5thhorsemann

First, I'm NOT trying to "go political" so please don't infract me or give me any more points. I simply think this is a bit of good news for us and our cars, and as usual we won't be hearing about it on the news http://www.historicvehicle.org/Latest-News/December-2011/2011/12/23/Washington-Nixes-Ethanol-Subsidy

FWIW, I have a stainless pipe, think they call them twice pipes, that runs from the stock manifold (on a 73) to just behind the transmission tail stock where where the two smaller pipes combine into one 2 1/2 inch pipe. I cut that section out and replaced it with 2 1/2 inch pipe up to the colector when I installed my new headers. I'm not familiar with the Sebro system, but if this is the style exhaust you are looking for PM me and I will send you pics of it, mabe we can make a deal and save you some money on the custom built system.

If the same blank fits all 4 locks, it might be worth your while to take all of them to the locksmith and have them keyed the same, just a thought.

You're in luck, I have the pasenger seat out of my 73 today. I can take more if you need them but my camera batteries need to be charged, let me know.

I can't remember the exact name of the shop, Classic Interiors or something close to that in west Baltimore, but there are plenty more shops around. They can “tune” the seat springs and reproduce the foam in a density of your choice to give you the level of firmness you want. It only takes a second to pull the seats out of a Z and drop them off. I would go that route.

It's sooooo much easier to pull the ignition off and take to the locksmith. Additionally, and I speaking to cars in general not just Z's, the door and trunk locks do not always have as many pins in the cylinders as the ignition cylinder. If you're uncomfortable pulling thr ignition cylinder yourself, strip the cover off the column and then call in the locksmith to make copies on site. My local dealership said they do not keep the key code records going this far back (73 in my case) so I went to easters lock and key locally who cut the first key for $25 and $5 each for copies which were all tested on the car before I left.

zboy, 72 OJ has summed up in a few words exactly what will happen to you after you procure your new toy. Lets be fair and clear, a Z is a toy. I don’t care how nice a Z you get, you must resolve yourself to the fact that it will have it’s hands in your pocket for as long as you own it. There will be maintenance and repair needs that will have to be addressed, and then there are the selfish wants that will make you loose sleep at night until you brake down and spend the cash. Lowering kits, wheels, carbs, cams, new badges, new rubber, etcetera, etcetera, etcetera……………….

Those are more for stripped nuts and bolts, they will not work well on a stud, trust me I have a set of snap-on's just like them. you're better off with something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66796/ But you will need the smaller version that is available thru Snap-On, at least that is where I got mine that works on 3/16 thru 5/16 studs.

I think the stock brakes on the Z are fine. My 73, aside from a problem that I experienced earlier this year with a bad front bleed and rear wheel cylinder failure, has a very reliable system that provides more than enough stopping power for a street car. If I were going to track days and doing road coarses I would do an upgrade. But for a daily driver or weekend worrior, stock is fine.

Fast Woman is right, "HOT" is a subjective term here. Hot to the touch is good, smokin a$$ hot is no good when you go to extract the stud. After applying the heat give it another shot of the blaster.

Man, that is just plain cool. Not being picky or anything, but is that a sink trap you are using as an exhaust pipe? Looks like there may still be a hair clog that needs snaked out.

Nice car, yes, but $28 K is insane for this thing. You could buy 4 or 5 nice Z's for that money.

NO NO NO vice grips!!! PB blaster, a couple doses and let it soak. Then get a nut to thread on along with a jamb nut, tighten the nuts against eachother and then heat the head around the stud and back the stud out using the inside nut (tightening against the jamb nut). Try not to heat the stud, it will expand against the head, you want to expand the aluminum head and loosen the thread interface. (apply the heat to the boss inside the port, you can see the boss in your picture) If you cant get it that way then go with more distructive methods like the vice grips.

I had the same problem on my 73 last spring. Don't panic, just put the car up on jack stands and reach around the engine/ bell housing from the passenger side and you can feel around and find the release. Once you get your fingers inside the release bracket you can push the lever towards the drivers side and pop the hood, no tools required. Then go to a bike or motorcycle shop and buy a new cable end that attaches with a set screw, cut the jacket back an inch or so and re attach your cable. You're done.

Priceless, I had to plagiarize this fine work and send it to all on my email list, some changes made, but not to the original thought. Thanks, and Merry Christmas.

No takers, $15,600 is a lot of cake for a sight unseen car. I think he might be pumping the car up on ebay to aid in his hageling ability with in person buyers.

$15,600 RNM, 3 hours left.

$14,105, reserve not met.

Coming down to the wire at $13,500, reserve not met http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=250954789159&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I would be more comfortable with that extra 1/2 inch of distance than I am with that rickety a$$ stock spray bar. I wouldn't be concerned with the angle of the spray holes either. The holes in the billet bar could be drilled at an angle to compensate, I don’t know.

Got it, and the 60 amp alt.

Wow, Evoking Shakespeare in this discussion is a stretch, just because we use a keyboard and send button instead of a stylus, parchment and carrier pigeon makes little difference in the debate, me thinks.

I've been noticing the cold weather starts are becoming more difficult, requiring a longer crank to get her pumping. When it starts it only runs on three cylinders at first unless the choke is fully engaged by stepping on the gas pedal while you pull the knob back. Then go half choke after a minute or so till it is up to temp.

It goes between the fork on the linkage, under the washer and cotter pin.

Kim Jong not ill, Kim Jong dead......Bahahahahahahahah! So sorry, had to do it................