5thhorsemann

Roger that.

I put a big glob of silicon adhesive on the underside of the cowl and covered it with seran wrap and installed the cowl while it was wet, let it dry a day or so, removed the cowl and trimmed the plastic wrap. Perfect fit, no water issues will ever occour with this "fix".

Get your hands on one of those small torches, like the crack heads use, and heat the clip that holds the hose nut in the body tab, should lift rite out.

Better yet, go to the auto parts store and buy a roll of that chrome strip with the red rubber center bumper and hand it to the guy that did all the sanding work, and ask him if he can install it to protect the lines. You can return it if he doesn't succeed in shoving it down your throat.

Agreed, it's a good idea to know how the L motor feels in the car before you go ripping it out in favor of the 4 cyl.

I love to see that there are still pro's that take great pride in their work. lookin good.

You need to make sure the cylinders seat before you beat on the motor or you could score the walls and or brake a ring.

FWIW, ALWAYS take drilled and slotted rotors to a mcchine shop to be turned, they need to be done on a lathe, and cut in slow passes. A rotor machine at a brake shop is too agressive for the job. My 2 cents.

Do your research on torque increases, torque is a measurement of doing work, or getting from 0 to 60 for instance. Horsepower is a measurement of maintaining the work done by the torque, it only takes 16 HP to keep an F150 pick up at 60 MPH on the highway, so HP is not the really important number. Concentrate on building torque, that is the real power.

A new oil pump.

The PO put a cam in it and new valve train, I don't know the specs as I bought it off his widow without all the paperwork. SU round tops with a 6 into 1 header and 2.5" exhaust. Not sute what rear, 4 speed trans.

Do not drive it hard, brake it in the rite way.

Have you gone thrugh the brake in period yet? sounds like valve seals, "new" doesn't mean "good".

12.6 is quick, but not fast. I had a 72 Grand Torino Sport that was reliably running low 9's, for a daily driver, that is fast. The problem is it would only go strait, handled like a trash truck. I would think my Z runs somewhere in the 13's or 14's, but it will do that through the twisties. The TR as I recall has more torque than our Z's, so gearing will wake it up and give a comprable feel to the TR, then the motor work comes in to get you more top end.

Air impact wrench and a torch around the plug on the case, say no more. Use a 5 wrap of teflon tape on the install to prevent future binding, and never overtighten fill and drain plugs.

My bad, I stand corrected.

Why would it even out after 50MPH if it's starved for fuel at 45MPH?

Fuel pump volume and float valve size are much more significant than bowl volume. Larger bowl volume is a bad thing if your car is a weekend worrior, the blended gas varnishes in the bowl, if there is more of it, it leaves more varnish.

I had mine out all weekend and the roundtops loved the cool air here in MD, much crisper throttle response than the 100 degree summer dog days. What a blast!

I think the 240 stuff bolts up to the 260 up front.

What is/ was your fastest car?

Love it!

FWIW, a good quality flex fan is a much better choice, performance-wise.

I'm thinking you have a blown head gasket based on temp flux and the ceasing (hydro lock), timing could also be an issue. FWIW, if you go to a mechanic to "do your dirty work", you get a whole lot further treating him with kid gloves, than you do cursing and screaming. Most "mechanics" these days are nothing more than parts swappers and are quickly over their heads when they can't find a place to plug in their computer to tell them what's wrong. And carb problems, forget about it, they cant even adjust the linkage.

That it where I would go next, also. Clean lube and inspect all of the vacuum advance hardware, sounds like it works, just not properly. As for which electronic ignition, do a search, that dead horse has been beaten to a pulp.