5thhorsemann

Designers are constsntly ripping eachother off. When something works or looks great, it gets incorperated into the next generation of products. That is the definition of evolution.

Try draining the oil and coolent, then using a leakdown test fitting put some compressed air in the cylinders (60 to 80 psi) then tap the head with a dead blow. I've used this method with success on several motors in the past. Start on #2 then go to #4. If you have broken studs on a common cylinder, hit that one with pressure first. Lock the crank in position to keep the pressure from driving the piston down. Don't get desperate and jam a steel blade against your aluminum head or you WILL be going to the machine shop to resurface the head. That is the last resort.

jeese, lots of rules here, whats wrong with the i got-you want exchange? I know im on double- secret- probation & what not, but why make people jump through the extra hoops? just a question.

lets face it, we would all leap at the chance to have this car. Imagin the feel of the shifter in your hand, draging it back into fourth at 8k on a fall night on a lonley road. I would be out in mine now, not for the cluster phuck of a vent system on the gas tank, 1/2 5/8 3/4 1/4 and 3/8 hose all to the same part, try to find these replacements at the local parts store, at 8 pm on a saturdday night.

Just send me a PM if you want them.

I have a set of 73 front brackets, what are they worth to ya?

Is this a gay site or something? Patients? sensitivity? all I was trying to do was to find an airdam and some suspension parts! You people are starting to creep me out! For the love of God, someone tell me that a 240Z is STILL considered a hotrod in the outside world' lest young chicks consider me an over the hill freak. BTW GNOSEZ,I like the airam on your race car, if you wreck it try to steer out of the front end, I'll buy the spoiler, if its made of F glass that is.

U joints will usually make a rythmic noise when they fail kind of a "hee-haw-hee-haw....repeat over and over" and changes with speed. Grinding is a bearing or gear issue. Also look to see if anything is hitting or rubbing on the shafts or the drive shaft, like the exhaust pipe.

sorry:finger:

BITE ME GNOSEZ, GUESS THAT YOUR WAY IS THE ONLY WAY. All I was asking is if anyone knows who makes the part, and if they would be so kind as to share the information, or feed the beast. Don't be such a bitch, this stuff is a hobbie we do for fun, puriten snob.

See what i mean, lots of options, but no meat. Look at the spoiler and feed the beast. Tough to be set in your ways.

Simpley put, the smaller the patch, the easier it is to get it right. Right? Besides, thats a deep pit to fill, three times the material.

I like the look for one, It also provides a place to glass in support brackets. Im loosing the steel headlamp buckets and feel more support down low would be a good thing.

WTF is an INR?

I've been looking for a fiberglass airdam like the one shown here, but I'm having a hard time finding this type without the blinker holes. I have the fiberglass shugar scoops and I want to eliminate the bumper and glass the whole front end together, no seams. I'm finding them all day long in ABS, or with blinker cut outs, but this is the one I want, without blinkers, with the rectangular ducts. So far I'm having no luck. If anyone has one they are looking to get out from under, I'm looking to buy. Don't care if it is damaged, I can fix the fiberglass while I'm moulding the parts together. I do have a reasonably clean front bumper with all the brackets & trimmings (the parking hornes are not so nice), as well as the AC system, less the thermostat and, flat top carbs with the intake & exhaust manafolds (stock) and smog pump, that I would be willing to trade, or sell outright. this is all 1973 240Z stuff.

They are cheap enough, give it a whirl. It can't damage the gauge.

Fyi compound is as, if not more, important than size when it comes to handeling. Just a thought.

Fat tires rule!!!

Boarded out or not, I have to say that's a sharp ride. Like my lil Z car more, but wouldn't kick it out of the shed for leaking crank seals.

Just looked this up at the spring shop, indeed, reman specs call for a longer spring on the pasenger side. Why is it that this is not mentioned in any of the literature I have on this car?

Don't you think you all are being a little hard on the Beaver?

The two front springs are not the same length? Measuring between the turnes, it looks like the right spring is 1/2" longer, not saging. measuring the coils with a taylors tape, there is definetly more coil there, almost 7 inches! Can this be right?

Anyone?

Here is what was removed RT, FRONT= 16 1/4" tests at 149 LB/IN LT FRONT= 15 3/4" tests at 149 LB/IN RT REAR= 15 1/2" tests at 158 LB/IN LT REAR 15 3/8 tests at 151 LB/IN I am told this is 1" over stock, likely 150LB/IN front and 160 lb/in rear. Would this make sense to anyone, The two front springs are not the same length?

What is the stock rate and length for the 73 Z springs anyway? I know what I have isn't stock.