5thhorsemann

Answered my own question, The Nightrider was in a 72 HQ Monaro. Kind of close from memories of a movie I haven't seen in over 25 years.

Was that the car "The Nightrider" was driving in the original "Mad Max"?

I can tell you that the 350 was an awesom driver, one of the saddest days of my life when it got wrecked. That car took a shot in the rear by a jeep wagoneer at 55mph (I was stopped) and I walked away without so much as a bruise. It pushed the hatch onto the roof about 7" and shortened the car by about a foot, and wedged the spare tire against the rear strut brace so tightly that we couldn't budge it. NONE of the glass broke, the doors and hatch stayed closed, and the air bags DID NOT go off. It was one tough, and super fun car to own. The 240 showed up outside my bedroom window before I made a decision to get a used 350 or a new 370. I fell in love with it and sort of swindled the PO out of the car. With this new opportunity,it looks like this may end up making the decision for me.

So My girlfriend wants to go look at a 370Z sport demo, she says we can pick it up for under $25k if we buy before the end of the year. I had a 350Z touring and loved the car as a driver, but thought it a was bit ugly, with that awful hump in the roof and the corner lights. The 370 fixed alot of those things that I didn't like about the 350 and is in my opinion a sharp looking car. As I understand it, it was for the last 5 or 6 months, a managers take home car and it has about 12000 miles on the clock. I'm gonna show up at the dealership in my 240 for the test drive. If I can get this car for that money, I'll be building a car barn over the Holiday's.

Thats what I'm talkin bout'. Once the flats come off and those are installed and tuned the smiles will be big and long. Yank all that smog gear and install a pertronix ign system, also replace all the hoses while you are in there, and check the ones at the tank. GOLDEN!!!

Don't think that part is for a 260Z, is it a new part or a swap-meet-swindle....I, I, I mean special?

The 1000 mile initial oil change at the switchover from conventional oil or semi syn to full syn is an amsoil recomendation. They say that by the 1k mile mark the first dose of synthetic has "consumed" all of the residual conventional oil and suspended it in the synthetic. This hampers the new oils ability to deal with condensation in the crankcase. It's not a harmfull thing, It's like taking out the trash is all. You can go the full year on the first synthetic change (and with todays prices who would blame you) without risking any harmfull side effects. Afterall, used Amsoil is better than the best conventional oil on the market.

From your lips to God's ear, I can't get anyone from Ground Control to reply to my questions, guess I'll have to become an expert on my own. Doing alot of reading and think I'm well on my way.

Quote from GNOSE: Did anyone notice the air dam being deflected at speed? Thats why I have been trying to track that spoiler down in fiberglass (without the blinker cutouts). The abs is too forgiving and makes it tough to mould the front together. Still looking though.

you bet

Mine did that before the Pertronics install, think it might have been a coincidence?

Thanks for the info.

No, they run across the back and drop down through the floor pan on either side of the spare tire well, you have to remove the right side interrior panel and panel that goes across the back. Just push the center pins out of the plastic fasteners and gently pull them out the pins will be on the floor pan ready for re-use. You acn see where the 1/2 inch line enters the tank by looking under the car where the exhaust exits the body on the left side, that hose actually contains fuel on a full tank. That one usually fails first.

Ask Ztherapy directly, send him pics as well, are the manifolds included?

DO NOT POST PICTURES OF FRESH SNOW!!! We got almost 8 feet of the nasty stuff here in Maryland last year, 5 feet of which fell in a 4 day period! That "LUMP" of snow shown in the second pic is on top of my Z, thought it would crush the suspension, 12 hours after this pic was taken it began to snow again, 2 days later there was another 31 inches of snow on top of what you see here. And to think I was afraid to leave the car in the barn for fear of collaps. In these two storms I measured a total of 58 inches in my driveway. No where to put the stuff after a while. It really sucked. By the way, The flat tops are trash, even without the duct tape, get rid of em. Also, looking at the condition of your hoses, you had better check out the vapor lines in the back of the car. What I see there is almost exactly like what mine looked like when I got it last year. (73 240Z) The second time I filled her up the left side balancing hose just fell apart at the pump and dumped like 4 gallons on the gas station lot, not a goot feeling. There is a 1/2",5/8" and 3/4" line inside the cockpit that I will bet have never been touched. you need to check them out!

Wripped it down last night. The tap is worn , the rest was all good. I tweeked it a bit and polished it (the tap). and it reads 10 ohms to 90 ohms on the spot. Great idea, never even occoured to me to repair a part like this one. You-da-man.

The upside of the remote setup is you can shop the filters at places like grainger. You can literally get whatever filtration size you would want. I think we may be blowing this thread out of proportion, just a bit. After all, part of the beauty of the S30 is it's simplicity of design.

Are there any speed humps in SoCal? I wouldn't make it out of the driveway with that car. I think my mower deck sits higher. Looks cool, not real world functional, ya think.

I'm not disagreeing with you, but, it moves freely, the float is visually fine, has no liquid inside it, and the sender reads infinite across the terminals. So in my mind, the tap is not making contact, or there is a broken solder joint somewhere (an easy fix) or the winding is bad. That said, I'm going to hook up the meter and test the sender through its range of movement, might be able to eliminate one or more of my theories.

How much crap would a an oil filter realistically need to capture in a well maintained street engine? I change the oil every year @ 2 to 3000 miles on the clock and it looks almost new. Close to nothing clinging to the magnetic oil plug. I am now considering a remote filter, where you only need change the element, and add a full quart of oil capacity, with an oil cooler. Summit racing has a few different models available.

40 awg wire, the smallest wire size available, has a resistive load of 1.049 ohms per foot. So it would take roughly 96 feet to create a tap resistive winding from 10 to 90 ohms. what do you insulate the winding with to withstand this enviornment (gasoline soaked)? Seems like alot of work for a $60 part.

when you load the system and ron thr rpm up to lets say 2k, what wappens?

The Fram TG seems to be a good filter in comparason, not the best, but good.

Why, they filter well, have a dependable check valve, and are made by a company that specilizes in filtration products?

when you make the switch to full synthetic, only leave the first shot in for 1000 miles, then do another change. The synthetic will loosen alot of the conventional oil sludge and debries in that period. Next change in 3000, then go to a 5000 mile regiment. I like the Amsoil, based on the wear test performance data that I've read. Do a bit of homework, happy motors make for happy drivers.