5thhorsemann

Contact some restoration shops for referals. These are old school cars and they require more skill than spreading urethane glue. Check the condition of the rubber around the glass to see if that needs replaced at the same time.

Did you pump grease into all the fittings?

Radio power filter, or noise suppressor is what you need (capacator + coil + resistor) it's not that the car is warm, it's the battery gets a full charge and the alternator isn't putting out as much current.

Just as a side note, there are several threads here about the "dreaded death wobble" steering wheel shake. My front end had it and I made changes to the suspension but all any individual modification or upgrade was able to do was change the speed and intensity of the steering wheel shake. I took the wheels off and speed / match balanced the wheels, tires and rotors on the front. That cured the shakes. I would recommend you go that route FIRST to make sure the balance is right so you aren't chasing problems that don't exist. Might save alot of time and money once you start modifing your suspension gear. Read this FWIW. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43905-Death-to-the-death-wobble&highlight=death+wobble

Not trying to thread jump or anything, couldnt get pics to post in a PM.

Come sail the Chesapeake Bay during Trophy Rockfish season, tacking and trolling don’t mix. We drag a 75 foot wide plainer cable to spread 14 baits, if the sail boater is too close, or too slow, or doesn’t understand what we are doing it can get messy quick. Fortunately, the weather is usually too nasty to sail at this time of the year.

Obviously, no one is contemplating violence against cyclists here. The fact is that you could change the “motorist vs. cyclist” to “sail boater vs. power boater” (or vice versa) “boater vs. jet skier”, “skier vs. snow boarder” and so on. Shooting or squishing a cyclist is just too damn messy for the stomach of most, I just wish they have a heart attack going up a big hill or run off into the woods going down the other side.

Mayo, sweet relish, one can of tuna, fishermans delight.

3M VHB tape. Be sure to mock up the installation carefully and take care to trim the part as necessary before you paint or attach the part to the car perminently. These urethane kit parts can be a PITA to get right. Take your time, measure twice cut once. Use the VHB to hold the part in place then install the mechanical fasteners working from the center out.

So I guess you know where all the discretionary spending will be going. If I may make a suggestion, go Pertronics instead of points, set it and forget it. That comment will draw some hits I’m sure, but I love mine. Nice car!

The switches are under sized for the associated loads IMO, by using the relays you are basically just using the switches for a signal current in the milivolt range which keeps the guts from getting hot. Age is not as big an issue as the lack of capacity in these devices. Even using the isis, you would still be using the original switch gear in many cases to keep the cabin aesthetics original.

Makes for a diferent colored discharge from the intended target, granted, but it's hardly "target specific".

So your not a fan of the cat idea, huh.

Have you tried capping off the brake booster and going for a spin to see if that effects the condition?

Throw a dead cat in the car.

Well said, where can I get the right tuning fork for the L24?

There are definite capacity issues in the Z wiring, under sized conductors, over current and conductivity problems at the fuse block that cause the fuses and the block itself to melt etc. I am not familiar with ISIS, but it has to be better than what’s there now. I have already changed all the wiring associated with the lights, upgraded the alternator, and rebuilt all the switches on the column. Let’s face it, aside from the rust problem, the wiring is the No. 2 issue these cars suffer from.

The 1911 is for decoration, possibly the prettiest automatic ever made. Now, the H&K USP .45ACP, that’s what you need by your side when the uppity bikers go fingering your paint. Or better yet……….Copy of minigun.bmp I don't know why it won't display the attachment, but click on it and see why they don't walk on my grass or lean on my car!

Can't speak to a shifty owner, thats your call. I wouldn't go for this as a daily driver if you aren't skilled mechanically, and have a cash stash you can dip into. Lots of work to do to make it a reliable car, but thats another thread, do some searches and read up on whats necessary to "wake the car up".

$600. is about as low as a running Z will go for, maby bottoming at 500 or 400. If the outside looks that good I don't see how you can get hurt on the car. Worst case is you end up with a parts car for the next Z you find. Try to beat him down on the price of course, but if it's as described I'd pick it up. Just saw the pics, buy it!

$500. is more like it.

Ivory?

I used 3/32" stainless steel all thread that I bought at a local model railroad shop.

More teeth = lower reading (less input RPM) try a 16 tooth gear (white gear)

do you mean these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Cowl-Grille-Retaining-Clip-Set-240Z-260Z-280Z-1970-1978-NEW-/230726147006?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b8599bbe