5thhorsemann
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Everything posted by 5thhorsemann
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Sounds like it hasn't seen asphault in years, reasonably believable.
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Thanks guys, parts on order this week. If I'm going that deep, I might as well put a good set of pads on while I'm in there. Any suggestions for pads for the drilled and slotted rotors.
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Sorry, 240 on-da-brain.
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Yes, and they LOOKED ok, not all malformed and cracked, but the pads I installed didn't come with new shims, any idea from whence yours came?
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Man, I've been trying to get rid of a NASTY front brake squeel for a year now. I put drilled and slotted rotors on, changed pads, cleaned and cleaned again. It's fine for a day or two, then SQUEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLL. It's getting embarrasing, any ideas on how to quiet the damn things?
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Choke light?
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I think you should lock this thread and send our friend to the local "Tag and Title Service" in his jurisdiction to get accurate and prudent advice on what path he should follow to gain legal and outright ownership of the car. The passage of time, legal status of the P.O.'s (ie; dead) the disposition of the lein and who now ownes it and has it been written off, or is it active etc. etc. etc. all will play a part. The one thing I can tell you that is 100% accurate, get ready to fill out ALOT of paperwork, welcome to red tape hell.
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Just because it is new doesn't mean it is good. if the filter isn't flowing freely, the pressure rises enough to bypass it, hense the SLIGHT rise in pressure you are seeing. I would try a filter replacement before you go pouring sludge buster in the motor and causing new and unecessary problems. FWIW, I think I would just do as John C. says, don't worry, be happy.
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Unplug the fuel pump and crank the engine over. It is a good idea to disconnect the fp, or at least batt neg. when working in an EFI fuel system anyway.
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280z in rainy Seattle as a daily driver..problems?
5thhorsemann replied to confusa's topic in Open Discussions
You should make sure the car is undercoated and properly protected, and stay out in front of any developing rust as it starts. -
Try this quick and cheap trick, replace the oil filter, it could be cloged. Don't forget to top off the oil when you are done.
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On the flat boss below the head casting.
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Why did you smash the wind sheild? They come out fairly easily. Was it broken and you were in need of some stress relief?
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Scotsman living in Denmark project 240Z collected today!
5thhorsemann replied to Scotauto's topic in Introductions and Rides
Is that a rally badge on the grill, if so from which race? -
Today at the 7-11; Is it a 280Z? No Its a 240........ How hard was it to take the back seats out? I made them into fold aways (pointing out the slit in the carpet) Wow. that looks slick. Thinking to myself, MORON..................
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. Six of one, half dozen of the other. If you have the right pump and properly protect the lines, I see no problems with either setup. FWIW, a carb (on a "normal" street car) needs only a slight amount of fuel pressure to run at reasonable RPM's a few pounds of pressure is required only at high speed. The return line has a capillary hole to maintain a tiny bit of pressure at the bowl inlet to maintain idle, the rest of the fuel flow is returned to the tank, the pressure mounts as RPM's increase to combat the dreaded VL. At some point the return flow will max out due to the capillary hole, but VL is not a problem when the car is moving forward at speed as the air flow through the engine compartment keeps the gas cool.
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I wouldn’t recommend applying a clear coat to the wheel after you polish them, it is really difficult to get rid of all the polish residue to get good adhesion on the clear coat. That’s why I finish with mothers aluminum polish, it seals the casting and lasts for months. As I recall, my rivets are cross peaned and it would be a PITA to remove them.
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Awsome finish product, but our wheels have those rivets around the center, which do not come off. So unfortunately, we are stuck sitting next to a big fat tub of elbow grease. I used the tal-strip a pressure washer to remove the clear coat, a pneumatic die grinder with a 3" buffing wheel and various grits of wet sand paper and rosin and finished with mothers and Budweiser. (more bud than mothers) On my pickup, it took like 2 hours a wheel, but they had a mirror finish and it is easy to keep up on.
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Awsome finish product.
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There are lots of things people use, carb cleaner, WD40 and the like. I like the propane and map gas because I dont have to hose my motor down with liquids, most flamable at that. Torches are cheap and very usefull tools.
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If you are going to do it, now is the time, before you get the meats mounted. Use tal-strip (spray can type), the clear coat will come rite off. then use standard polishing techniques to bring up the shine. Also, make sure the tire shop puts the ballance weights on the inside of the wheel.
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So are you now thinking you have a manifold leak? Use a propane torch, do not light the fire, start the car and slowley fog the intake with the gas while noting any spots that change the rpm.
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Check out the tire rack site, they have excelent info and prices.
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I agree, the 235 will not fit rite on the 6 inch rim, I think 215 or 205/60 is as big as you can go on a 6".
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Mine are 14x7, by lighter, I mean they are thicker, not as many empty spaces in the mould when they cast the centers. Could be that they cast them heavier to accomodate the wider rim and deeper offset. But they definetly are different than what I have.