5thhorsemann

Ummmmmm, isn't the UK flag red white and blue? I'm just sayin..............

You would do well to post an attachment picture. Or, you can go to the gallery and look at some early Z pics and see if you can ID your bumper.

Yes, the regulator is the problem.

Positive crankcase vent, "You no blockie Joe", should go to a PCV valve in the manifold crossover tube on the SU's. No clue on what to do with the tripples..........

Maby the same guy that did the Foam Car........................

That looks more like it, I'm in the market for a hood without the scoop, of which I'm not a fan. This thread caught my eye for that reason, I would be supprised if that hood would even accept latch gear.

Your Alt is full feilding and overloading the radio, 17V at the battery will cause more and more problems as time goes on. I would upgrade to the internally regulated alt. although I don't know if it's the same as upgrading the 240Z, but it solved a host of electrical issues when I changed mine over.

Also check to ensure the exhaust isn't hitting the floor pan, as mine was.

Test the alternator to see if you are "full feilding" or seeing more than 14 volts at the battery terminals.

That Haynes manual is kindling, search FSM and you will find a downloadable version herein. I would recommend you buy the Z therapy SU carb tuning video if your carb skills are as bad as you say. There is (are) no accelerator pump(s) on the SU carbs, so pumping the pedal does nothing but allow more air into the system. Also, put the air cleaner(s) back on and try to start it, the additional vacuum will draw more fuel into the manifolds. Also, drain the tank and use that gas in your lawn mower, there is a plug at the bottom of the tank. This will show how much crap is in the tank. While you are down there inspect the hoses, specifically the vent hoses that run through the cars interior behind the tail light cover panel. Make sure the hoses are soft and pliable, if they are hard and rotten they are a fire hazard and will allow (more) fumes to enter the cabin. Then check to see if there is an electric pusher pump near the passenger side wheel well in front of the tank. Some of the pumps have filters inside, that may be clogged, or the pump itself may not work which will restrict or even prevent flow. This is standard stuff to do on the purchase of an old S30. .

Asking for pic's of triples gets a bunch of replies, wonder why that is..............

Can you post a really good pic of the carbs and balance tube? Is the 800 RPW with or without choke? Is the choke even functional? The heat and vent temp thing is normal. I think your not adjusting the carbs correctly. Set the idle speed at opperating temp.

Octain rating is an expression of the amount of pressure carburated fuel will withstand before it detonates without the presence of an ignition source at a certin ambiant temp. So high compression engines require high octain fuel. Nitro meth has an octain of 1000+ but the combustion yeild is relatively low, its for high compression supercharged engines. This is a simplified explanation, but our Z motors are low compression. With the alcohol we get at the pump here in the good old US of A, I find that I get some ping on hot days and run on after a hard run with low octain gas.

Gotta love the dual front tags.

Now why would you want to beat on the hood?

Did they really cut out the rear structure of the hood when mounting the cowl like this guy did? I saw one at a car show some years back where the owner had the hood louvered so the cowl could be removed and the engine bay would still breath. I personally liked the cowl off look better.

Did you check the classified adds, I recall seeing a full set of early belts there recently. Also, do you need the right or left side?

The Ghost Rider.........ROTFLMAO................

Yea, with the builder in it. Hey, speaking of ugly Z mod's, what ever happened to "The Klingon" ? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42889-Dual-Weber-Pictures-Hello&highlight=klingon

The after shot is after the dent, not after the repair. My thinking is that the hood will have to come off and be beaten back into shape by means of hammer, dolly and Budwiser. That damn brace at the leading edge of the hood is going to be a real PITA to get rite. if I can't get that strait the grill opening will look bent. I'm not looking forward to doing this repair.

I have got to paint my car, just so many other things to do first. It makes me sick, but I love the way your silver laid down, it's my favorite color on a Z.

Is it that you can't (lack know-how) make your own, or your just too lazy (won't) to make one. Seems like an easy enough thing to make out of 0.040 aluminum.

Look on the bright side, at least you can peg your speedo, I've seen 115. There ain't no way on gods green earth I'll ever see 160 cause at 115 thats all there is and there ain't no more.

Some times you just have to do things twice, no easy way around it. Could it be that you installed the joint with the zerk facing the shaft in stead of the yoke? Meaning is there clearence on the opposite side?

Thats it, post #3, must have posted at the same time I did.