5thhorsemann

I'm not a fan of any of these cars for one reason or another, price mostly on the first two, the copper car is a bondo queen from the pics amoung other things.

mikrosa, am I to understand you know that guy and the car?

Bonzi, I had the same problem on my 73. I taped a shop vac hose to the intake and surged the vac by opening and closing the interior controle. Worked like a champ.

Agreed, you're cheapest, fastest and best end result is to go with a set of stock SU round top carbs. Have never heard anyone say they have a reliable 4BBL driver.

I would pull the column cover and snoop around for worn or pinched wiring, and pop the horn pad off to see if you have a floater under there. Give us the year and model, could be a common problem for some. Search FSM, and find your downloadable version herein.

Okay fellas, pump your brakes. Anybody here actually willing to cough up $5K for these things and bolt them up to your car? I think of Conedogers handle every time I get behind the wheel and think of myself as createrdodger. I'm struggling with the thought of putting 16" wheels on in place of the existing 14" for fear of hurting them on these crappy American roads. Using the above math, I could put new rubber, rims and paint on my car for the price of a set of used 1975 rims. I UNDERSTAND the historical significance and heritage of the wheels, I do, however these wheels, like any Picasso, belong on a museum piece, not a street car. And I’m still choakin…………..

I have been to the seasonal swaps, but not since I sold the 66 Olds. Never paid much attention to the import stuff, I find you have to focous on what you are looking for or you won't make it through the grounds in one day.

26th, I'm choaking on that number. I suppose that if I were that obsessed with a car that I would drop 5 grand on a set of wheels, my girlfriend would have a net thrown over me and I would do hard time in a rubber room. Now if you have the original car, and those wheels make an $80,000 car worth $90 or $100,000, I could see it. But like I said, I'm chokin'.

I just printed this thread and put it in the crate with my new 5 speed, just in case I can't find the thread when I do the swap. As long as the car is running as good as it is, I refuse to screw around with a great thing.

$4551, I'd say they REALLY REALLY want them.

Dry is the way to go on all the intake gaskets, If you are that cheap, you can always cut your own from rolled gasket material (guilty) except the intake/ exhaust gasket of course. I always make sure I have a spare intake/ exhaust and valve cover gasket on hand as they are sometimes hard to find as in stock items.

Hope it's a winner, would be one lucky car.

;)If you want you can ship them to me and I'll road test them on my car.

I still say that if you are going to get another early car, you need to take the buy back optionon this one. There are thousands of dollars in used parts on that disfigured beauty you will need or want to transplant to the next car. You can call the new one Frankinstine and think of Ol' Yeller when you get behind the wheel.

Inspirational ending, I want some cheese.

Tell me you are going to do a buy back on the car and build again.

If you are seeing between 12 and 14 volts you are good to go, if it gets any higher than 15.5V, or lower than 12V you have a problem.

Can you saw out the strut shaft and get the spring out without pressure on the spring?

Damn dude, I'm speachless, SOOOOO SORRY.

Another update, after the last fuel calculation I read the plugs, pretty lil rosebuds across the board. I have also run two tanks of fuel thru her, a full tank today alone, both driven out at about 50/50 highway and city. The results seem to be as stated above, roughly 23 MPG. So thats 3 mpg above what I was getting. We are getting set to switch to summer blend fuel in Maryland, which has higher alcohol content among other things. I plan to track my fuel economy numbers and see what happens, because the last time I did the economy math we MAY have still been on summer blend, we shall see.

I think I saw this car in Lusby, MD last fall. I did a walk around and if its the same one it's solid but has had mud work and a repaint that is easily noticable. $5500 is a bit high, but it is a V8 car, so if you are into that then maby.

We learn from fixing eachothers problems, so educations are a direct result of these posts. I consider myself to be a very skilled mechanic, and find these threads very educational still.

I paid $750 for mine in this condition. Less the new rubber and the front bumper was on when I bought it. Very little rust and I drove it home using a plastic gas jug strapped to the battery pan to eliminate the clogged electric kicker pump, and its a 240 with under 40k original miles.(at time of sale)

Looks like it's been sitting in the weather for more than ten years, seriously, you can do much, much better for $800.00. That’s almost in pay to have it hauled away shape, I can't imagine that the frame is still in tact on this car.

I've seen worse, but you are looking at the top side only, you need to check out the "frame". Look in the front fender well area, also the floor pans inside and out. Either way there is ALOT of work there. If the floor and frame rails are rusted, offer a few hundred bucks as a parts car. If the floor and frame rails look good, offer a few hundred bucks as a parts car......... Check that, I just saw the new picks, she's a nasty wh0re, run away.