5thhorsemann

I had a 350 and you could go through the gears on her alot faster than that. The 260 isnt much quicker than my 240, and my 240 is nowhere close to the 350. Either this dude is full of fish or he simply can't drive. Pompas british arse.

I've been searching the dealer auctions for a 370 for almost a year now, absolutely refuse to pay over $18k for a car. Have gotten close on a few that went for under $20K, but I wasn't too fond of the color (all three were red) so I'm still looking. I hear there is a black one with the sport package going off at an auction with a salvage title from the recent floods. I plan to have a close look at it and if the price is right, it will soon be mine, I am thinking $5 to $7K range would be reasonable. BTW, I understand the water was only about half way up the doors so the dash and motor were spared.

What do you mean "do for power"? Doesn"t it run? I mean My 73 isn't the most powerful car I've owned, but it has plenty of horses to push it down the road.

Mine does this when I feed it cheap gas. It doesn't do it when I use Sunoco or Exxon, but when I fill up at the local 7-11 I get the run on.

Tire size is not an issue persay, the problems come when you run incompatable tires (radials mixed with bias ply) or hard compounds mixed with soft compounds. Also inflate the tires per the plate on the car or owners manual, not the max psi on the tire. Keep in mind that these cars were originally designed to be outfitted with BIAS PLY tires, radials were new to the seen when the HLS30 came out. The added traction of radials can cause oversteer in hard cornering, I would suggest that if everything isn't reasonably close to aligned you could get a tracking wobble for the same reason, but I got more wobble from the bias ply tires back in the day.

Polished stainless steel carrage bolts, McMaster-Carr has a nice selection.

What are you running for tires? The symptoms you describe can easily be caused by the tires being mismatched from front to back or tire pressure being too high or low front to back. A lesson learned early in my life; The tires and suspension are the most important part of the car, if they aren't of high quality and in good repair, you are in trouble.

You are a very detail oriented individual, are you not.

What are you going with carb wise? You also need to post pics of the lucky car that is going to get powered by this lil beauty.

Two words....................Jay Leno.............If he sees this he will go big bucks, not 300K, but well over 60,000.

SWEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll trade you my Ol' lady and some cold beer for it.

I saw one at a swap meet in PA last spring, didn't know what I was looking at. I THINK the guy was a member of a local Z club up around Carliles PA. Maybe worth doing a localized search for clubs in that area.

The anti rust is for after the onestep treatment, the one step link http://www.google.com/products/catalog?pq=one+step+rust+killer&hl=en&sugexp=bvec&cp=9&gs_id=s&xhr=t&q=mar+hyde+one+step+rust+killer&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1680&bih=869&wrapid=tljp1315600953093014&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=1533637957588519492&sa=X&ei=bnpqTtmyCubV0QG93cSMBQ&sqi=2&ved=0CGIQ8wIwAw#

Piece (of mind)...............Peace!

$160, I would go new, and sell the used to offset the cost.

Whats the cost savings of putting reworked rockers in apposed to new?

OneStep is rust converter. You should cut out the rust behind the wheel and see the extent of the cancer, looks worse than it is.

Check the header flange with a strait edege to make sure it's not too badly cupped or bowed.

I'd go with option 2, and adjust the rockers after replacing them in the order removed. You did mark their positions when they were removed, correct?

Put a vacuum gauge on the intake, bet you have a leak.

Looks better than some I have seen, the rust under the battery box area is not only common, but from what I've seen, it's to be expected. The surface rust in the second pic is a job for OneStep, not a problem. BTW, you only need to start one thread per problem, I'm just saying.

ditto

Actually, yes. I had a Chevy 350 that spun a bearing on valvoline racing blend, and a Ford 351 Cleveland that wiped out the cam bearings on the same stuff. Both motors were relatively fresh with full oil levels and up to date oil changes.

It's called the "3 ball wear test" and the SAE uses that test to rate oils. The measurements taken are wear, heat generation at different pressures and speeds, and at what point the metals begin to fuse or gaul. There is another factor that is of concern when you are talking about cars that get driven only on short trips durring good weather, that is the ability of the oil to suspend water in solution. When the hot car is parked, it sucks air into the crank case as it cools, this process is repeated as hot days and cool nights cause the air to expand and contract. condensation forms within the crank. Since the engin block stays cool as it sits, the condensation builds up in the oil pan. This is the reason I run amsoil 100% synthetic in everything that I own with a motor, of all the oils I looked at, amsoil has the ability to suspend the highest percentage of water in solution at all temps below 212 degrees F, at which point the oil looses the water to vapor. This reduces sludge, wear, and the oil can also better deal with the condensation and acids therein at cold start. Everything gets a fresh dose of oil in the spring and filter replacements based on mileage throughout the year. I have not had an oil related problem with any of my cars or equipment since I started using this practice, what else can I say.

Do yourself a favor and wrap the header with the insulation tape to keep engine compartment temps down. And apply the wrap before you install the header, it's a PITA to do it on the car.