5thhorsemann

$9200.00 Reserve not met, Wonder if this one will go, and for how much. As for the bumpers, it's just that the silver makes them look even bigger than they are. If I were to buy one of these cars I wouldn't look for one with good paint, cause those monsters would be gone the first hour I had it.

I get a kick out of how some people can pick photos apart when looking to buy a car on the web, a talent that sadly I do not have. It's like I have the “what it should be goggles” on, or may be these are things that can be so easily remedied that I just go right by them. Or may be that I have some form of retardation or ADD that doesn’t allow me to see these things. (Likely closer to the truth) Either way, when the money gets that high, all I can see are those massive bumpers. Looks like a protective package for shipping the car, something that you would pull off on Christmas morning. Anyway, it looks like the bidding has temporarily stopped at $6100. Bet it will pick up again on the last day.

I agree with the Isky recommendation. I've never asked them about a Z, but I've used them on Ford and Dodge builds and their knowlege and parts were awesom stuff.

More oil is good I would think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-POST-LIFT-9000-LB-Overhead-Car-Lift-Auto-Hoist-/220908413462?hash=item336f2ae216&item=220908413462&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr Forget the cabinets, get one of these. I'm looking for a used 2 poster locally to beat the shipping costs.

Well, I've always been a fan of German engineering. But (butt) the Japanese have put out some awesome stuff as well. You can tell this is someone’s photo shopped attempt at humor. If it were real, the boobs would be bigger and plumper in the German model, and the butt would be bonier in the Jap car.

Blue, did you run that guy over on purpose? Tell me you didn't back over him!

Look around for a local reseller of used comercial fixturing. Lots and lots of retailers and repair shops going under. Buy professional stuff for pennies on the dollar.

grantf, you are sounding a bit bitter in your rant, are you an OWS'er?

I hope you guys are right, I bought a Qt. and I hope it will do the pans, sounds like it should be enough.

Thanks guys.

I want to coat some areas of the belly with POR-15 before the government starts dumping carcinogens all over the roads this winter. I don't want to over buy the POR, it is pricey. My question; what is the coverage, in Sq. Ft. for a quart of this stuff, or how much did it take to do one drivers side floor pan within and without. (inside and outside)

I applied the nickel-never seize only to the three leading threads and used a torque wrench to set the bolts. Steel on steel, agreed. But I'm not relying on corrosion to hold a mechanical fastener in place on anything, least of all a motor. Also keep in mind that threads lubricated with never seize will give you a smother and more accurate torque value, so stay at the middle or lower end of the recommended torque range for that connection to avoid damaging the hardware. It has been my experience/ observation, that overtorquing a steel thread against an aluminum thread is at the heart of most broken bolts and studs. I'm not sure if the heat developed during torquing causes the gauling of the threads, or the overtorquing causes the softer thread to crack and deform causing the gauling. I do know that if you prep every female thread with a tap and every male thread with a die and torque the hardware appropriately, you will eliminate 99% of the potential problems that cause the fastener breakage in the future, Besides, if you read the OP, the stud was broken during the installation of the manifolds, which means the part was overtorqued and likely destroyed the aluminum threads before the steel snapped. This is just a result of bad practices by the mechanic .

Sounds like the check valve in the thumper pump is leaking and beginning to fail. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8674 These are the pumps that were installed on the 240's to eliminate the vapor lock issue. The problem with the cyntrifugal pumps (I've heard) is you need to run a regulator to get that low pressure that the SU likes. By the time you get the CF pump and reg, you're way above the price of the Facet pump. Just MHO.

If I "roll" any of these cars, I would wish I was dead afterwards, protection or not. The only Porsche I ever owned was a 914 EFI. The fuel pump failed on it and the Bosch replacement was like $5 or $600 bucks. It was a fun car, but EXPENSIVE to maintain, and not nearly as fun as the 240Z. I likened the 914 to having a teenage son, always the risk of a big unexpected expense everytime it leaves the house. I expect the other Porsche's are the same.

Awesom

The math is wrong, It's not e squared (to the 2nd power). It's (e2), as in H (O2), or H+O+O chemistry expression for water. Wish I knew how to get my computer to type these things in mathematical terms.

That is a stunning example of automotive design, and all your hard work shows. That said, why not paint the wheel weights to give a little camouflage and make them go away?

I can't believe you didn't hear this going on, it had to make a lot of racket. There's no going back with that cam. I don't know much about regrinding cams, but it almost looks like the cam lost it's temper and gauled up with the rocker, once the rocker lost it's temper the soft metals just ate each other up. I'm not saying the cam grinder is at fault, but I'd go that bet before a stuck valve. I do believe that you need to heat treat the cam after you grind it to reestablish the correct hardness

Looks like it got pretty hot, I would go for a new cam or if there is a valve issue, a complete head if I could find one. Ouch!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-jig-bushing-liners/=f7ebbd http://www.mcmaster.com/#end-mills/=f7eeqb http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-repair-inserts/=f7egtq If you use the mating part (manifold) to fabricate a template out of 1/2 inch aluminum stock that bolts to the good fasteners and place the hardened bushing in the hole for the broken or stripped fastener, you will get a really accurate repair. You can use this method to fix the crooked or offset hole you made trying to work around the distributor, just use an endmill instead of the drill bit. I would use a drill press to get the template set up to increase the straitness of the alignment bushing.

B(e x 2)r = P (e x 2) x 2 ?

If you really want a car like that, make a lowball offer and preface it with logic like I stated above and leave a name and number, you might get the car for less than you think. This is afterall an old custom job that needs a refresh to be all it should be and that will cost you a good bit of cash on top of the purchase price. Work him and see what you can get him down to, I'm sure that potential buyers aren't busting his door down 3 weeks before Christmas in this economy.

$6000. would be the limit, I would start between $35 and $4000. because it is a tinker toy, and I know I would be braking stuff on a car like that all the time.

I think you need to go to hybirdZ with this one, looks like a Space 1999 car to most of us, as far as a Z goes. Everyone around here is running a L motor. FWIW, swap cars are going for less than a comprable "stock" just because parts are easier to identify and replace. Personally, I think I would insult the guy if I were to make an offer.