5thhorsemann

I don't think its a good idea to use aluminum shims, they will crush when torque is applied. Go to McMaster carr and get stainless steel shimstock. High tolerance, no crush factor, and reusable with excelent repeatability. Afterall, you may have to do things twice, if you use aluminum you will not get the same result the second time. Just my 2 cents.

First, get a real manual. The Chilton books suck, they are 80% at best. If the PO was into the wiring with cutters and electrical tape, you could be in for a real nightmare. I had a similar experience on an old Nova I had years ago, heres what I did. First, get a signal toner. Smash a light bulb and insert it into the brake light socket. Connect the toner to the + side of the filiment perch and you can trace the wire through the chassie. This is the most direct aproach. Make sure you get a good toner, weak signal/ strong reciever, a bit more expensive, but much easier to use on a car. Have fun.

The ins. co. will try to beat you up on price. The key is to fight back through a few offers then buy the car back from them and salvage as much as you can. Buy another car of the same type, use what you can and sell the rest. It can be a lot of work, but you will come out "ahead" in the long run. Make sure you get the car home, or somewhere safe A.S.A.P. to avoid the impound charges. Don't know how it is in TX., But in MD. the tow companies stick it to you hard, makes it not worth buying the wreckage back.

Check out the Kreem kit offered through motorcycle shops. I've used it many times on bike tanks and never had a problem. Just make sure to do the clean and etch steps to the letter. Good luck.

Also check out Hagerty, they insure mine for a declaired value of $4000. As the car is upgraded I can add to it's value and the payment is adjusted accordingly at any time, don't have to waite for renewal. and it is really reasonable. Sorry to hear about your luck Inf.

Wow, I catch threads like this and see just how lucky I got with mine. All I need is suspension and some plumbing fix's and I could go straight to paint. No body work required, other than some molding work I want to do up front. Nice job!

Ive been actively looking for a 370 for almost a month now, both of the ones you are looking at are on the higher end price wise. If you buy the 10 this year, you will loose a considerable chunk of change in 2 weeks. The 09 will drop in value as well. Check the local auctions in your area first. Many dealerships are going to try and dump cars before the calender year expires. You may find a dealer that will buy a car on auction for you at a 5 to 10 % fee. You may end up with a car at or below its 2011 year value. I missed one at the Manheim auction that went for just over 18K, 09 sport, silver, 7280 miles, mint condition, traded in on a 2010 touring model. It came with all dealer and service records. Also, if you do get the 10 this year be sure to do the deal in total before the 31st while its still "NEW", you can save cash on the financing and insurance.

Isn't the exhaust isolated, weight-wise, on a turbo car? We can argue this point endlessy, my point is that if you remove part of the structure,the integrity of that structure is compromized. Cutting the header up is a fools bet. if you are going for one race, thats one thing. If you are trying to put a header on a street car, or a daily driver, you are asking for trouble by cutting up the header flange. It's bad advice, and a stupid way to fix a problem that was created by the welder that bent the metal while fusing the parts in the first place. I'd like to see you take a Saws-all to a $300 part to solve a 1/4 inch fitement issue. I'm not looking to throw you under a bus, just saying that this is not the sort of problem that requires a torch and saw.

the nismo gasket is a crush type.

That is a 6 into 2 header, the flange keeps the 2 peices honest. Since there are no stud penetrations through the flange you will lose the shared torque of all the sprung washers and effectively create a smaller amount of resistance to support the weight of the exhause system. Seems to me that this will cause the gasket to fail. I have never liked the design of the intake/exhaust manifold mounting on these cars, not a fan of having to pull the intake for an exhaust leak and vise versa. Cutting up a new header in stead of straitening it is a bad idea, desperation in stead of inginuity.

If you still have the electric pump at the tank end, which was a recall addition to stop the vaporlock problem. Check the filter in the pump, or do what I did and remove it altogether, its not necessary with the round tops. I had a similar problem at 3000 rpm, junked the electric pump and it took care of the issue. As far as tank rust, pull the drain plug and catch the fuel in a large clean tub, you will see if rust is an issue.

My header was flat like this one, no ridge like on a V8 header. I used a NISMO gasket without any sealents and it sealed up fine, I wouldnt cut that header, you will end up replacing gaskets all the time as the header will work it's way loose as the motor rocks around in the mounts. just straiten the flange.

The rings that go around the pipes at a wall or floor penetration.

I'd contact the manufacturer first, see what they have to say. I bought a used header on ebay and it had a warped head plate. I flattened it out on a steel table by clamping it down with shims under the high spots so it could over bend a bit. Just took my time and worked it slowly. After I bolted it on it sealed up nicely without a problem, be sure to work from the center out when torquing it down, and don't overtighten or you can damage the aluminum head.

I have a 240 now, had a 260 years back, sold that, have driven a 300, had a 350 that got crushed and just drove the 370 yesterday. Man, you have got to drive a 350 or 70. They are screamers.

235/60r14 on 8" wheels

I take it you are not a plumber.

Wow, that convertable version is a really uglu car. Is it a factory design or a customizers creation?

Well, I went and did the test drive this afternoon, here are my thoughts on the car. Power is much better than the 350, lots more torque, and the car feels quicker too. The tranny is cool, downshifting is the difference. It is a little hard to get used to when you are looking to slow going into a turn, you will need to use more break, as the motor revs a bit when you downshift. The stick and clutch feel about the same. The car does feel heavier, I think because the suspension is a little softer then the 350 and you get more dive and roll when turning and breaking. It still has a sportscar ride though, I like the way you can feel the road through the car and the wheel. Good feedback on the break peddal as well. The interrior is somewhat plain compared to the 350, I like that too, but I don't think it will hold up as well as the 350's. I think I would be fine driving the car coast to coast,but I like a hard ride. The handeling is about the same as a 350, aside from the body roll, I can hardly tell the difference. It does exactly what you expect it to. It is in no way shape or form an S30. It's a silver car, like my 240Z, I want a blue one, and based on what I've read here I think I'm going to have a dealer friend of mine scout the Manheim auction for a blue sport or Nismo model. I talked to him last night and he tells me he has seen quite a few of these cars come across the block, and since I'm paying cash, I will get a better deal there. There is one more auction this year and the december auctions have the best prices of the year.

How many miles did you put on it in those 6 months?

you can bet that there is a huge differance the 350 is like driving a roles roice being launched from a cannnnon compared to the 240. Aside frome the liniage, what would be the conection? I can no closer come to the joy of high speed 350 driving, in a 240,than I can come to the pure "Feel it in your pants" tight road driving a 240, in a 350. The new cars with their power everthing, makes for a cool ride. But, the seat of your pants feel of a car, that was designed to spark a feeling in the seat of your paints, is the old dog. drive in the 240, you steer it, you shift it, you drive it, you'll love it OK, you win.

you've already been in one for a year and a half? Guess that makes sence thinking about it, My lineage goes from big heavy mid 60's muscle car, to jap car, to American motorcycle to the next thing. Never can tell what will spring up tomorrow

Vintageracer, Have you remaind in touch with the PO's (Racers Cafe crew), I have been trying to get in touch with one of the drivers of the car from the 1990 race, David Duda. We were "drinking buddies" back then, and I was trying to find out if he still was lugging around parts for the old Z's. I know he left Parkville years ago, but I've had no luck trying to contact him.

thats too funny LOL LOL

Thats a good point, buy a set complete locall and have them installed and painted. Sell your shells and rusted complete doors and you may walk away with what you want on your car and come close to a brake even point money wise. Or at least go a long way to funding the swap.