5thhorsemann

I would start (as I did) by opening up the switch and inspecting the springs, spring caps and the switch tabs and terminals. Worry about the wiring after you have a known good switch.

I actually have a VAC gauge on my car and know how to read it, along with mechanical fule pressure, temp, and oil pressure gauges. I put a pressure switch on the oil pressure gauge line to the lights on the gauges, if they go out it means there is an oiling problem. Must watch the 40 year old mill closely to prevent problems.

No. I didn't miss anything.

If fabricating a 12 inch rod is frustrating and dramatic, well I just don't know what to say to that.

As a business owner, I can tell you that many of us are trying hard to do without hiring big ticket employees such as yourself till after the election. The last 4 years have been very tough on us and if we get 4 more of the same (even worse) with this guy, there won’t be any new jobs to be had for seasoned guys like you. I’m not trying to get political, just stating the facts as I witnessed them, sky rocketing overhead is killing us.

$299 bucks for something you should be able to reproduce for about $5.00 is nuts, like I said, your car is so highly modified that having the "proper" hand brake rod don't mean a thing.

1/4 inch stainless rod = $2.19 per foot, 1 clevice yoke = $1.50, 1 Nylon insert nut = $0.20.......Not having to put a chunk of 4X4 in front of the tire to keep the car in the driveway, PRICELESS.

It may be a little harder to make the parts yourself, depending on skill level of course, but you will save time and money and get that "I did it" proud feeling taking the DIY route. You will also get a stronger rig if you know what you are doing. God helps them what helps themselves.

You do know that you can likely find everything you need to fix the rod assembly at the Home Depot, it's not like you have a factory original car that you are trying to keep bone stock.

fuzze, Maryland and DC drivers are the worst in North America according to the insurance companies, we will give anyone a license to drive here. Add to that the construction of the roads laid over the buggy trails of the 1700's, and half of the people that can't drive to begin with are lost and looking to find their way home. The idea that you can compare track driving skills to road driving skills is dangerous. Sure knowing your cars handling characteristics translates to both, but 99% of the competition on the roads would be kicked off the track in the first lap. You have an expectation of what other drivers are going to pull in a race, no such expectations or trust of the others around you should exist in the real world. You should expect the worst out of other drivers, the stupidest, the most dangerous, and the least courteous is the soup dujoir every day

If you ever want to sell your Z PM me, sounds like it has never been driven.

If you have to ask this question, you will need to take a beginner driving course before you daily drive anything. Do us all a favor and stay out of sportscars for a few years.

I was going to buy Daves kit, but ended up just making my own, it was a time and impatients thing. It is after all is said and done, a really simple circuit to build, although Daves is cleaner than my off the reel wiring. The problem with putting a 60 amp alt in a car with undersized wiring for the original 30 amp gear is clear. I would think your new headlights likely draw more current than stock 70's bulbs did, so you are already taxing the wiring. The added stress on the wiring of a 60 amp alternator will surely cause a meltdown somewhere if you are already seeing "hot spots". When you go the relay route you are only driving relay coils with the stock wiring, the entire 30 amp circuit that supplies power to the lamps is new. I used 10 AWG stranded to build the entire lamp circuits and supplied the relays with 8 AWG stranded and a 30 amp breaker rather than fuses. I now enjoy total peace of mind where the headlights are concerned.

I love it, drama, WTF does drama mean anyway. He's talking about "back roads" but not doing any cornering (I could only take about 90 seconds of this kids crap). If you want drama get a Jewish girlfriend, if you want excitement, shut up and drive.

When I bought the car it had a (really anoying) thumper pump wired in by the dealer to combat the vaporlock issues the 73 suffered from. I had to address the VL problems further when I went to the SU round tops, I replaced the thumper with a Holley Blue pump (just as anoying) but I have had no problems with the charging system. I will advise you to go with the headlight relays if you put in a 60 amp alternator, this will save you fuse box headachs later.

That’s nonsense, I’ve ridden motorcycles for over 3 decades and I can tell you that on a motorcycle can maneuver your way out of a crash much easier than you ever could in a car. If you know how to ride, or drive for that matter, the vehicle you’re in or on, your chances of getting into an accident are greatly reduced. Being aware of your surroundings and road conditions are crucial to your safety. I will submit that I would rather be in a car if someone slams into me, or if you slam into something, accidents do happen after all, but to say that motorcycles are more dangerous or less safe than a car is a totally uninformed misconception.

I have a electric pump on my 73 and don't have any of this going on Steve. I went with the 60amp internally regulated alt and headlight relays at the same time and I endorse this modification/ upgrade, what a difference. I got the external regulator eliminator plug from MSA, do a thread search, lots of info here on that upgrade.

The number one saftey addition to any car, but a sports car in perticular, is a good set of driving skills. I advise everyone to take an advanced driving course, you will learn things that you would have never thought of otherwise. It also provides an air of confidence and makes the drive more fun.

Was he sitting atop an electric rocket before being launched into orbit? And how do you think his body was creamated, easy bake oven? In thrust we trust, baby....

When it comes to cleaning aluminum, ask a trucker, their rigs are slathered with aluminum parts and they like em' clean. If you hit one of the big truck stops like a T/A you can find an abundance of cleaners for all finishes of aluminum parts from sand cast to high polished.

Rite at the latch, less than 1 inch from the cable perch. these are the cable ends with a set screw, I bought a couple extras just to have on hand. Good to have spare McGuiver goodies when you drive a 40 year old car.

I agree E, but if there is a bad connection at the fuse block you will see that too if you use the voltage meter across the fuse (testing with the probes on the tabs, not the fuse itself) you will read a voltage drop caused by the resistance of the bad connection. A continuity test uses a very low voltage and almost no current to determin if there is a complete circuit. The voltage meter method gives you real world readings with the circuit under load. Arching at the fuseblock/ fuse connection due to a loose fuse holder in combo with a problem in the protected circuit often can cause the kind of problem that gets missed, and you will just keep fiddeling around with the fuses untill the real problem comes to a head and leaves you on the side of the road. By testing the system undisturbed you can find all the problem areas at one time (usually)

The truck was originaly a state vehicle that I bought on auction, it was not equipped with a cat from the factory. The GVW dictates the emission test requirement and I put the larger pumps on it as it would never pass the test without them. There are is no EGR system on this vehicle as it was never subject to emissions laws, with the exception of the larger pumps and the manual valve in place of the failed automatic valve, the trucks exhaust system is as it was from the factory. So, just to be clear, you are saying that the government is justified in punishing me as an outlaw for complying with their silly mandate.

The best way to test fuses is to check both sides to ground, a good fuse will show the same value to ground on both sides of the fuse, then check the voltage across the fuse, it should be 0.0 volts. If you are reading ANY voltage across the fuse, you are seeing a voltage drop and this tells you the fuse is bad. Continuity tests only work for a blown fuse or breaker, not one that is otherwise defective.

Go man go. I think you are getting carried away by you're new car, perhaps a bit of OCD developing where your Z is concerned. It usually takes a year or two for someone to get this far into their car after they drive it for a few thousand miles. Looks like you went passed kiddi pool and straite to the high dive. Lookin' good!