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5thhorsemann

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Everything posted by 5thhorsemann

  1. I've just spent the last two hours searching posts for this very thing as I plan to do this job over the weekend. It's a mistery, I've read used motor oil, lite grease, and none at all (which seems to be frowned upon) From what I've read the benifits are 1) heat transfer, which lends itself to the use of motor oil. And 2) Ease of future removal of the cartredge, where grease wins. I didn't see ATF discussed. I am going with the grease, and a new O ring and gland nut. FWIW
  2. Seems to me it would be one way or the other.
  3. Looks like you need to find the AC compatable unit. I don't know about your application, but I THINK if you use thas one, the AC compressor will run ALL the time when the heat is on. The sensor disables the AC clutch, again I THINK.
  4. You can do one of two things; 1) replace the FL with the correct replacement part 2) substitute with any other style fuse component and buy a good towing insurance policy, then cross yoour fingers that it dosen't leave you in a bad cell.
  5. First, always include year and model. second start by bench testing the switch before you go for the wiring harness,this is very important when trying to figure out what the PO has done to (you and) the car. Test continuity thru the switch in it's various positions to ensure the switch is good and then you can eliminate it as the problem. Once you have reliable switching check your circuts one at a time using first the FSM and second by tracing PO added circuts. My GUESS is that the switch is bad, or the PO wouldn't have gone thru the trouble of butchering the wiring in the first place. BTW, that picture shows almost nothing, and nothing of use to help us help you.
  6. If anyone is intrested, I have a sign shop. If any of you guys need parts for your signs, like lighting parts or a set of changable copy letters for the sign above, I can help. I can also reproduce damn near any window or body panel graphics or decals that you get your hands on. Not trying sell anything here, just giving a place to start if anyone is looking for help.
  7. Just bumping to whats new. Bought the strut bearings and bumpers, springs and sleeves should be here tomorrow. I want to do the rears this weekend and don't want to leave the car down in my shop. Any parts I missed and need to get?
  8. WGAS what they call it, the S30 is still one of the coolest cars of it's era. I love my Lil' Lady.
  9. I read that one too. My reasons are a combo of looks and street performance, along side the fact that the PO used a bunch of those aluminum spring spreaders to compensate (presumably, he was dead by the time I got my hands on the car) for the worn out springs. I say this because I can see 2 sets of wear marks on the strut shafts, which are worn out stock stuff. (I think they are stock, but know they are worn out) I have a set of N.O.S. Builstiens, still in the box, that I got from a friend that used to race a 73 240Z. He says they are not the best strut by todays standards, but are still a great strut nontheless.
  10. Brakes and bushings are all done already. BTW it's a 73 240. And yes, I bought the threaded sleeve mod kits to dial in my ride height.
  11. Those are the fuses, not the fusable links, the links are down by the starter. They look like rubber blocks moulded into or onto the + wires at the starter.
  12. No worries, that motor ain't made of wax, it can take alot more abuse than that.
  13. You got pics of the new wheels on the car?
  14. Ok, so after months of research, asking questions and generally pissing people off, (around here) I finally went and done it. I ordered my springs and adjuster sleeves for all 4 corners. So looking at the FSM, I see all the little widgets and gizmos involved in the strut assembly. So my question is, what all of them should be replaced in the referb? Obviously, some would simply say all. I would think things like the gland nut which came with the new struts would be a gimmi, but what about the strut bearing and isolator? What about the bumpers, which do not appear to be there? Or the strut isolators? Any of you fine people that have gone with adjuster sleeves like the G.C.'s, please let me know what you ran into, and what I should look for. Thanks in advance, The 5th.
  15. I'm green with envy, That is sweet!
  16. Most auto parts stores carry them. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CHEAT YOURSELF OUT OF STUD WHEN ADDING SPACERS! If you have to add too much spacer to get at least 1/2 inch thread get longer studs or you could loose a wheel.
  17. Those things are a joke, aside from always getting hooked on cloths and tools and coming open, as you say, they brake off easily. I replace them with the 3M glue dowh wire tie pads. If you need to cut one of the ties out of the pad, you can just slip in a fresh tie and reuse the pad.
  18. If you are going to re do the engine bay, I would do that first. You will end up re doing too many things if you wait till after you get the car mechanically reliable.
  19. 1) Make it run reliable, and go through the electrical and fuel systems 2) Tires, suspension, brakes and frame. 3) body and paint last. Surf the net and get an idea of what you want it to look like before you get into steps 2 & 3.
  20. That looks like a 2 part epoxy, or J-B weld to me, note the bubbles from mixing. If that is true, solvents and heat won't touch it. Grind it down till it's almost gone and then work the last of it out with a razor blade. Use caution and work it slow, thats the cheapest and safest way to go.
  21. If it is solid and hard, cut it down with a dremle tool and scrape off the thin residue after the fact.
  22. http://www.hagerty.com/Hagerty-Online/News/Features/All-articles/2011/04/29/Top-10-worst-car-names-of-all-time?utm_source=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=May&utm_content=Client&utm_campaign=Hagerty%20News-SL3 What can I say, We made the top 10.:tapemouth
  23. Did you try a PPG dealer, The PPG books go back a long way back if you can find them. You will need to find the older books to get the code for pre 80's cars, I don't believe the cd has anything that old on it.
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