5thhorsemann

Man, I think I would have had to take the whole doner car home with me. There is alot of good stuff in those pic.'s! I wish you success, and am looking forward to see pic.'s of your progress. Wish I would have found this site before I finished doing the majority of the repairs needed to make my car streetable. That was mostly turning wrenches though. Tell us, does she run?

Just finished rebuilding both rear wheel cylinders, took less than three hours to do both sides and BLEED ALL 4 CORNERS. Parts were less than 15 bucks. The brakes feel just like they did before the wheel cylinder failed. I checked out the pushrod assembly when I did the MS test, paying attention to when the gauges started to deflect in relation to peddal position. I feel good about the boost opperation. My FSM calls for the boost unit to be "overhauled every two years", Does anyone do this? I bet mine is original and never been touched.

too muchROFL Looking great Casey

Once again, I learned my new thing for today. I understood the function of the "tender" spring, but did not know about the helper spring as it affects the rate. Good stuff. here is the link to the actual item on their site; http://www.cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=259&pid=1340 They advertize up to a 3" drop which is radical for a screw turner kit. Also there is no welding required, the whole giddiup is a slip fit and looks to be held in place by the strut and set screws. they also offer the single spring kits. http://www.cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=259&pid=1556 But check out those spring rates 280 front & 336 rear, sounds like a real ground pounder! You almost have to install strut tower braces with these kits. also notice the prices as compared to the ebay prices.

Has anyone had experience with these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dual-Springs-Coil-overs-Coilovers-DATSUN-240Z-70-74-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5adfd9249dQQitemZ390302606493QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I am told they are better than the ground controll setup for street use, and not as expensive.

Was that pic taken in a junk yard? love how the rear tire is leaning in 10 degrees!

you should not run the motor to bleed power brakes, it makes it harder to get the air out of the system as the boost actuatuon makes the fluid flow faster and squirt farther.

I admit that I never have cracked the bleeders on this car, never opened the system (aside from my little test above) so no need to bleed in my mind. I'm thinking I need to look at the push rod adjustment.

Ok, so I put a set of gauges on the master cylinder and they read as follows; back= 740 psi front= 720 psi Therefor, I would have to assume the MS is good as there is no leakage at the booster and the pressures are different. Note that I isolated the MS from the calipers and wheel cylinders. Looking at the FSM cross section diagrams, it looks like the front brake piston is actuated by the rear piston via fluid. So to test this I re-connected the front brakes, left the gauge on the rear, started the car and applied the brakes. The rear gauge maxed out at just over 800 psi and the front brakes worked. So it was just the rear cylinder failure that caused all the brakes to go away. I did have some brake pressure up front while driving home the other day, but it was not safe by any means. The peddal went all the way to the floor and the brakes only slowed the car a bit, no real stopping power without the hand brake. So my question is, would this be correct or am I missing something?

So, if you don't mind me asking, where are you cash wise?

pic looks fine

Damn it Leon, I just looked at the FSM and you are right! the peddal goes rite to the floor and I can move the car with only one foot out the door while sitting in the drivers seat. Good fluid in the front res. but as I pump the peddal with no fluid in the rear res. fluid is draining from the front res. Looks like the master cyl. is also toast. Rear disks, here we go.

Just looked at my records, I got mine (bronz) on ebay from zsource, buy it now $8.00 + $3.95 shipping. EXCELENT fit and finish, shifter feels like new.

As suspected, catastrophic failure of the rear left wheel cylinder. No warning, just let go. I put new pads and shoes on it last year and inspected the entire system before putting the car on the road. Just one of those things I guess. So what is our best source for new wheel cylinders?

Decided to take the long twisty way home today as we are looking at nasty weather for the rest of the week and the Z goes in the barn when moisture falls from the sky. So I'm following an RX-7 and we are going along at a pretty good clip. there is a stretch of road called the 7 sisters, it's a really fun series of 180 degree left right lefts. Divided highway, no shoulder, guard rails one side and a steep embankment on the other. Taking the turns at around 50 mph, the guy in the RX is using his brakes to manage his speed, I'm using the gas peddal and gears. He brakes hard fo one of the tighter turns, luckily I was far enough back that when I needed to hit the brakes, and found out I didn't have any, that I could use the emergency brake to avoid rearending the RX. And I'm here to tell you I missed his arse end by inches! Looks like the drivers side wheel cylinder blead out, as soon as my hands stop shaking I'll pull the wheel and check her out. Thank God for that manual brake, the last dozen or so miles were a real chore.

Watch the commercial auction sights and local scrap yards if you are looking for steel beams. I got the steel for my last shop at maryland recyclers, paid scrap price at the time + 10 %. Got a 30 foot 8 inch I beam and two 12 foot 8 inch beams for under $500 delivered to my house. Made it posable to create a clear span interrior, nothing in the way. Also, run the biggest electrical service you can, that way you won't be limited to smaller compressors and welders. Also, don't skimp on the lighting, go HID! I put flourecent fixtures in only to replace them with HID a year later, had to rewire everything. The HID's light the place up ten times brighter. And BTW, paint the walls ceilings and floor as close to white as you can, better for lighting. Another thought, put pull pots in the floor when you do the original pour. use 36" X 8" sonotubes with 1/2" rebar and 1' shanks. This was another after thought that was a pain in the butt, and a real mess to install after I monved in. But they make body and frame repairs a whole lot easier.

Hay cheese, before you go with any of the aformentioned suggestions, try this cheap way out. Go to the auto parts store or home depot and get a spray can of TALSTRIP. It is used by the avation industry to remove old finishes from aircraft prior to repaint. Spray it on and watch the paint wrinckle up. then wash it away with a hose or pressure washer (prefered). Then you can polish or paint as you wish. this stuff works super fast with outstanding results. Tips 1) apply evenly 2) out of direct sunlight 3) OUTSIDE and away from any other painted surfaces! 4)do not allow it to dry out, hover over the part and re apply to dry spots and areas that do not release. here is the link to this wonderful stuff http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7_nid=K438JQ8HL0gsS38K155C5Rgl0QG10STHM0bl Good luck!

Good stuff!

the sae three ball wear test and moisture suspension tests tell the tail. Amsoil wins both. Change it in the spring and run it all year. For those who don't know the moisture suspension test determins how much H2O oil can hold in solution at 70 deg. f. compared to what is left after the oil is heated to 220 deg. f. as measured in a Rotrode Spectrometer.

johntlr1000, what part of York are you in? I lived in Glenrock for a few years, are you that far south? NJ is right around the corner from us, might be your best bet. ike Gary said, you will get that car super cheap.

You can also hold the end of the cable end in your fist and put your knuckles on a good ground. You will know FOR SURE if there is a spark. It doesn't hurt if you only fire the coil once.

Yea, differential, rear end, whatever. If you ever have the misfortune to have a bearing or gear problem within that pretty little casing, the "jackpot" reference will become clear. They are a PITA to set up.

You should be testing the car in the run key position. Eliminate the car from the coil, go to + batt (fixed) and - batt (touch) and hold the output lead to a good ground. if it doesn't spark up thatway the coil is toast.

Sounds like a ring and pinion issue, only happens under power. Check your jackpot lube, if it is really low it can cause this.

Ebay is a risky way to buy anything, I've not been burned persay, but I have been less than happy with some stuff I purchased. My pollicy is as follows: only buy super cheap, use only paypal, and hope for the best. And ONLY buy from 100%ers with lots of feedback, 40 or more.