5thhorsemann

The valance is where you will rub, if it is gone, you should have no problem. I'm running 235/60 14's all the way around, rubbed on all 4 corners due to weak springs, replaced the front springs which eliminated 90% of the contact. once I finish the rears, should no longer be a problem. So, if you have soft springs, you might rub a bit.

I disagree with the bushing being the problem, unless it's locked on the shaft and spun in the housing. Even then, the housing would get so hot that it would come apart in short order. I would also recommend that you take the part to someone else to have it looked at by fresh eyes. Your expert doesn't sound so hot to me. You do know what an expert is, right? EX-SPERT; An EX is a has-been and a SPERT is a drip under pressure.

I built a speaker box that sits over the spare tire well and straps down in the hatch. That way you can use basically any set of speakers you want and it can be unpluged and removed easily to do housekeeping or maintenance opperations. They also make a tail light cover panel to accomodate speakers. If you are dead set on using the vent panels, I don't think you need to worry about explosions, the vapor to air ratio required to create an explosion is pretty high, and would drive you out of the cockpit. Exhaust fumes, if already a problem, will likely worsten.

I think you are not getting enough fuel, check your filter and blow out the lines. You aren't having the problem at lower speeds/ gears because you are smart enough not to run those RPM's in lower gears for an extended time.

If the entire housing is moving, you have a bent shaft or coupling somewhere. I would say that this will come to a head at some point, which will likely require a rollback. I would replace the whole thing.

Talk about the media overhyping and crying wolf, Irene was a fart in the wind compared to the juggernaut they were warning of. The better safe than sorry, excuses are no excuse. When the next one comes, and it really is a killer storm, no one will take the appropriate measures because the media, much like our government has lost all credibility when it comes to these things. I liken it to the way the government passes these prophylactic laws that erode our freedoms, and they simply say it was for your own good when the laws fail to do what they said they passed it to accomplish in the first place. Maby Obama should form a commission to study the benefits of declaring a war on Irene

I still don't understand what you mean by wobble, is it the center shaft flopping around in the housing, like a bad bushing or bearing? Is the rotor rotating off center like the shaft is bent? Or is the whole bamn thing, housing cap and all moving around? Please explain.

Have to agree with Julio on this one, I love the thin stock wheel. On long drives the fat wheels make my knuckles hurt. When I refinished the wheel on a friends car we added shark skin to the varnish on the underside of the wheel and that gives you excellent grip when you need it and allows you to let the wheel slide through your fingers coming out of turns. Also, I have never been a fan of the rubberized wheels, they get sticky and nasty over time and are hard to keep clean.

I admire your restraint, you make me feel like a maniac behind the wheel of my Z. Sounds good though, and I see you are aflicted by the same goofy smile that sits under my nose every time I drive the 240.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

How much fuel did the car take when you filled it up? I had a problem with my 73 where I could only get half a tank of fuel into it. Did you try jumping out the sender to see if the gauge pegs on full?

I think he is suggestion the commission of the OP's fraud by switching the vin. no.

John is rite, one word, one sylable answers to the "G" man's questions are best.

Sounds like it hasn't seen asphault in years, reasonably believable.

Thanks guys, parts on order this week. If I'm going that deep, I might as well put a good set of pads on while I'm in there. Any suggestions for pads for the drilled and slotted rotors.

Sorry, 240 on-da-brain.

Yes, and they LOOKED ok, not all malformed and cracked, but the pads I installed didn't come with new shims, any idea from whence yours came?

Man, I've been trying to get rid of a NASTY front brake squeel for a year now. I put drilled and slotted rotors on, changed pads, cleaned and cleaned again. It's fine for a day or two, then SQUEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLL. It's getting embarrasing, any ideas on how to quiet the damn things?

Choke light?

I think you should lock this thread and send our friend to the local "Tag and Title Service" in his jurisdiction to get accurate and prudent advice on what path he should follow to gain legal and outright ownership of the car. The passage of time, legal status of the P.O.'s (ie; dead) the disposition of the lein and who now ownes it and has it been written off, or is it active etc. etc. etc. all will play a part. The one thing I can tell you that is 100% accurate, get ready to fill out ALOT of paperwork, welcome to red tape hell.

Just because it is new doesn't mean it is good. if the filter isn't flowing freely, the pressure rises enough to bypass it, hense the SLIGHT rise in pressure you are seeing. I would try a filter replacement before you go pouring sludge buster in the motor and causing new and unecessary problems. FWIW, I think I would just do as John C. says, don't worry, be happy.

Unplug the fuel pump and crank the engine over. It is a good idea to disconnect the fp, or at least batt neg. when working in an EFI fuel system anyway.

You should make sure the car is undercoated and properly protected, and stay out in front of any developing rust as it starts.

I'd love to have seen the look on the insurance adjusters face after this one.

Try this quick and cheap trick, replace the oil filter, it could be cloged. Don't forget to top off the oil when you are done.