5thhorsemann

Coming together nicely, can't wait to see it painted.

Thanks for the info Zed Head, helpfull stuff

My bad, I was thinking 240 dash.

Not a fan of the painted spokes, looks................goopy........clumpy..............too thick...........just not right.

Powder coat gloss black hub and rim with polished stainless steel spokes would be my choice. I'm sure the spokes can be found in stainless somewhere.

Trust me, with a clean 30 amp circuit and the relays powering a set of modern halon bulbs you can see just fine. I'm going to add a set of PIAA projector driving lights in the spring, I installed a seperate relay for them when I did the headlight relays. That is the only reason I'm not going for these, I wish this offer was made 6 months ago, I would have been top of the list.

That answers that.

Bump the thread, can't find any info in my manuals or thread searches. HELP!

Post pics!

Can you show a complete dash pic? That looks like some kind of cover to me, so I think you have a trashed dash under a cover.

I suspect Fast woman has hit the nail on the head, a project to address if the dash ever has to come out for more pressing reasons.

Well, I guess thats good and bad, it means one less thing to fix, but cold air blowing on my hands all winter long. (sigh).......................I HATE F#$KING WINTER!

It's getting cold out so I hooked the heater core back up just now. I get hot air out of the defrost dash vents, but the gimbel vents and the center console vents blow cold. It looks like the flapper duct valves are actuating but they dont change things much. I did remove an aftermarket AC unit, would that change the hot air flow? Do I need something to take the place of the AC evaporator box?

The rear window defroster on my 73 is in excellent condition, and still doesn't work worth a damn. If you are looking to upgrade, do the whole system, it's hard to immagine you would be disapointed.

There is a Z on the cover, the center bottom pic. Looks pretty radical.

I just was doing a thread search and I realized that the above assumptions may or rather are flawed. I made these assumptions based on how the pinion housing was installed by the PO. Is the slot that is cut in the housing designed to accept the keep bracket? I just moved the housing to that position, and the fitment looked perfect, but with the torn up pinion the speedo doesn't work at all. This is driving me crazy, and without a good part to install I can't get this out of my head.

So I've been having speedo problems of late and decided to check out the speedo drive pinion. Upon removal I noticed the housing is not keyed and it has an eccentric or offset pinion shaft boar. As I rotate it 360 degrees (the housing), I can feel the pinion gear engage and disengage at certain locations as I turn it. Now at this point my pinion gear is trash, so no matter where I index it, it will not drive the speedo for long (this being the problem I am experiencing). I will get a new pinion this week, but my real question here is, where is the gear that drives the pinion in relation to the center of the hole? (12 o’clock’, 3 o’clock, etc.) I realize the eccentric housing is such to accommodate the larger and smaller gears, but none of my manuals contain information on how to index the housing thereby timing the pinion to the drive gear. That said, I need a new pinion, my tire size is P235/60-14, they are 24 inches tall. What would be the most accurate size pinion 16 tooth, 17 tooth, etc. It had a 16 tooth which I think is the original, but the PO was running P225/60 -14’s and may have changed it. I’m thinking a 17 tooth may be more accurate with the taller tire, what do ya’ll think?

As a side note, I'm 46 years old and I'm STILL an excluded driver on my parents insurance policy.

It's all about attitude, and the Z has plenty. If your son is anything like I was at that age you need to tear that car apart and do a father-son 4 year restoration project. Let him cut his teeth on another car and get the hormone level down a little before you turn him loose on the rest of us in the Z (which has more than enough speed and power to get him hurt or killed).

Not much, there are running turbo cars in that condition going for around $1500, so I would put yours under a grand.

Picks of the "bubbling" would help.

No zdude, it won't bolt up, the lower brackets on the 240 grill face outboard, where the 260's face inboard. I took a 240 and 260 grill and used the three long grill slats from each to make a full grill which dosen't have the grill pockets. I used the 260 vertical supports but had to swap the lower corner brackets from the 240 to make the thing work without modifing thr car. If you look closely you can see the 260 brackets in the pic, and how they turn in, where the 240 you have turnes out. Being the pack rat that I am I still have the 260 brackets, they are easy enough to swap out, PM me if you need em, just pay shipping and they are yours.

I bought a 4 wire, that deal fell through. I have the late 73 which takes a three wire tach, which I bought in this auction but he shipped me the wrong set of gauges. I know the tach is wrong but I think the speedo might be okay, although I don't recall that lil' box on the back of my existing speedo. Hope to get to this project (the speedo) today, If it's not going to work in my car, it will save me a drive to the other shop later, any thoughts?

Which is why I recommended taking it to a shop, an old timer showed me how to with the plastigauge under a shim made out of feeler gauge material spun through the gears to measure lash. Hense the PITA.

Does it light when you toggle it at the lense like on a 240?