5thhorsemann

Insulators or the isolators for the hold down clamps, i recall a good recent thread on those but I can't find that one either.

Really?

Go figure.

What year & model?

FWIW, I ran the 30A 12V supply to the common lug (center) on the head lamps and used the relays to ground the high and low beams and toggled the relays at the high and low switch output. Less wiring and the high beam indicator works correctly. If I get some time I'll make a schematic, but work is calling rite now.

This will work correctly on the 240 and give you the high beam indicator light when the high beams are actually on.

If I may throw in my 2 cents, use a 30 amp automotive circuit breaker as apposed to a fuse. The cost is roughly the same as a fuse block and it will reset once it cools down, if you have a short you can trouble shoot it and be on your way without having to get a new fuse.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=ViewItem&_rdc=1&item=330681992301&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp5197.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D%2B330681992301%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1 A link for the lazy folks like myself. Have to agree with the mid teens on price. And where's the propeller shaft?

Priceless.

Why is it that we spend all our free time getting rid of the "patina" on our classic cars to increase their value and appeal, and yet if you clean one of these rare collectables you get just the opposite. My father was in the German army in WWII, he saved all of his old gear until the day he died including his combat helmet, SA dagger, decorations, uniform and his Lugar. He was an officer and was allowed to keep that gear when the surrender happened at the end of the war. Over the years he was diligent in maintaining these relics and when they were passed on to me I decided to get them appraised for insurance purposes. The militaria expert I took the collection to told me that if he would have thrown the lot in a box and dumped it in the cellar I could sell the stuff piece by piece for a small fortune. Since it is all in immaculate condition and as clean as the day of his last inspection, it would have to be sold as a complete collection with all of his documentation included to fetch top dollar, which is a considerable sum. Of course, these are family heirlooms which are priceless to us, so I keep them the way he did, clean and polished. I even take the pistol to the range and run some ammo through it occasionally, which pisses off the collectors, but it’s mine and guns were made to be used

Bodymore Murderland (Baltimore, MD), our crime rate is much higher than Detroit.

Also look aty the rubber alignment pads along the fenders to see if one or more are set too far inboard. I had this same problem when I first got my 240, the pads were swolen from the application of chemicals by the PO. I replaced them with new pads, problem solved.

A bit of lithium grease will make the job seam less brutal and make clean up go easier as well.

Just because you said you fixed the "open header", check the exhaust pipe(s) to make sure that its not hitting the body under side when the motor torques.

280z's do not have VL problems, that is a carbed car's problem.

12 o'clock looking down on the cap from the drivers side.

I saw one of those on ebay a few months back, it's an overhead radio mount, nasty looking thing. My advice, remove it and move on.

With the lowered suspension I think the 225 will rub up front, I run 235's and they rubbed before I went with the stiffer springs. The 205 fronts and 225 or 235 T/A's in the rear will fit and I don't think the under steer will be worse than the stock tire size was. Beware the T/A's, they are the easiest to find in these sizes in 14 inch, but they are a PITA to ballance and they are notorious for being out of round. Excperience talking here, read this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43905-Death-to-the-death-wobble&highlight=death+wobble

Contact some restoration shops for referals. These are old school cars and they require more skill than spreading urethane glue. Check the condition of the rubber around the glass to see if that needs replaced at the same time.

Did you pump grease into all the fittings?

Radio power filter, or noise suppressor is what you need (capacator + coil + resistor) it's not that the car is warm, it's the battery gets a full charge and the alternator isn't putting out as much current.

Just as a side note, there are several threads here about the "dreaded death wobble" steering wheel shake. My front end had it and I made changes to the suspension but all any individual modification or upgrade was able to do was change the speed and intensity of the steering wheel shake. I took the wheels off and speed / match balanced the wheels, tires and rotors on the front. That cured the shakes. I would recommend you go that route FIRST to make sure the balance is right so you aren't chasing problems that don't exist. Might save alot of time and money once you start modifing your suspension gear. Read this FWIW. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43905-Death-to-the-death-wobble&highlight=death+wobble

Not trying to thread jump or anything, couldnt get pics to post in a PM.

Come sail the Chesapeake Bay during Trophy Rockfish season, tacking and trolling don’t mix. We drag a 75 foot wide plainer cable to spread 14 baits, if the sail boater is too close, or too slow, or doesn’t understand what we are doing it can get messy quick. Fortunately, the weather is usually too nasty to sail at this time of the year.

Obviously, no one is contemplating violence against cyclists here. The fact is that you could change the “motorist vs. cyclist” to “sail boater vs. power boater” (or vice versa) “boater vs. jet skier”, “skier vs. snow boarder” and so on. Shooting or squishing a cyclist is just too damn messy for the stomach of most, I just wish they have a heart attack going up a big hill or run off into the woods going down the other side.