5thhorsemann

This is classic "baffel em with bulls#$t speak"

Can't speak to the battery trey, I made mine out of aluminum when the original disintegratd. the harness measurements are the same as on my 73.

This is a good looking smoothie rear.

It sounds like you have the same rust issue as I did.

Use the deck clearence specks for the head, if your too tall you may be able to get a thicker gasket from COMETIC's. I used their stuff on H-D motors in the past for this exact problem and their tech staff is awesome when it comes to this sort of thing.

My front bumper is already gone, and I'm in the process of smothing out the bumper pockets and blinker / running light holes using a spoiler like shown in the g nose z pic above. I got my hands on a later radiator which is taller, this makes the lower tank hang below the core support so the splash pan had to go. I welded up some brackets and tubing to fit behind the air dam and under the rad tank to serve as a serogate bumper. I'm still up in the air about the arse end, and find myself sitting behind the car and staring at the bumper and trying to figure out an elegant solution to this problem. the bumper is ugly, but it is sort of the best they could have done. I'm not a fan of the boxie tail lights or the whole flat panel for that matter. Add to this, the fact that this is the view that most other drivers get of the car, and it begs for attention. I haden't thought of the "T" bar idea, but it makes sense, if for no other reason than to keep those long tail pipes from becomming a soarer thumb than they already are. I plan on drinking some beer behind the car tonight, perhaps I'll take a pic or two and try some Photoshop cropping to see it what would look like. WE shall see, anyone tackle this task? If so please post a pic.

Don't look now, but our government is pushing for a 30% eth. STANDARD mix. Which will among other things be almost leathel to the fuel delivery system of most vehicles made before 2013, even the flex fuel models. The mechanical ability of most politicians ends with using spark plugs for fishing weights. A mechanic friend if mine recomends using lead additive to your fuel every third or fourth tank (and when in winter storage)to to combat the effects of the 10% mix. It has benifits for the combustion chambers and prevents knock. But it also coats the inside of the fuel delivery system. Only use it on cars not equipped with a cat converter, it will destroy them. I'm not sure what will happen when we go to the 60 proff stuff.

Understood, but if you overfill, could that effect (restrict) the piston travel?

I picked up a mini needle scaler at a swap meet years ago, it is an ingersal/rand and is a little smaller than this one http://www.stlouispneumatic.com/scalers.htm but they work really well in these tight corners and don't make such a mess. Care must be taken on thin metals though, too steep an angle will punch through the metal.

Good stuff Leon, I didn't know about the needle change VS. jet change thing. I guess I learned my new thing for today. Question; could the damper fluid level, or vescosity being too high in one or both carbs cause that top end lean condition? I was told that when I went to a K&N dual element that I might need to use a lighter oil in the damper to compensate for the higher flow / less vaccume in the throat to get the carbs to work rite off idle. Turned out the car ran fine and didn't need it, just want to pick your brain.

You may be right about the SU. But mechanically they seem to be roughly the same as a KEHIN CV where the diaphram lifts the needel out of the emulision tube, which contains the main jet, based on vacume demand. That same jet contributes to idle and low end fuel supply in the CV, but supplies all idle and low end fuel in the SU (I think?). Again, I don't claim to be an expert, but based on past experience with OTHER carbs, my logic says a bigger jet, adjusted leaner for low end and idle, will provide proper fuel supply at high rpm and eliminate rich exhaust at low end. If I'm wrong on this, please enlighten me, cause I think I will need it in the future when I finish building the motor of my cars future.

You have something of a hot rod there. It's gonna smell somewhat, it's a Z.I still think you should look into the jetting.

I never shopped jets for round tops, as I have a 2.4 L. I'm not sure about needles either, maby a call to ZTherapy is in order. But if the 2.8 is fresh, it will definetly want more gas at speed than a stock 2.4 L. I don't pretend to be a Z motor guru, but I have built ALOT of hot rods in the past using Kein side drafts, which are similar, and I always installed the DynaJet kits before installing the carbs.

Looks more like an east coast car, around a lot of salt water.

If you have carbs jetted for a 2.4 L on a 2.8L motor, it must run rich at low R's to feed the car at high R's. Sounds like you need to go up a size or two on the jets which will lean the car out at low R's (because you can adjust the car properly now) and still feed the motor at hammer down hold on tight time.

If you go with a $5000 rule, your friend will be paying you to haul that car off his property. If you have the know how to tackle all the body work that pig needs, and are willing to do it, offer him 2 or 3 hundred for it. You might get lucky. Man, I never can get over how people can look you in the eye and ask crazy money for rust buckets like this one. You need to ask him if HE would give $1700 for the car...Bet he says no. Tell him to call the American Pickers, Those buttholes like stuff with lots of "pitina" and the "charecter" that comes with age.

I bought several small parts,good prices, good parts, no contact info though, sorry.

I didn't open a can of worms here......did I?

I'm not looking to buy, and have no use for a turbo motor. Just looked like a slick setup if someone was looking. Intresting read on the other threads though.

Does your dog bite?

Check out this bad boy, nice looking job. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Nissan-Z-240Z-280ZX-Turbo-3-0-Engine-Motor-Head-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem256117b1e5QQitemZ160542732773QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The only thing that wraping the line will change is allowing heat energy to exchange into or out of the system at that point. If you put a cool can in the system prior to the rail, you would get a fatter charge, but the EFI would correct for the condition anyway so it's a moot point, me thinks.

The boiling point of gasoline varies widely with barometric pressure and altitude, and creates less pressure as it boiles. It's not comprable to water, as the complexity of the gasoline molecule doesn't cause the expansion you see in the simple H2O molecule. The alcohol additives make it more temprature stable, the recirculation of the fuel in the system makes it more stable still. The gasoline absorbs and sheds heat energy faster than water, and thermal stabilization occours faster in gas as well. Also liquid gas volume changes more with temp. than water. The ease with which gasoline conducts the thermal energy, coupled with its ability to exist as both liquid and vapor at the same pressure, lends it to vapor binding. likewise, it will allow it to condense back to a liquid much faster. The high pressures of a fuel injection system greatly reduce the ability of gasoline to change state from liquid to gas. It will however vaporize as it leaves the injector nozzle and give a leaner, or less dense charge in manifold vaccume. This problem increases with a hot motor, hot fuel line, altitude and ambient temp.

GOOD GOD! was it submerged in brine or what? Incredable!

I stand corrected, I've got an amp meter.