5thhorsemann

Captain, have you had a chance to blueprint the blocks? If so would you consider selling a set of prints?

WOW, you are gonna brake something doing the jack drop thing, I see a punctured gas tank in your future if you do that opperation at a higher RPM like you should. Tow the car around the block in 5TH gear AFTER you verify the master and slave are working as they should.

I have been struggeling with this modification since I first saw that white car. The front bumper has been gone for months, the rear is still up in the air, I keep going back and forth like a woman shopping for shoes.

I've used the Holley pumps in the past, never had a problem with them. Since I'm using the returne circuit, the pump should run stress free, as long as there is pressure at the suction side of the mechanical pump, it should be fine. I will be watching everything closely for a while to make sure I don't overfeed the bowls and wash the motor down. Like you said, time will tell.

Captain, first let me say beautiful job, it does my heart good to see that there are still people out there that know how to turn handels. I had to sell my Brigeport EZtrack 5 years ago for lack of shop space at the new location, and I miss it very much. I think you could produce these things in lots of 100 or so (50 sets) in rapid fasion if you make the tooling blocks based on the prototype parts. I have been looking for a decent replacement for the spray bar since I bought the car with no luck. I would be very intrested in a "Rebuild kit" that would contain the blocks and fittings. A slight design modification suggestion, if I may be so bold. Replace the steel slip bracket with an aluminum block that accepts the end of the tube and supports the last 1/2 to 3/4 inch of the tube. Of course you will have to machine the cam side face of the tube boar open to allow oil to spray the close lobes,(create a "C" profile as viewed from the end) That would allow you to open the tolerance at the slip conection, and the larger interface section will hold oil which will dampen the vibration and allow for smooth, stress free sliding of the floating ends durring thermal cycles. Your thoughts.....

Okay, so I had to waite till today to do the install as I had to order the gauge for the regulator. The pump is a little bigger than it looks, the only nice place to mount it, and have room for a high quality filter, was on the bracket that the jackpot mounts to. I was having a hard time manipulating the mounting hardware on the back side of the bracket around the moushtash bar and such, so instead of drilling and bolting I used two beam clamps to mount the pump, it works really well. I put the regulator up in the front corner on the inner fender which makes all the hoses as short as possible. So I presurized the system and checked for leaks, it's all good, started the car and adjusted the pre mechanical pump regulator to 3 to 4 PSI and let her run for a while to make sure the bowls on the SU's were not overflowing, again, all good. So now I wanted to see if Blue's idea of inlarging the return restriction was necessary. I removed the returne line from the fuel rail and put a quart glass jug on it, I turned the pump on with stopwatch in hand, the electric pump alone pumps a quart in 8 seconds thru the return pipe. So thats almost 2 GPM and I think that should be plenty of bypass to combat the vaporlock, so I'm gonna reserve the drilling of the rail as a last resort. I'll report back on the next hot day.

I have to agree with Blue, it doesn't sound like valve train noise, the frequency is too high. Look at the belts and check the timing chain, something draging or rubbing against it. Chain tensioner? A stethiscope would help you out to narrow the culprit down to a specific area of the motor. My stock alternator was making that sort of noise and transmitting the sound to the motor via the brackets. FWIW

Dude, your car isn't the money pit, your wish list is. If we would just stop changing things and force ourselves to leave well enough alone, these cars are as cheap as any to keep on the road. Now shut up and spend all the cash you have to make the car exactly the way you want it, and if your wife starts crying about it, give her a reason to cry.

Crushing your nuts in a vice is a bad idea!!! But seriously, they are deformed and hardened to a specification, too much "crush" and you can damage the stud or head casting, or both. Not enough and the nut could loosen when it heats up. Spend the couple of bucks and get the good parts made to go into an aluminum head.

I would just tow the damn thing behind a pickup truck in 5th gear, motor not running (make sure the brakes work) with the clutch depressed on a 20 foot tow rope. Once the disk pops loose pump the clutch a few times to clear the rust. FWIW

You tell me after conversing with some of the locals, it's BEW (or even BIEW)-WIEY. Not like the knife at all.

Are you driving the Z? Would love to see it in person. I don't know if mine will be road worthy or not, but I'm not that far from Bowie. (Pronounced Bewwiey, Hon)

Warning; Test driving your new camera here could result in broken balls!

I don't know Buddy, looks awesom. I would persue the Mikunis tripple filters and modify the backer plates to fit your intake, and don't forget the velocity stacks.

Dude, you have a bad ground somewhere and something is grounding thru the turn signal indicator...........Many of us have been there, ENJOY!! BTW, love the Avatar!!!

Nice car!!! but you have to take the wacky weed away from the camera man, I started feeling air sick for a second or two.

dik!!!

Do a thread search on the msa stuff, it has been covered several times.

What you are saying is correct, somewhat. Deformed thread lock nuts are one shot, you need to replace the nut and stud or bolt if you remove the nut for service work as the thread deformation causes gauling of the male threads which is the locking mechanism. We have a deformed nut, meaning the thread is slightly out of round, but not so bad as to damage the threads when removed. When you reassemble the nut and stud connection it should go together tightly, meaning you can't turn the nut onto the stud without the use of tools. As long as that is the case you can reuse that hardware, if you can fully engage the male and female threads by hand you need to replace both stud and nut because they are worn out. Hope this helps.

I got my pump today, it will go on this evening. I know the carbs are set up right because when the temp hits 97 to 100 degrees is when the problem starts. If I pop the hood at speed it goes away. I'll see what the pump does, It's not supposed to get hot enough this week to be an issue, so time will tell.

Run the proper size drill bit down the hole by hand before you tap the head to be sure you don't brake the tap off in the head. Then open up the hole in the sprung washers to accept the bigger hardware.

Walter, I have considered the fan idea, but haven't yet found a fan setup that looked like it would be both ellegant and trustworthy. Blue, great idea, as usual, I will be sure to add that modification when the pump goes in. Steve, I used a ceramic wool, wrapped in FG mesh (header wrap) held in place using aluminum tape with the reflective side out. The fuel rail is isolated from the head and mounting hardware using pheonalic washers. I can't see how I could better protect the rail from heat. Scarab, I haven't looked into the louvers, but it is a good looking alternative. Thanks men!

US, you know who you are.

So how far from a "street legal" car is Pinky?

I don't have any lock washers on any of the intake oe exhaust studs or bolts. The only lock washers are on the carb to manifold connections. But I will be watching this thread for input.