler as she sat, you can see its bent and not properly aligned to the cam. It did however spray oil on the cam, and provide good lubrication. After removing the bar I did a valve adjustment, it was faster and easier to do the adjustments with the bar out of the way. I started with the rear tube and worked my way to the front, first removing and cleaning the individual tubes from the stock blocks and fitting the tubes to the new blocks. Bruce’s directions are clear and complete, I just followed them completely and the whole job went smooth as silk. Once the tubes were cleaned, I removed the end caps from the block side of the tube, Bruce recommended drilling them out on a lathe, I used a torch to melt the solder and popped them out with a hook pick and reamed out the residual solder. I then turned down the outside diameter of the tube to 0.300 to within 0.040 of the first oil port as per Bruce’s direction. You could do this without a lathe if you had to, but a lathe makes the job quick and easy. It also makes the cleaning and straightening of the tubes a snap. After the tubes were prepped and fitted I removed the tab of metal behind the oil input port on the tubes, Bruce didn’t mention this, but when I looked at the tube in the block there was a bit of interference so cutting away that bit of metal would insure full flow. I slipped a drill bit down the oil passage in the block, tightened the brass fitting to final tightness and inserted the tubes over the drill bit shank to index the spray holes. I then marked the tubes and fittings, removed them from the blocks and soldered the tubes and fittings together. After applying Blue Loctite, I installed the tubes into the blocks. I then reamed out the center bracket to accept the long tubes and installed it on the cam tower. Then I did a test fit of the rear bar, I noticed it was tight on the center cam tower, so I removed the bar and trimmed the end down about 1/16 inch to give me extra clearance for heat expansion, this just made the end cap flush end of the tube and didn’t require any soldering or special operations, just ground the excess tubing off and inspected the solder joint. Repeat on the front bar. Installed everything with the included gaskets and spun the motor to check for leaks and see how the oil spray pattern looks. Wow, what a difference, the straitened bar now hits the center of each lobe and I get like 25% more oil to the cam over the flow of the stock blocks. I had removed straitened and cleaned the stock bar just weeks before getting Bruce’s kit, so I know the stock bar was at full flow with no restrictions when I spun the motor before starting with the modification. You can see in the last pic the difference in the ammount of oil clinging to the cam after spinning the motor, granted the oil was hot in the before pic, but still its a big difference. Total time spent was under 3 hours from valve cover off to valve cover on. The valve train has never been quieter and the valves were not in bad need of adjustment only two needed a slight twist. I AM VERY IMPRESSED WITH THE RESULTS!! THANKS BRUCE!!

Another good place to look.

Look to see if you threw a wheel weight, Thats much more likely than a sudden drive train problem, shafts and axels usually make noises before developing the shakes.

Actually there are alot of options for Jelly, I googled "Dog Saftey" and found one for Ruger (my Rottie) He's not allowed in the Z though. It has two anchors that attach to the lap belt portion of the Toyota truck's belt and that connects to a chest harness. I don't recall who makes it, but it keeps him off my lap, allows enough freedom for him to poke his head out the window (great for passing bikers) and will keep him off the dash if I crash.

I think he's looking for one of P.T.Barnum's boys. If some fool is willing to pay, why not take his money.

They aint cracks, their canyons!

I would point out that both of the above were likley saved from the crusher, and are no longer Z's.

I was going to suggest that very thing, you can sometimes get away with running the plug through the MIP die backwards. You will loose the taper on the plug threads, but a good sealent like locktite thread sealer will do the trick on a low pressure or vac circuit. I wouldn't use this fix on a fuel system though.

It's a metric thread, just a little smaller than the MIP thread. I don't remember the exact size and pitch but you wont find these in many hardware stores, I got some at an automotive shop that deals with japanese performance motors. Might try the Nissan Dealer.