5thhorsemann

What did you get it for, it says $9k reserve not met? Just currious, like to have the numbers so I don't go too far overbosrd on my car money wise.

Could be a faulty flow guide valve pulling a vacume on the tank as well, if you only get 10 min of run time.

This is my feeling as well, although with half a tank it will take a long time to show itself. Fill up prior to doing the test. drive till she dies, try to restart, if no success crack the cap and try to restart.

GOOD GOD MAN! What a beast! those numbers do not belong after the 1971 240Z. Awesom looking car. I'm afraid you will be a bit lonley around here, mostley we range from purest to performance mods to the stock stuff, although You seem like the kind of guy that will be able to contribute alot to the chassie and suspension stuff. Welcome. 460RWHP..........in a Z.............Jeazus..............................

The reason for the cooler combustion is the addition of non flamable gasses into the combustion "charge". You are pumping spent fuel into your air/ fuel mix. Strictly a desperate attempt by engineeres to meet govt. mandates for smog control. Just like the smog pumps which add fresh air into the exhaust stream in order to lower the ppm of nudesireable exhaust gasses at the tail pipe. In the trash heap with all of it!

I live just south of the mason/ dixon line (in Dixie) and have been crawling around the junk yards in this area for the better part of the last three decades. GOOD LUCK finding a decent parts car in the pick-n-pays in the north east. Almost all of the early stuff has been crushed. Besides, if you are only looking for clamps and hardware, don't be so pickie, almost any car of the same era will have the same types of hardware under the hood.

What year and model. Assuming 240Z earlier the better. the less crap on the motor, the better it runs.

Honestly, it doesn't look that bad. I think once you peel off the hood and bumper you will be suprised how easily you can pull most of the damage out. Got pics of the eng. bay?

I have a 73 240. When I bouight the car it had a stainless steel 2 into 1 system on it. The first 5 feet or so were seperate pipes merging into a 2 1/2' pipe behind the tranny. When I put the round tops on I removed the cast iron manifolds in favor of a header and cut out the dual pipes and went stainless 2 1/2' all the way to the header collector flange. Can't say what if any power gains I got from the header addition, but I know the intake/ exhaust changes gave me a butt load of performance VS. the stock crap I pulled off. BTW I still have the dual stainless pipe and am planning on selling it, since I haven't seen one anywhere else, and from what I can tell the part is mfg. discontinued. Would anybody here have any idea of what it's worth (performance or money wise)?

You have to cut the car to make the flares look right. If you don't it will look like a 4 wheel drive truck.

Do a site search on the dash lights, you will find plenty of info on the wiring dash here. Brakes is brakes, probably just need cleaned, these cars usually do alot of sitting prior to being sold, and the brakes suffer for that. Look for leaks or weaps and fix as required. If you post picks of the apparatus you are trying to identify (near the tank) you will get an accurate answer. to your question.

As far as I know, Mother Theresa passed on years ago, and I don't think she was a very good mechanic. FWIW, don't buy a 30+ year old car and expect a turn key daily driver. You need to get out from under the money pit and get a bus pass. The only people that can keep a 78 alive as a daily driver will have no simpathy for your delima, they wish they were in your position. Just fix the damn thing yourself. BTW, your average mechanic these days can only swap out parts. You need to become a true mechanic and actually learn to tune your car to be successful and worthy of the 280Z, and the attention it affords you.

The price IS high, but so is the quality! Not that I want one, but I don't recall ever seeing an automatic that is as sweet as this one. REALLY RARE CAR.

If you are already so thick as to interfear with your foot clearence, I think you should follow Blue's advice and cut away a patch of carpet before you apply the plate. I only say this cause once you try to screw the plate in and find that you can't compress the carpet beneath, you will have ruined the plate and created a bunch of holes that will allow rust to get a foothold. FWIW.

Me thinks it's time to re-do your carpet. You are thinking of making structural &/or mechanical changes over carpet? Nonsence...........

I take it you have an automatic trans, could you trim off the side of the brake peddal and make a new pad that hangs off to the left? It sucks to overlook the details, don't it.

If you ever watch the BJ auctions, they differentiate between production and factory special ordered cars. The SO cars do go for more money, might be worth researching Sam Melnick, if he turnes out to be a famous serial killer (or bowler) the car might be worth something more than just the beautiful example that it is. PS I've seen this car on the street before, and the pics don't do it justice.

I can make you one just like it (spelled properly) for about $30 bucks on my cnc engraving router. That is total B.S as a factory addition, likley made in a bowling alley or trophy shop. And it dosn't say custom ordered, it says customer ordered production model, I bet the car was a gift for a son or hubby.

just want to refresh this post, I did a site search and found some old threads containing info that some of the guys installed these on their S30's, but no follow up was posted. The bottom line is that I need to make a decision soon, and at this point I am leaning towards making my own adjusters per jmortensons suggestion, and buying off the shelf springs at the rates I want. Any input is appriciated.

I FEEL YOUR PAIN, and am currently looking into spring options to stiffen up that 40 someodd year old suspension. Mine is so loose that I rub on hard shifts in a strait line anymore.

mesage deleted because I'm an idiot!

You definetly need to weld that patch in on both sides, the first pool of water will soak the sandwich area and you will be right back where you started in no time. And find an instructional video for welding, and a real welder. A really worth while investment.

rotflmao!!!!!!!

Why not drain the tank, that will get rid of the bulk of the trash inside.

Bad dog, This is the fan/rad clearence on mine (73 z), it has a 280 rad, but the fan and WP are stock, I'd call it like 1,5 to 2 inches. The 1/8" spacer is there to align the pullies if it was under the pully. I think you are dealing with an aftermarket fan, or a really thick fan spacer.