5thhorsemann

Piece (of mind)...............Peace!

$160, I would go new, and sell the used to offset the cost.

Whats the cost savings of putting reworked rockers in apposed to new?

OneStep is rust converter. You should cut out the rust behind the wheel and see the extent of the cancer, looks worse than it is.

Check the header flange with a strait edege to make sure it's not too badly cupped or bowed.

I'd go with option 2, and adjust the rockers after replacing them in the order removed. You did mark their positions when they were removed, correct?

Put a vacuum gauge on the intake, bet you have a leak.

Looks better than some I have seen, the rust under the battery box area is not only common, but from what I've seen, it's to be expected. The surface rust in the second pic is a job for OneStep, not a problem. BTW, you only need to start one thread per problem, I'm just saying.

ditto

Actually, yes. I had a Chevy 350 that spun a bearing on valvoline racing blend, and a Ford 351 Cleveland that wiped out the cam bearings on the same stuff. Both motors were relatively fresh with full oil levels and up to date oil changes.

It's called the "3 ball wear test" and the SAE uses that test to rate oils. The measurements taken are wear, heat generation at different pressures and speeds, and at what point the metals begin to fuse or gaul. There is another factor that is of concern when you are talking about cars that get driven only on short trips durring good weather, that is the ability of the oil to suspend water in solution. When the hot car is parked, it sucks air into the crank case as it cools, this process is repeated as hot days and cool nights cause the air to expand and contract. condensation forms within the crank. Since the engin block stays cool as it sits, the condensation builds up in the oil pan. This is the reason I run amsoil 100% synthetic in everything that I own with a motor, of all the oils I looked at, amsoil has the ability to suspend the highest percentage of water in solution at all temps below 212 degrees F, at which point the oil looses the water to vapor. This reduces sludge, wear, and the oil can also better deal with the condensation and acids therein at cold start. Everything gets a fresh dose of oil in the spring and filter replacements based on mileage throughout the year. I have not had an oil related problem with any of my cars or equipment since I started using this practice, what else can I say.

Do yourself a favor and wrap the header with the insulation tape to keep engine compartment temps down. And apply the wrap before you install the header, it's a PITA to do it on the car.

The valance is where you will rub, if it is gone, you should have no problem. I'm running 235/60 14's all the way around, rubbed on all 4 corners due to weak springs, replaced the front springs which eliminated 90% of the contact. once I finish the rears, should no longer be a problem. So, if you have soft springs, you might rub a bit.

I disagree with the bushing being the problem, unless it's locked on the shaft and spun in the housing. Even then, the housing would get so hot that it would come apart in short order. I would also recommend that you take the part to someone else to have it looked at by fresh eyes. Your expert doesn't sound so hot to me. You do know what an expert is, right? EX-SPERT; An EX is a has-been and a SPERT is a drip under pressure.

I built a speaker box that sits over the spare tire well and straps down in the hatch. That way you can use basically any set of speakers you want and it can be unpluged and removed easily to do housekeeping or maintenance opperations. They also make a tail light cover panel to accomodate speakers. If you are dead set on using the vent panels, I don't think you need to worry about explosions, the vapor to air ratio required to create an explosion is pretty high, and would drive you out of the cockpit. Exhaust fumes, if already a problem, will likely worsten.

I think you are not getting enough fuel, check your filter and blow out the lines. You aren't having the problem at lower speeds/ gears because you are smart enough not to run those RPM's in lower gears for an extended time.

If the entire housing is moving, you have a bent shaft or coupling somewhere. I would say that this will come to a head at some point, which will likely require a rollback. I would replace the whole thing.

Talk about the media overhyping and crying wolf, Irene was a fart in the wind compared to the juggernaut they were warning of. The better safe than sorry, excuses are no excuse. When the next one comes, and it really is a killer storm, no one will take the appropriate measures because the media, much like our government has lost all credibility when it comes to these things. I liken it to the way the government passes these prophylactic laws that erode our freedoms, and they simply say it was for your own good when the laws fail to do what they said they passed it to accomplish in the first place. Maby Obama should form a commission to study the benefits of declaring a war on Irene

I still don't understand what you mean by wobble, is it the center shaft flopping around in the housing, like a bad bushing or bearing? Is the rotor rotating off center like the shaft is bent? Or is the whole bamn thing, housing cap and all moving around? Please explain.

Have to agree with Julio on this one, I love the thin stock wheel. On long drives the fat wheels make my knuckles hurt. When I refinished the wheel on a friends car we added shark skin to the varnish on the underside of the wheel and that gives you excellent grip when you need it and allows you to let the wheel slide through your fingers coming out of turns. Also, I have never been a fan of the rubberized wheels, they get sticky and nasty over time and are hard to keep clean.

I admire your restraint, you make me feel like a maniac behind the wheel of my Z. Sounds good though, and I see you are aflicted by the same goofy smile that sits under my nose every time I drive the 240.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

How much fuel did the car take when you filled it up? I had a problem with my 73 where I could only get half a tank of fuel into it. Did you try jumping out the sender to see if the gauge pegs on full?

I think he is suggestion the commission of the OP's fraud by switching the vin. no.

John is rite, one word, one sylable answers to the "G" man's questions are best.