5thhorsemann

Did you get rid of the flat top carbs? It sounds exactly like what my 73 was doing before I went to the round top set up and ditched the FT's and smog gear, and oh yea, pictures man, we love pictures.

Glad my humor didn't go to waste.

I was actually talking about travelin mans header. I bought mine (same as his) used on Ebay last year when the flat tops went away. I considered the pace setters to save the stainless steel exhaust that the P.O. put on the car but I went with the 2.5 pipe all the way back. I just had to have an exhaust shop remove the 5 foot stainless twice pipe and tie in to the 2.5 inch stainless behind the trannie. I remember the thread you started about the flange issue, and remember thinking that I made the right decision going the way that I did. It would be good to know what I would be looking for if I ever needed to get another set for a new car or to replace what is on mine now.

Don't know how well this pic will work, but that is stock 73 cable location. Don't cut the fire wall for a choke cable, thats just wrong. You can see the dual boot peaking out just under the hood latch bracket.

Problem found!!!!! Apearently when I replumbed the vent lines last fall, I cut the inner lining of the top hose which created a flapper valve in the tank fitting. air can pass into the top of the tank but not out. I pulled the hose at the tank end, saw the cut liner. removed the first 1 1/2 inches of hose, reattached and the problem is now solved. Drove to the gas station with just under 1/2 tank and she took almost 9 gallons, and reads FULL. Thanks for all the help everyone, kept me from pulling the tank for no reason.

Not to hyjack the thread, but who makes this header? I have the same one on my car and love it but don't know who makes it. Kidd, Its a shame to hide that mill under a hood. Looks really sweet.

The I.V. setup is what I have used with success several times, but here is my twist. 1) set up a 5 gallon can at the back of the car, and plumb a rubber hose as a return line into the can. 2) get your hands on a ford electric in tank fuel pump from a 1980's truck or crown vic, plumb that into the head of the fuel line and use a filter between it and the 5 gallon can. These pumps put out 35psi and over 5gpm free flow. 3) Add 5 gallons of KEROSENE and turn the system on. Let it run for 10 or 15 minuts. 4) Replace the filter and run a gallon or two of fresh kero through it, it will run clear. The beauty of this is that you can filter the kerosene and dump it in a home heating oil tank, no waste to dispose of and all the gunk gets captured in the can and filters. Just make sure the clamps are on good and tight when you do your return lines. Also note that some of the ford pumps are self regulating so it may turn of and on while you are pumping. and strap the pump down to a board as they have alot of torque and will attempt an escape when you power up.

Yea sounds like a U-Joint is failing. Give em a wiggle.

Lookin good!

Are they not some sort of SU varient on that V12?

Or at least a FSM.

here it is http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?41940-Quick-and-dirty-SU-Tuning&highlight=quick+and+dirty+su+tuning

Do a thread search for "quick and dirty su", I think it was BLUE that posted a really good description of how to do this.

the owls and snakes work as long as you move them around, real snakes work better. If I catch a snake it goes in the barn. Keeps the rodents down as well.

That helps, if it were a baffel issue I would run out of gas at a half tank. Thanks all for the info. It has to be a venting problem. Weather is nasty, I'll get back into it in a few days.

Damn dude. What were you expecting, you got two $15.00 mirrors shipped to your door for $35 bucks. If you were expecting to see fixed metal housings with real glass mirrors on gimbles you need to throw in at LEAST another hundred in the ring. Don't price compare Super Kmart blue light specials and then bitch when you get blue light special parts. In other words, it is your responsability to know what you are buying. Paintable = Plastic. Needs Holes to be drilled = generic. 240Z parts on Amazon = you will likely be disapointed.

Sorry for stealing a pic from another thread, but using it as a visual tool, I varified that I have checked all the vent lines and they are all clear. I'm back to the tank baffel.

Use a piece of mig wire 0.035 diameter, stiff enough to push through without bending and soft enough as not to brake. Make sure the end is burr free, hit it with a file before you insert it. Worked well in mine, they were totally blocked and spit in my face when I poked the wire in at first, so relieve the pressure prior to poking as well.

I read somewhere years ago, can't recall where, that plastics, and vinyl in particular can become "addicted" to products like Armorall, and can prematurely fail if regular usage stops. I use Mothers Back to Black which is more suited to seal the dash and seats, rather than adding incompatable oils to the old plastic parts. And I also keep from parking in the direct sunlight as much as I can. No cracks anywhere. I don't know if that is best, or just some bad habbit I picked up due to misinformation, and I'm just lucky.

This one has me stumped, I took a 2 gallon can with me in the hatch, and ran the car out of gas for a second time. pulled the drain plug on the bottom and confirmed it to be empty. Then I put the 2 gallons in and drove to the gas station and it took 5.3 gallons. I could actually see the gas in the neck and the gauge read 1/2 tank. I then ran the car around the block (approx. 6 miles) and back to the pump. It took 2.6 gallons and again I can see fuel in the neck, the gauge now reads between 1/2 and 3/4. So the sender is not hitting the top of the tank. The tank seems to be the correct shape, I didn't drop it but did poke around the top with a coat hanger bent into an "L" shape and couldn't find a depression to turn the "L" down into. So I'm relatively sure it is not crushed. I ran all the vent lines to the evap tank, no kinks or "s" traps. When I pop the fill cap I get no pressure or vaccume sounds. I checked both fuel filters and they are spotless, even after the tank was run completely dry twice. So, By process of elimination I feel that it is in the evap tank. I pulled all the hoses and blew 5 pounds of air through the hoses and the tank itself, no restrictions anywhere. Went to the gas station and with the gauge reading just over half, it took 2.1 gallons, could see fuel in the neck, and the gauge now reads almost 3/4 tank. I am POSITIVE it is not the gauge or sender. The tank must be getting air bound in the venting, or hydrolocked at the baffle. I have not been able to find a baffle configuration diagram in my FSM or on the web. Anyone ever cut a tank up to see what the baffle looks like? The car runs fine, but she just won't swallow.

SU= EZ performance webers= PITA

Looks alot like mine, 240z, can you lay a ruler next to it?

If it aint broke don't fix it. replace the worn out drum, turn the other. while its apart, REBUILD the wheel cylinders, centric makes a kit for them, got mine off of ebay for $10.00 each free shipping, had em in 2 days. takes like ten minuts to do each side. Peice of cake. this is the link to the parts http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120648053522&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

The tank is not dented or crushed, I didn't crash or go "stump jumpin'" I did the rundown test last night with spare gas in the back, went 37 miles after hitting dead E on the gauge. Got to a gas station and she took 7.6 gallons of fuel. The gauge read 1/2 tank exactly. So its got to be tank venting.

Took it down to "E" for the second time, I know the gauge is accurate, just went through the sender in the fall and stored it over winter with a full tank. Burned that out the other night. Showed almost E took just over 5, at E took just over 6. I don't know.