5thhorsemann

Got pic.'s?

This is correct, the voltage ga. is measuring the circut potential, or voltage of the charging system over a huge resistance. With such high resistance there is almost no current flow, which is what drains the battery. If I remember correctly, the clock is also on the same Pos. as the Voltage ga. and is not on the key. But my car is a 73 and perhaps not the same so I'll shut up now.

FYI this is the blaster I picked up a couple of years ago. It runs heavy on the air but is a solid tool in general.m And you cant beat the price. http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/abrasive-blasters/40-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-34202.html

I would say $800 is high for a rust ranger such as described. Go at him like this. This is how I attack a seller when looking at an older, unrestored car. STEP ONE, determine if he needs money or just wants out of the headach. - If he needs cash, and is a good friend, wish him luck and walk away. - If he needs cash, and is only a buddy, pull out $500 in ten's and make an offer. If he bites buy it. You can always get that money back, even on a basket case. If he doesn't go for it, tell him its a standing offer and when he is done getting beat up on price by straingers and having his time and money waisted advertising and showing the car to the public, you will come get it. Make sure you are standing in front of the car while having this conversation, pick a really bad area of rust and "pick at it" with a concerned look on your face while you are talking. He WILL get discouraged, and make a counter offer. I've bought more than a few cars using this method and I've found that if I do make it out of the driveway without the car, the phone rings within a week. The last being my current 240Z, which I got for $750, and all it needed was carbs and paint, along with some TLC. STEP TWO; If he is a friend and has some love for the car, go with the $500 offer and assure him that you will do right by the car and he will be able to watch the progress as it is brought back from the brink. When he tries to get the price up, stand firm (picking at the rust) and remind him that you are going to be spending your daughters "beauty school" tuition to undo the years of neglect the car suffered in his hands, and leave him with the standing offer. Either way you win. You buy the car right, or you avoid the money pit.

I had a 68 R/T Charger in the days of film cameras that was worse than this car. I welded in brake metal angles everywhere it made sense and used sheet aluminum to replace the trunk, floor pan, fire wall and basically all internal panels. I let a real body man tackle the quarters and rockers. Back then you could get away with your wallet at a body shop, not any more. I recently got a quote to paint my 240 and almost pooped my paints. Don't look now, but we are going to have to use latex to paint cars in the near future, courtesy of our dear friends at the EPA.............F#*@ERS.............. BTW, I've had luck with using the onestep prior to sand blasting in those hard to reach areas. It converts the rust, so if you miss a small spot, the rust is already abaited.

Thats relativly easy, first buy all the replacement components you can find. Second cut out all the really horrid rust and onestep the rest. fit up the replacement stuff and fill in the blanks with self fabricated pieces. Search the threads herein, you'll find lots of helpfull info in the body and paint section. It really looks worse than it is, but you will need some good welding skills to do it right.

Are you going for original restoration, or structuraly sound?

Before I knew better I played with mine for weeks, could only get modest results. It took only a half day to replace the intake with used round tops and the car ran better BEFORE I tuned the R/T than it did with the F/T's. I'm not offended, but I'm not into bashing my head against the wall either. If you want my flatties you can have them, maby you can use them for spare parts.

I used the simplified 3 step version: 1) remove the entire intake system 2) dispose of the entire intake system 3) replace with something that works It was the best thing I ever did for my car.

That article is crap, the values are all wrong, the riveria in the 20k range would need a ground up resto. I saw one on Barrett jackson go for over $100k It was a dual quad big block, but still. If you watch the B-J auctions with any regularity you will see that these prices are way out of line.

lmfao

now now, all in good fun, I think someone might need a HUMMER.

OUCH! Don't beat up on a guy cause he can't read, thats just crule.

also look for pinched wires in the harness, they will cause a voltage drop.

Looking back, I did see a HUMV get up to about a hundred and fifty........................rite before the thing hit the ground, shoot failure.

Ya think?

No wind, flat ground on I-70, no B.S., that car is a sick fast luxury liner. And BTW, you HAD to go thru the AMG driving school to take delivery on the car way back when he bought it new.

Hands down, my brothers AMG Hammer, I think its late 80's or early 90's can't remember. It's one of the first made when AMG was not part of Mercades-Benz. That f#$King car is a rocket sled. We were doing 175 and the car had lots more to give.

Try McMaster-Carr, They have all kinds of strange and odd hardware. If they don't have it, its likley you will be searching for a while. They also have all kinds of bushings bearings shafts and the like, a fabricators dream site. www.mcmaster.com

Nice looking job, so what is your preference, solder or crimp?

I had terrible problems over the years with solder joints , mostly on motorcycles and heavy equipment, . Really problematic where the wire can't be secured to a fixed location such as a body part or the frame. Also where the wire flexs between the body and motor. A really good crimp joint has it's issues with corosion as well, I guess it's whatever you prefer. I prefer mechanical connections myself.

Soldering stranded cables on motorized equipment is bad news (although not so much on one as big as a battery cable) the heat softens the copper and the vibration can cause the wire to brake off. The finer the strands the higher the likelyhood of connection failure, this is why batt. cables are cast in the lead, and not soldered to it, as old time cables were. Some battery or auto parts shops have the big arse crimpers to do the connection properly. Likley it would never become an issue on a weekend worrior, unless you leave your cell service area on a road less traveled. Avoid soldering smaller wires, 8 ga or smaller on any car.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/HC I'm considering buying fiberglass parts from these folks. Prices look good, can't vouch for quality at this point.

No, if that were the case he would be taking Mr. C's money, not steeling just his pic.'s.

Spent money on it. Hoping to be ready for paint by 04-01-11.