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5thhorsemann

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Everything posted by 5thhorsemann

  1. I think the problem, if you want to call it a problem, is the sending unit being located in the radiator. I think you should move it to the stock L28 location for a more accurate temp reading, I think you are reading post cooled water, for lack of a better way of saying it.
  2. You have a bad ground on one or more of the running lights and you are seeing a back voltage where the lights are grounding back through the dash lights. I had a similar problem before I cleaned everything and wired in the headlight relays. Couldnt say where the problem was, just stopped doing it once all the grounds were cleaned.
  3. Never saw a set of dual points on a Z, so sorry for speaking out of my league, I only had experience with performance DP distributors on American cars.
  4. I would have a really tough time selling that car, or should I say parting with it.
  5. You can drop the tank and cut out the repair (be sure to put a garden hose in it and fill it /flush it with water to dislace any gas vapor first) inspect the inside and address any problems. Then weld in a patch and etch and seal the inside. Then you will at least know what you have is solid.
  6. Set the fuel bottle up like an I.V. and hang it above the motor 2 or 3 feet. As for the points, if one is oxidized alot more than the other, the full load will go through the clean set.
  7. Great info Blue, as always. I have a 4" lathe and some solid core PVC stock thats 1" thick. I think I'll try turning out a set similar to example 11. Good stuff.
  8. Contact your local speed shop to locate a mechanic with one of the road force ballancers. Also, make sure to check your tires for roundness while they are on the balancer, 14" tires are notorious for being oblong.
  9. Blue, I like the bell mouth doughnut, They would kill alot of the birds that concern me with one stone, do you know of a supplier?
  10. I just dont want a stack thats too high, or that fits too closely to the filter cover, also not all that intrested in spending $100 for a set.
  11. So I've done some searching, and can't find the answer I'm looking for so I'll just ask the experts. (Shameless ego stroking, isn't it) The car is a 73, original motor with 72 RT carbs and intake. I'm running the dual K&N round air filters, 3 1/4 inches deep. What are the best power cones to install in the K&N filters? Is anyone using this setup with success?
  12. I put the duralast kits in my front & rear brakes, Brake and clutch M/C's and clutch slave cylinders with no issues, go for it.
  13. I don't see how brake fluid can get into the cabin thru the booster, I think you should persue the M/C bleed and go from there.
  14. Dip your finger in white paint and grind it into the balancer all the way around. You will find the marks.
  15. GreenZZZ, looks amazing, excellent work, you get an at-a-boy on the tubing and a thanks..............Just so it doesn't feel thankless...............
  16. So let me get this strait, you went and looked at the car, that's how you got the SN for the thread heading, correct? So since you've seen it and, I assume, did some inspection, please share your observations as to it's condition. The guys looking for the build date specific cars, know when this car was produced based on the 00854 number. As a parts car, even a Dec. 69 car, I still would not go to check it out, using that add as a basis to decide, for the reasons I mentioned above. It's been my experience that sellers that post add's with filthy barn cars and high prices are selling just that, filthy barn cars with inflated values.
  17. Some better bets http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/6126/title/-2773-240z-for-sale/cat/1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-1971-Datsun-240Z-Rare-Colors-L24-5SPD-Clear-Title-/270842624735?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3f0f7a7adf http://www.dragtimes.com/classifieds-viewer.php?itemID=180746671241 http://www.dragtimes.com/classifieds-viewer.php?itemID=220883206476 http://cars.oodle.com/view/nisson-240z/2779075125-austinville-va/ http://www.project240z.com/Blog/itemId/458/1973-Datsun-240z-For-Sale.aspx
  18. If you are looking to part the car out and make a little cash, $150 is a good number. By the time you haul it home, strip it down, assess the parts you can sell, scrap the junk, market the goodies, deal with all the questions, package and ship the stuff that DOES sell, and so on, your gold mine still isn't WORTH $1800. Judging from the fact that the owner isn't even willing to hose the thing off, the fact that the windows are open in that barn environment, the fact that the car looks to have been left that way for a decade or more, I would think it a streatch to call it a gold mine. Not even worth a look with such a high number attached.
  19. My Z has only a 10 inch glass pack at the end of the 2 inch pipe that starts at the header, it is loud. But I drive with respect in populated areas. Perhaps respect is the key.
  20. I'll say it needs some TLC, or is a TLC, TOTALLY LOST CAUSE. I wouldn't give $180.00 for that POS, this car likely is a poster child for "where to look for common rust areas on a HLS30".
  21. I think the fact that you have to worry about the neighbors screwing with your stuff is more of an issue than the car living outside. My neighbors and I watch each others backs like hawks, if anything happens at the ranch while I'm not around my phone will be ringing off the preverbal hook. Likewise, if I see something strange going on in the hood, I put my boots on and go check it out. Must be in an apartment complex where everyone "minds their own business" a pity really.
  22. Buy a camera and take and post some pics, we always love to see the cars we are talking about around here.
  23. Air ride is too gushy for a sports car, I believe he has Ground Control or similar adjustable coils, as do I. Great job on the 240, just a thought, put an indicator light on those electric fans so you can tell that they are running/ getting power. Save the blown head gasket from overheating if they fail, voice of experience talking here. Just jump a red led with a resistor over the supply fuse or breaker, if the fuse blows the led will light up and let you know the cooling fans are kaput. BTW, take it to a shop and have them strip out the old tint (which is a PITA) and re tint the windows with the right shades of black or smoked tint to keep you legal and guaranteed. It’s well worth the money to let a pro do it, and it will look sharp and classy like it does now.
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