5thhorsemann

Yea sounds like a U-Joint is failing. Give em a wiggle.

Lookin good!

Are they not some sort of SU varient on that V12?

Or at least a FSM.

here it is http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?41940-Quick-and-dirty-SU-Tuning&highlight=quick+and+dirty+su+tuning

Do a thread search for "quick and dirty su", I think it was BLUE that posted a really good description of how to do this.

the owls and snakes work as long as you move them around, real snakes work better. If I catch a snake it goes in the barn. Keeps the rodents down as well.

That helps, if it were a baffel issue I would run out of gas at a half tank. Thanks all for the info. It has to be a venting problem. Weather is nasty, I'll get back into it in a few days.

Damn dude. What were you expecting, you got two $15.00 mirrors shipped to your door for $35 bucks. If you were expecting to see fixed metal housings with real glass mirrors on gimbles you need to throw in at LEAST another hundred in the ring. Don't price compare Super Kmart blue light specials and then bitch when you get blue light special parts. In other words, it is your responsability to know what you are buying. Paintable = Plastic. Needs Holes to be drilled = generic. 240Z parts on Amazon = you will likely be disapointed.

Sorry for stealing a pic from another thread, but using it as a visual tool, I varified that I have checked all the vent lines and they are all clear. I'm back to the tank baffel.

Use a piece of mig wire 0.035 diameter, stiff enough to push through without bending and soft enough as not to brake. Make sure the end is burr free, hit it with a file before you insert it. Worked well in mine, they were totally blocked and spit in my face when I poked the wire in at first, so relieve the pressure prior to poking as well.

I read somewhere years ago, can't recall where, that plastics, and vinyl in particular can become "addicted" to products like Armorall, and can prematurely fail if regular usage stops. I use Mothers Back to Black which is more suited to seal the dash and seats, rather than adding incompatable oils to the old plastic parts. And I also keep from parking in the direct sunlight as much as I can. No cracks anywhere. I don't know if that is best, or just some bad habbit I picked up due to misinformation, and I'm just lucky.

This one has me stumped, I took a 2 gallon can with me in the hatch, and ran the car out of gas for a second time. pulled the drain plug on the bottom and confirmed it to be empty. Then I put the 2 gallons in and drove to the gas station and it took 5.3 gallons. I could actually see the gas in the neck and the gauge read 1/2 tank. I then ran the car around the block (approx. 6 miles) and back to the pump. It took 2.6 gallons and again I can see fuel in the neck, the gauge now reads between 1/2 and 3/4. So the sender is not hitting the top of the tank. The tank seems to be the correct shape, I didn't drop it but did poke around the top with a coat hanger bent into an "L" shape and couldn't find a depression to turn the "L" down into. So I'm relatively sure it is not crushed. I ran all the vent lines to the evap tank, no kinks or "s" traps. When I pop the fill cap I get no pressure or vaccume sounds. I checked both fuel filters and they are spotless, even after the tank was run completely dry twice. So, By process of elimination I feel that it is in the evap tank. I pulled all the hoses and blew 5 pounds of air through the hoses and the tank itself, no restrictions anywhere. Went to the gas station and with the gauge reading just over half, it took 2.1 gallons, could see fuel in the neck, and the gauge now reads almost 3/4 tank. I am POSITIVE it is not the gauge or sender. The tank must be getting air bound in the venting, or hydrolocked at the baffle. I have not been able to find a baffle configuration diagram in my FSM or on the web. Anyone ever cut a tank up to see what the baffle looks like? The car runs fine, but she just won't swallow.

SU= EZ performance webers= PITA

Looks alot like mine, 240z, can you lay a ruler next to it?

If it aint broke don't fix it. replace the worn out drum, turn the other. while its apart, REBUILD the wheel cylinders, centric makes a kit for them, got mine off of ebay for $10.00 each free shipping, had em in 2 days. takes like ten minuts to do each side. Peice of cake. this is the link to the parts http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120648053522&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

The tank is not dented or crushed, I didn't crash or go "stump jumpin'" I did the rundown test last night with spare gas in the back, went 37 miles after hitting dead E on the gauge. Got to a gas station and she took 7.6 gallons of fuel. The gauge read 1/2 tank exactly. So its got to be tank venting.

Took it down to "E" for the second time, I know the gauge is accurate, just went through the sender in the fall and stored it over winter with a full tank. Burned that out the other night. Showed almost E took just over 5, at E took just over 6. I don't know.

Ok Here's a new one on me, I can only get the car to take 1/2 a tank of gas, like 6 or 7 gallons. At that point the fuel is topped off at the neck. Anyone see this before? 73 240Z, standard 15.9 gal tank with all new tank plumbing to expansion tank and motor. I understand that new doesn't mean good, and I may have missed something. Any ideas before I have to dig through the hole hose thing again would be appriciated.:stupid:

It's a 4 wheel independant suspension/ unibody car. Put it on an alignment machine and this will tell you all you need to know. If it is in alignment you are cool. if its been shimmed and adjusted to beat all, and is still out, you are in for some major work. How cheap is cheap. Can you loose on the car + tow + alingment?

Damn TUT, everyone is beating on your muffler. Hay folks, it's a strait thru, not an offset outlet. If he rotates it it will hang down. Sharp car my man.

Also some pics of the outside, shows if lights have been removed.

Best laugh of the day, Thanks 1B6.

define "wobble"

Now I am TOTALLY speaking out of my league when it comes to this style jackpot, and admit that I have never gone this deep into a Z R/P set up. There are 2 things that are usually the culprit in play in a diff. (bad parts excluded) your ring gear is adjusted too far outboard, or your pinion is too far forward in the housing. The ring gear is the easiest to adjust (in MOST) rears, the bearings can adjust left or right independently. The pinion usually requires shimming. I am probably at least somewhat WRONG when it comes to these rears, and I hope someone chimes in to educate us on this. My point is, I'm thinking you can take it to a transmission shop and have it adjusted. And I will be watching this thread to learn my new thing for today.:bulb: