5thhorsemann

Nice looking job, so what is your preference, solder or crimp?

I had terrible problems over the years with solder joints , mostly on motorcycles and heavy equipment, . Really problematic where the wire can't be secured to a fixed location such as a body part or the frame. Also where the wire flexs between the body and motor. A really good crimp joint has it's issues with corosion as well, I guess it's whatever you prefer. I prefer mechanical connections myself.

Soldering stranded cables on motorized equipment is bad news (although not so much on one as big as a battery cable) the heat softens the copper and the vibration can cause the wire to brake off. The finer the strands the higher the likelyhood of connection failure, this is why batt. cables are cast in the lead, and not soldered to it, as old time cables were. Some battery or auto parts shops have the big arse crimpers to do the connection properly. Likley it would never become an issue on a weekend worrior, unless you leave your cell service area on a road less traveled. Avoid soldering smaller wires, 8 ga or smaller on any car.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/HC I'm considering buying fiberglass parts from these folks. Prices look good, can't vouch for quality at this point.

No, if that were the case he would be taking Mr. C's money, not steeling just his pic.'s.

Spent money on it. Hoping to be ready for paint by 04-01-11.

How did I miss that? Thanks again.

Think I'm going to put this on the back as well. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7RSW/50-1606 I like it better than the BRE, not as flat in the back, and might keep more soot off the back.

I think this is the one I have been looking for, would have liked ducts, but this will work. Thanks for the link!! http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1401

Actualy, I'm looking to get the 280 airdam without the blinker mounts, in the same basic configurations you guys are running. I want to mould the AD to the shugar scoops and fenders and remove the bumper. The FG allows for an easier job of filling in the bumper pockets, and I want to build returnes in the grill to give the "open mouth" a more finished appearence. I've worked with urethane body parts in thr past and found it dificult and time consuming to get a professional looking finished product. Also the adheasion promotors are hit and miss on the ABS adheasives and that can result in having to repaint the custom body work. Could be that this old dog can't learn the new tricks, stuck in the fiberglass mentality. So for now I just have to keep looking. I am going to look into the use of a carbon fiber airdam, and it's compatibility with the fiberglass epoxy systems. Perhaps I can get around the delema in that way. The part is more money, but I can buy one off the shelf locally.

doesn't sound good. I'm dying to get my hands on a fiberglass airdam for my car. any leads will be a great help!

I'm looking for fiberglass body parts for my 240Z.....still. Has anyone out there bought from this store in the past? If so what was your impression of the parts quality? http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html

Check the hoses going to the vapor tank, they are a pita to replace, and that was the problem on my 73.

If the new one looks right, and is leather, try this. Go to a shoe store or better yet a tack shop and get some leather conditioner. Put the boot in a ziplock bag and drown it in the conditioner over night. Did that to mine.(my girl is into horses and I used the stuff she uses on her bridals & tack) That boot got so nice and soft it was amazing. The conditioner was like $6.00 a bottle.

Try disconnecting the new condenser, it may be shorted. Take the cap off, turn on ignition and check potential voltage across the open points, should see 12v, if not something is not connected correctly.

A coffee can? SWEET!!!

I had an older MR250, same basig powertrain on a different frame. That motor does not have a stator (alternator) in it. only makes enough power to support ignition. I think you need to put a stator and rectifier in her.

do you have a fiberglass front spoiler/ airdam similar to this laying around?

Never had this puoblem on a Datsun, but Had this exact problem in a Toyota. It just started to funk out one day. Look at the clutch peddal bushing and pivot pin. Just a suggestion, I don't even know what that apparatus looks like on our cars.

This is the setup that came on mine, 10 inch twin tubes. No fume issues, and at appx. 5 inches past the bumper it looks like hell and will punch a hole in your leg if you aren't careful. However, it directs the sound and fumes away from the car and after going to a header I think it runs about as good as any 240 I have ever been in or driven. I thought about changing it but after talking to some british car fans, the consensis seems to be that it is a nice stainless steel system and is designed to do just what it does. So, it will stay.

The O2 sensor is also going to be affected by smog stuff adding fresh air to the system, thats why I like the pyrometer, exhaust temp is a great way to measure the combustion process, critical on forced induction motors. The problem is, when you find a problem with fuel injection systems, you end up throwing cash at it. I love my carbs, you can basically fix any problems with a swiss army knife.

http://www.autometer.com/media_newsarticle.aspx?yr=2007&mo=5&pg=1&aid=66 Check this out, might be the closest you will get to your search. I love the autometer stuff, tough as nails and really accurate.

You can put a pyromerer in the header and use exhaust temp. to dial in the mixture. You will have to do some research to find your ideal goal temp. That is the cheapest way. The best way is to put the car on a dyno and have someone who knows his stuff speed tune the intake.

The swaybar is a relatively easy part to remove, so maby its better to go sway bar first and decide on the struts and springs later. Could be that the SB will give you what you want ans save some dough for the five dollar gas that we will be burning soon.

Point taken, I still prefer the harder metals for shimstock, even in low torque applications. More so when you are trying to match thickness at several different points. I never had to do the job described here, so I'll just shut up now.