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5thhorsemann

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Everything posted by 5thhorsemann

  1. 5thhorsemann
    johntlr1000, what part of York are you in? I lived in Glenrock for a few years, are you that far south? NJ is right around the corner from us, might be your best bet. ike Gary said, you will get that car super cheap.
  2. 5thhorsemann
    You can also hold the end of the cable end in your fist and put your knuckles on a good ground. You will know FOR SURE if there is a spark. It doesn't hurt if you only fire the coil once.
  3. 5thhorsemann
    Yea, differential, rear end, whatever. If you ever have the misfortune to have a bearing or gear problem within that pretty little casing, the "jackpot" reference will become clear. They are a PITA to set up.
  4. 5thhorsemann
    You should be testing the car in the run key position. Eliminate the car from the coil, go to + batt (fixed) and - batt (touch) and hold the output lead to a good ground. if it doesn't spark up thatway the coil is toast.
  5. 5thhorsemann
    Sounds like a ring and pinion issue, only happens under power. Check your jackpot lube, if it is really low it can cause this.
  6. 5thhorsemann
    Ebay is a risky way to buy anything, I've not been burned persay, but I have been less than happy with some stuff I purchased. My pollicy is as follows: only buy super cheap, use only paypal, and hope for the best. And ONLY buy from 100%ers with lots of feedback, 40 or more.
  7. 5thhorsemann
    Good ol shade tree mechanics. Never give up.
  8. 5thhorsemann
    That looks like your huckelberry, but what a project. You go that route and we will have a new answer man around here. GOOD LUCK!
  9. 5thhorsemann
    It's my understanding, from conversations with a few guys that ran 240Z'z at the 24 hour Daytona event, that the lead residue actually lubricates the valve stems. It also "builds up" on the actual seat area of the head, both intake and exhaust, and fills the micro pours in the castings creating a better seal. Additionally, it benifits the valve seals and as stated by g72s20 aids in heat disapation. The residue effects make sense to me when I think about the affects of leaded fuel on the cataletic converter. That said, I run lead additive in my Z. It totally eliminates detonation and helps the fuel stay fresh while the car sits. I guess I'm just looking for insight from others to confirm or dispute the info I gathered from the Racers crew.
  10. 5thhorsemann
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but the stock master will not move enough volume to actuate a disk brake calliper. The pistons are like 10 times the area of the single drum piston. Don't you need to change the M.C. when upgrading the rear to disk.
  11. 5thhorsemann
    When I started driving, gas (high test) was under 50 cents a gallon. I don't think I qualify for the new club.
  12. 5thhorsemann
    Do the valve guides in 240Z engines require leaded fule for proper lubrication and sealing? Or am I missing something?
  13. 5thhorsemann
    Mine only has 36K on the clock, so I figure I can take her out and let her eat at will. I'll still be lower than most no matter how much I drive it.
  14. 5thhorsemann
    The heads have a design flaw that causes the gasket to fail at the water jacket between the cylenders. It was recalled for the fix of a better gasket, but they still pop at around every 80,000 miles. I love the truck but between the rust and high milage, I'm not sure I want to go the $300 for parts to do the job. If I get one or two years out of the chemical fix I would be happy.
  15. 5thhorsemann
    http://www.rxauto.com/application.htm I have an old Toyota PU with a V6, working on my third blown head gasket in 325K miles. I put the first two gaskets in and they blow in the same place every time. No water in the oil. I don't want to do the job again if it can be avoided and the truck is not worth paying to have it done. So the question is would you go the $113 at the risk of having to do it anyway? So anybody here try this stuff?
  16. 5thhorsemann
    You wont find that many for sale on the east coast all year.
  17. 5thhorsemann
    Since most of these cars through the past two decades, mine included, are fair weather drivers, the coolant sits in the core and valves and makes corks. Remove, clean, install repeat, on all components outside the engine system.
  18. 5thhorsemann
    Dude, I had a 66 olds f85, 330ci 4BBL, 4 speed, 383 rear, 50"s on the back 60's on the front, complete suspension refresh etc. Of all the cars that have come and gone over the years I miss Ol Blu the most. Had to sacrifice her to the devorce gods in order to save my company. One of the saddest days of my life, the new owner took out a guard rail with it, total loss.
  19. 5thhorsemann
    I couldn't find this hose (formed) locally, so I went to the local ace hardware and bought a stainless steel door return spring that fit loosly in the hose. Cut to size and installed the hose. Keeps the bend wide open, works like a champ, and removes two clamp connections from the aformentioned set up. I realize there is very little liquid fuel seen by this hose, but the fumes in the cockpit suck.
  20. 5thhorsemann
    That condensor above the tach dosen't look so hot either, get it, hot, his problem comes in with heat. ANYWAY........... These ghost in the machine problems are killers. I will buy an electrical problem, but I don't think fuel or dirty carbs can do this. The car wants more gas when cold than when hot. Vapor lock perhaps. Also check that the electric fuel pump in the rear is ok, some have a filter inside. note that the mechanical pump won't draw through that pump if it is intermittant, that could cause this. 73 car vaporlock recall. If you swapped over to round tops you no longer need the electric pusher pump, if this is the case, jump it out with a piece of hose and unplug it.
  21. 5thhorsemann
    Go to a plumbing supply house, they sell the band clamp torque wrenches.
  22. 5thhorsemann
    I would think if it was a fuel delivery or electrical issue you would stall at some point prior to your destination. Did you try the choke to start when she is hot? could be it starves for fuel with the hot manifolds. you could squirt a few cc's of fuel into the vacuume port on the balance tube and see if she fires and stays running, that will narrow things down a bit. BTW, do you have flat tops or early SU's.
  23. 5thhorsemann
    May be off the wall here but I'll say it anyway. The pickup tube in the tank might be the problem, broken half way down in the tank and sucking wind when you go up hill and running out of gas at half a tank. Easy test, if the car is running fine on flat ground drive up a long hill or just jack the front end up and run the motor at like 3000 RPM. This assumes you have not filled the tank yet. Just a thought.
  24. 5thhorsemann
    I used a vice to remove and install mine, but my vice is huge and has a finer pitch than most shop vices on the market. Just use a good HIGH TEMP antiseize or grease, freeze the bushing as EZ said, heat the LCA and have someone on hand to run the screw down as you position the parts. DON'T let the hot & cold parts touch till the vice drives them together. I actually have an ice house down the street and picked up some dry ice for the freezing part, really fast freeze. Also, put a pipe on the vice pumel (handel) for leverage to get more torque and it goes together fast. Good luck.
  25. 5thhorsemann
    Just finished that very job last fall, those lines are a bitch to install with the tank in the car. I would go for a new filler while you are in there. Like curves said, get rid of the fiberglass, I would add to check the drivers side for more. Probably someones lame attempt at sound proofing, but a true threat to your quarters.
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