5thhorsemann

Blow the motor off with a good leaf blower, NOT COMPRESSED AIR as that can cause a host of problems, after an engine bay dousch. You likely got some water in an electrical connection or somewhere else it dosn't belong. Also, pressure washers are a no no, they can blow gaskets and all kinds of other damage. What year and model, that info could get you better more specific things to check.

My 73 came stock with a 30 amp alt, the IR 60 made the car much more reliable and drivable after dark. FWIW

Yea, NASCAR lost me decades ago with the restricted horse power and "all things being equal and safe" mentality. Just because you build a car that can go 300 MPH, dosn't mean the driver will go balls to the walls and kill himself. I think they should return to the "race your brand days" when Petty was the king, and it was all about who could build the best car and handel that car in that type of racing. Not just anyone could have had that title if they were driving a beast like the old Dodge Hemmi. The other brands and teams crying "Thats not fair" got us where we are (like so many other things in the world) I say victory to the strongest, THE RUDE DOG GETS THE BIG BONE and let the puppies and kittens stay on the porch!

It's amazing how safe you feel behind the wheel when you can actually see the road, I didn't go projector but relays and halogens sure beat the 5 candel power highbeams I started with.

I would also go for the regolator eliminator plug, saves a bunch of work and headachs, like frying the diods in a new alt that you are buying from over 1000 miles away. Call me crazy, but I think it would be worth every penny.

Yes, the internally regulated alt consolodates two potential problems into one package. It also is easier to find one in a pinch if it fails and it has a higher current output. I would strongly recommend the headlight relay upgrade on a 240 or 260 along with this upgrade. I'm not as familiar with the 280Z electrical system, so maby one of our more learnid 280Z members can chime in on this comment.

Been there done that, don't want to remember (cringe)

Take a cab, order the plug and play regulator eliminator and use the internally regulated alt. Take yours off and have it tested before you go any further and blow up your battery or catch the car on fire.

Also, when (if) you use a gauge to check pressure at the carbs, pinch off the returne line and note the difference between open and closed. If the pressure is low that is.

I should that BD is $40 a set cheaper than MSA and they look to be the same part.

Didnt think of them, order placed, thanks Bonzi.

Don't misunderstand me, I don't think it will make a difference, but if I only crank for 5 seconds in stead of 6 I would be happy. I am looking forward to see what the difference is at speed, the car runs awesom without them. So does anyone have a source for good quality new or used stacks?

Looks NICE! Might change my mind on the painting those parts.

Was it a 1968 340 GT Dart?

I understand what the velocity stacks are designed to do, but extending the throat of the carb should still increase the vacuum in the carb body at startup.

Well, MSA is sold out for at least 2 months, any other sources for new or used out there?

Where do you find this $#!t, too much B&G.

I just ordered a set, the reason I'm going for them now is that I want to see if they aid in cold starts by increasing the vacuum at the jets, all be it ever so slightly. Anything I should look for after this addition?

I used the VHT exhaust paint on my header, it burnt off in a few weeks. when I get some fun money together I'll have it ceramic coated, but thats another subject. I've never had much luck painting the aluminum parts of a motor, usually polish that stuff or just leave it be.

Nice work, killing a Pacer is a public service, believe they are still on the top ten worst cars ever made list, I know they are a top 50 hit. http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/completelist/0,,1658545,00.html

Be sure that whatever paint you use you pick one that isn't high build (low mill thickness) and disipates heat. The "natural" finish on the aluminum parts allows them to shead a ton of heat. And heat is no friend to the Z engine compartment.

Oh, don't get me wrong, I have a whole album of pictures of ALL the cool old cars and trucks I've owned, once in a while I look thru them and get sad that I dont have some of them anymore, and get happy that I wasn't killed when I wrecked the 73 Torino, I hit a tree at about 110 mph, got into it just before the front passenger side tire and removed the door, rear quarter, trunk lid and floor and most of the back end. The rear right wheel (what was left of it) was in the trunk still bolted to the axel. I needed 5 stitches over my right eye and broke two fingers, thats it. If I would have hit it strait on with the bumper I would be a goner. The car went about a quarter mile after hitting the tree.

Man, I wish we had all these video gadgets back in the day, I would love to have videos of my old 68 Dart GT, 70 and 73 Torino GT's and the fastest of the fast, my 66 Olds f85 rocket. Damn I miss those days..................

That too, good point. It also dampens vibration and will protect the painted surfaces from wear at the contact points. If you really think about it, I would use the tape.

If youre alt is putting out 17 volts, it's okay, change out the regulator. Look at the MSA link and search the catalog for "alternator upgrade" there is a plug that replaces the regulator that contains a diode to accomodate turning the car off and draining the battery when sitting. Then all you need is a internally regulated alt. I'm just not sure if you would use the same plug and alt as a 240.