5thhorsemann

That is not a u-joint, You need to check your pinion gear and ring gear out.

Why not bypass the heater core and see if the smell goes away before you go tearing into that PITA job? I have tackeled that task on my 73 and it was no fun at all. Hate to see you go through that for nothing.

The vaccume booster is the black doughnut that the master cylinder mounts on, don't think that is your problem. Jack up front wheels and spin the tires by hand to make sure they are spinning true, could be a hub issue. Did you get new rotors, or used? If you don"t see A problem with the wheels on, pull the tires, replace the lugnuts and spin the rotors and check them for wobble. If you have rear disk brakes do the same on the rear. Are you getting feedback through the peddal, or steering wheel, or both?

I have one from batt neg to the fire wal and a second braided strap from the block to the frame rail, there is no nasty ground wire to the valve cover.

Dude, If your wife looked at that car and gave you a hug, she is a keeper! I have yet to get more than a head shake acompanied by the old "Here we go again" You are either the luckiest man alive or she is cheating on you. Either way, congrats on the aquisition!

Not boaring, thats for a spun bearing, line honing makes for a perfect crank install, and it's cheap. Although I have not (yet) rebuilt one of these motors.

A true Earl Scheib hot rod all the way, what a POS, who would go to all the time and trouble to put a big block in a Z and leave the stock tires and wheels on the car? More like $350.00 ROTFLMAO!!!! KRIST ON A CRACKER..........Its a 2+2 on top of everything else, Does he run this thing in the "CLOWN CAR" catagory at the shows he trailers this trash to? Maby try washing the pig first.

Feel like I'm beating a dead horse here, but WTF, whats the worst thing that could happen. Question, why would you run the ground cable to the furthest point on the block from the starter? I looked at my 73 last night, the ground cable is like 18" long and goes directly to the block at the starter bolts. Try this, take a jumper cable and go battery ground post to the starter housing. Looking at the new pics I see you have a bracket under the lug, I still say you have a ground issue.

your link goes to the home page not a specific part.

What year and model is it?

Yea, what he said.

Drink a bear and controll yourself. I can gar-un-tee if you get impatient with this problem cause you want to drive the car in the nice weather, you will brake something. Take your time and go through the paces, you'll find the problem. Stop jumping around and put a pressure gauge in the system and check your pressure as stated above, Eliminate posabilities one by one.

I still say after looking at his ground cable that there is no proper engin ground. I know the pic sucks, but that cable looks cut off to me.

Flush the system BEFORE doing anything with the radiator. If there is a buttload of slop in the block the flush may clog parts of the new/ referbed core. Just my opinion.

FWIW, While the motor is broken down I would punch her out .030 0ver and get new pistons and have the rotating assembly completely gone thur. The block would be deck ground and line honed and every bolt hole would be inspected and have the threads chased. Since you aren't going with the "worked" E31 head and a radical cam, I would stick with the round top carbs, professionally reworked, and a gucchi crank trigger ignition system. And DEfinetly a new hi volume oil pump.

I'm not seeing a bolt, can you take a pic of said bolt and post it?

Police stolen vehicle reports, sorry, didn't see the Denmark location.

It's an EZ fix and the parts are on their way. Save the labor bucks and buy a power bleeder.

They are all listed on the FBI hot sheets. It's all stolen stuff!

you need the stat for propeer temp management, reinstall. Flush the cooling system.

breakfast and lunch as well, another guy that thinks old junk is a rare treasure.

The KIDD nailed it, dont even think about the throwout brng, not related to the issue. BTW a power bleeder works best for doing this opperation and makes for a one man job as well.

So your neg. cable doesn't have a lug on the end that bolts to an eng ground?/! If this is the case, you need to correct that first. It looks like someone cut it off at the fuel rail bracket, WTF. Secondly, if the solinoid post is spinning in the housing its likley trashed, the sol that is. That ground strap to the valve cover is someones lame attempt to fix the unterminated ground cable, get rid of it. Make sure you add a ground strap to the body of the car as well, if you don't have one in place already.

FOR HOW MANY MONIES DID YOU BOUGHT IT FOR? If you doesn't mind me axing?

If it's sound under the hood and in the door and hatch jambs, I would go the way you described. An experienced painter will mask the jambs and doors and hatch and cut the paint in where it makes the best sence, at the seams. Then close the car up and shoot the body. If you choose a good paint shop, you'll never be able to tell. Just make sure he pulls all the handels bumpers and badges.