5thhorsemann

Oil filter check valve? Doesnt that prevent the oil from draining back to the pan through the supply journals in these motors? oil flow.doc

I had a 280 myself, sold it back in the 80's, I was just wondering why he prefers the 280 over the 60 or 40, or why he is limiting his search to the 280 only. Considering the comparable simplicity of the earlier cars.

Why a 280 over a 240 or 60? I read almost every S30 post on this site, and it seems to me that the 280's EFI system is the source of alot more problems than the early carburated cars suffer from. Just wondering why you're thinking of a later car.

I just finished doing a valve adjustment, they were getting a bit noisy and all the talk lately about wiped cams and busted spray bars had me nervous as a whore in church. The valves were out a few thousands each, corrected that. The spray bar was leaking at the towers a bit so I refit the covers and put them back together using a very light film of LocTite gasket sealent. The spray bar is a real POS, it has loose braise joints and the tower castings are warped so I called Larry Hassler to find out about the billet bar, no answer, left a message. (Thanks John) I am thinking of doing a cam swap, but the car runs so damn good that I cant see taking it apart right now. Besides the fact that MSA is not selling the rockers rite now. I'll share the info when he returnes my call.

Anyone know where to source the billet spray bar?

Damn, that thing is just plain sexy. I can't park my girl anywhere near yours for fear of giving her a complex.

Looks like the ppg Cortez Yellow I put on my 68 Super Bee, accents against the black trim the same way.

Could be a bent clutch fork draging in thr T/O bearing

Sweet

Rap music took diction down long ago. My bad.

Sunlight, I need to fix that roof before the weather hits, hopefully this year. 4 broken ribs set me back 2 months on my Honey-do list.

Gear reduction aids in high compression engine starts. If you don't have an accelerator pump, the motor will take more cranking to draw fuel at cold starts. I like the stock starter on a basically stock motor.

Agreed, but educations aren't exactly free, just read all those broken bolt and burnt wiring threads. Man, looking back I've paid alot for my know-how over the years.

I'm guilty, but not for a lack of trying.

It's a good idea to lay all the parts out on a clean white linnin prior to starting assembly. Helps keep you honest, and lessens the chance you will miss something.

I think you meant to say "Long pants", or is this some kind of nudest event.

Before I upgraded the alternator I had a noise that behaved like that, a low wine that came in around 2500 and increased with RPM, but it was there regardless of what gear the car was in or how fast I was moving. Or even parked.

The mods listed are all well documented around here, including the transmission which has a 5th gear, reason for the mod and it's not going to be an issue. if no one else will say it, I will, 250 HP my a$$. Go drive it and see how it runs, it looks decent. Cruse the S30 body forums and check out the common rust issues the 240's suffer from and check those locations on the body for cancer, or evidence of repair. Not being able to test drive the car is worth $1000 or more off the top, because it has a problem somewhere, and it ain’t a tag or insurance problem. Like Zed Head said (good Dr. Sues rime) the $25,000 is some B.S. number he pulled out of the sky to shield against the anticipated brutality he knows he will face on the $5000 asking price. Stop with the email negotiations and go see the car in person with $4000 in ten dollar bills in your pocket. If the car impresses you, and isn’t a rust bucket or a total shade tree bastard, see if you can beat him down to a better price and buy it and haul it out of his possession on the spot so he can’t change his mind. Start negotiating around 50% or so of your final offer if it looks like something you want to own. BTW, the flairs and spoilers take away from the value of the car also, even if that is what you want at the end of the day.

You mean no one makes the heavy rubber reusable gaskets? That explains why I can't find one.

Just what the title asks.

HOLY CRAP!!! $13,100, reserve not met!!! I contacted the seller to see what the money is like.

72 OJ, this is really the best place on the net that I have found to get info and experienced advice on my 73, not that the car is that complex, just saves time and money that others have wasted. When I first found this site I pissed a few of the locals off and made their ignore lists, that has not worked to my benefit. My advice to you, which may be some of the best advice you will get around here, “play nice with the old timers” Those with hundreds or thousands of posts are some really smart guys, and like I said, they WILL save you some time and money. That said, type in sentences, use Caps and punctuation, convey your thoughts clearly and include pictures. You will catch a lot of flies with honey around here. Not worth fighting the chat room battle with these old dogs, trust me.////////

Coming down to the wire at $11,500, I wonder what the reserve is.

As I recall the original washers are sprung (dished) to compensate for heat expansion as well. I would (did) order a new set. they're all over ebay and the local dealer had them as well. Cheap enough to go stock on this one.

I can't fight in the bumper wars.............................No ammo. Besides, they're all eye sores as far as I'm concerned.