5thhorsemann

I hope you guys are right, I bought a Qt. and I hope it will do the pans, sounds like it should be enough.

Thanks guys.

I want to coat some areas of the belly with POR-15 before the government starts dumping carcinogens all over the roads this winter. I don't want to over buy the POR, it is pricey. My question; what is the coverage, in Sq. Ft. for a quart of this stuff, or how much did it take to do one drivers side floor pan within and without. (inside and outside)

I applied the nickel-never seize only to the three leading threads and used a torque wrench to set the bolts. Steel on steel, agreed. But I'm not relying on corrosion to hold a mechanical fastener in place on anything, least of all a motor. Also keep in mind that threads lubricated with never seize will give you a smother and more accurate torque value, so stay at the middle or lower end of the recommended torque range for that connection to avoid damaging the hardware. It has been my experience/ observation, that overtorquing a steel thread against an aluminum thread is at the heart of most broken bolts and studs. I'm not sure if the heat developed during torquing causes the gauling of the threads, or the overtorquing causes the softer thread to crack and deform causing the gauling. I do know that if you prep every female thread with a tap and every male thread with a die and torque the hardware appropriately, you will eliminate 99% of the potential problems that cause the fastener breakage in the future, Besides, if you read the OP, the stud was broken during the installation of the manifolds, which means the part was overtorqued and likely destroyed the aluminum threads before the steel snapped. This is just a result of bad practices by the mechanic .

Sounds like the check valve in the thumper pump is leaking and beginning to fail. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8674 These are the pumps that were installed on the 240's to eliminate the vapor lock issue. The problem with the cyntrifugal pumps (I've heard) is you need to run a regulator to get that low pressure that the SU likes. By the time you get the CF pump and reg, you're way above the price of the Facet pump. Just MHO.

If I "roll" any of these cars, I would wish I was dead afterwards, protection or not. The only Porsche I ever owned was a 914 EFI. The fuel pump failed on it and the Bosch replacement was like $5 or $600 bucks. It was a fun car, but EXPENSIVE to maintain, and not nearly as fun as the 240Z. I likened the 914 to having a teenage son, always the risk of a big unexpected expense everytime it leaves the house. I expect the other Porsche's are the same.

Awesom

That is a stunning example of automotive design, and all your hard work shows. That said, why not paint the wheel weights to give a little camouflage and make them go away?

I can't believe you didn't hear this going on, it had to make a lot of racket. There's no going back with that cam. I don't know much about regrinding cams, but it almost looks like the cam lost it's temper and gauled up with the rocker, once the rocker lost it's temper the soft metals just ate each other up. I'm not saying the cam grinder is at fault, but I'd go that bet before a stuck valve. I do believe that you need to heat treat the cam after you grind it to reestablish the correct hardness

Looks like it got pretty hot, I would go for a new cam or if there is a valve issue, a complete head if I could find one. Ouch!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-jig-bushing-liners/=f7ebbd http://www.mcmaster.com/#end-mills/=f7eeqb http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-repair-inserts/=f7egtq If you use the mating part (manifold) to fabricate a template out of 1/2 inch aluminum stock that bolts to the good fasteners and place the hardened bushing in the hole for the broken or stripped fastener, you will get a really accurate repair. You can use this method to fix the crooked or offset hole you made trying to work around the distributor, just use an endmill instead of the drill bit. I would use a drill press to get the template set up to increase the straitness of the alignment bushing.

If you really want a car like that, make a lowball offer and preface it with logic like I stated above and leave a name and number, you might get the car for less than you think. This is afterall an old custom job that needs a refresh to be all it should be and that will cost you a good bit of cash on top of the purchase price. Work him and see what you can get him down to, I'm sure that potential buyers aren't busting his door down 3 weeks before Christmas in this economy.

$6000. would be the limit, I would start between $35 and $4000. because it is a tinker toy, and I know I would be braking stuff on a car like that all the time.

I think you need to go to hybirdZ with this one, looks like a Space 1999 car to most of us, as far as a Z goes. Everyone around here is running a L motor. FWIW, swap cars are going for less than a comprable "stock" just because parts are easier to identify and replace. Personally, I think I would insult the guy if I were to make an offer.

Why ?

I must disagree with the antisieze on this one, I used that stuff on a Chebby 350 waterpump once years ago, on a long highway trip a few weeks after the waterpump bolts backed out and the pump literally fell off the motor. Given the amount of vibration in the head to manifold interface, I would reccomend the use of a tap to clear the threads and use all fresh hardware on the install, thats nuts, bolts, studs and sprung washers. As for the removal of the stud, if you already drilled into it with the distributor in place, it's FUBAR. The only way to fix it right would be to use a mill and machine out a hole that will accept a threaded bushing. If you are going to replace the motor in the spring, just stuff a new stud in the hole loaded up with metal epoxy, let it set up and then torque the manifolds down. it will do as a temporary fix.

By the way Sarah, you put the handel to your ear, and the point on the part you want to diagnose, it's safer that way.

Exactly!!!!!!!

Learned my new thing for today, thanks M. B.

I think you are right in line with those numbers, my 73 gets similar city milage, but way higher highway, like 22 or 25 MPG. If I don't "drive it like I stole it", I get even better.

Try HLS30-..................

Yiks!

Whats the price on these?

Get a long screw driver, 24 inch, put it on the alt and press your ear to it, it will amplify the sound coming from the alternator. If thats not it, probe around the motor to narrow it down. Also, check out the fan clutch.

Rustolium (and others) makes an aluminum flake paint that looks really nice for a spray bomb. You need to apply it in light coats to avoid figuring, but it does look nice when done rite.