5thhorsemann

Why ?

I must disagree with the antisieze on this one, I used that stuff on a Chebby 350 waterpump once years ago, on a long highway trip a few weeks after the waterpump bolts backed out and the pump literally fell off the motor. Given the amount of vibration in the head to manifold interface, I would reccomend the use of a tap to clear the threads and use all fresh hardware on the install, thats nuts, bolts, studs and sprung washers. As for the removal of the stud, if you already drilled into it with the distributor in place, it's FUBAR. The only way to fix it right would be to use a mill and machine out a hole that will accept a threaded bushing. If you are going to replace the motor in the spring, just stuff a new stud in the hole loaded up with metal epoxy, let it set up and then torque the manifolds down. it will do as a temporary fix.

By the way Sarah, you put the handel to your ear, and the point on the part you want to diagnose, it's safer that way.

Exactly!!!!!!!

Learned my new thing for today, thanks M. B.

I think you are right in line with those numbers, my 73 gets similar city milage, but way higher highway, like 22 or 25 MPG. If I don't "drive it like I stole it", I get even better.

Try HLS30-..................

Yiks!

Whats the price on these?

Get a long screw driver, 24 inch, put it on the alt and press your ear to it, it will amplify the sound coming from the alternator. If thats not it, probe around the motor to narrow it down. Also, check out the fan clutch.

Rustolium (and others) makes an aluminum flake paint that looks really nice for a spray bomb. You need to apply it in light coats to avoid figuring, but it does look nice when done rite.

Coming together nicely, can't wait to see it painted.

Thanks for the info Zed Head, helpfull stuff

My bad, I was thinking 240 dash.

Not a fan of the painted spokes, looks................goopy........clumpy..............too thick...........just not right.

Powder coat gloss black hub and rim with polished stainless steel spokes would be my choice. I'm sure the spokes can be found in stainless somewhere.

Trust me, with a clean 30 amp circuit and the relays powering a set of modern halon bulbs you can see just fine. I'm going to add a set of PIAA projector driving lights in the spring, I installed a seperate relay for them when I did the headlight relays. That is the only reason I'm not going for these, I wish this offer was made 6 months ago, I would have been top of the list.

That answers that.

Bump the thread, can't find any info in my manuals or thread searches. HELP!

Post pics!

Can you show a complete dash pic? That looks like some kind of cover to me, so I think you have a trashed dash under a cover.

I suspect Fast woman has hit the nail on the head, a project to address if the dash ever has to come out for more pressing reasons.

Well, I guess thats good and bad, it means one less thing to fix, but cold air blowing on my hands all winter long. (sigh).......................I HATE F#$KING WINTER!

It's getting cold out so I hooked the heater core back up just now. I get hot air out of the defrost dash vents, but the gimbel vents and the center console vents blow cold. It looks like the flapper duct valves are actuating but they dont change things much. I did remove an aftermarket AC unit, would that change the hot air flow? Do I need something to take the place of the AC evaporator box?

The rear window defroster on my 73 is in excellent condition, and still doesn't work worth a damn. If you are looking to upgrade, do the whole system, it's hard to immagine you would be disapointed.