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5thhorsemann

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Everything posted by 5thhorsemann

  1. Nope, Not westerns, must be the american racing wheels. They look like the castings are ALOT lighter than mine. Thanks for the pic. With the fat tires it handels great, a little tough to steer in parking lots though.
  2. $4200 is a little high for a 21 year old car with 200K miles, beat him to death on price, if you can get it for around $3K (in really good condition) go for it. With the economy where it is, nothing is moving fast.
  3. If the drive shaft spline isnt fully ingaged, that could slip in one direction only if its worn, ust a thought, not real knowlagable on tranny drive shaft swaps.
  4. My springs were mush, I did the fronts, then got slammed with work. Work load lightened, and I turned around and broke a few ribs. I actually drove the car for the first time today since hurting myself, but I'm still weeks away from being able to do the rear suspension. So, the rear of the car is still very loose spring wise, and when I hit a hump, dip or big bump the rear tires rub ever so slightly against the return, or lip of the quarter panels. Can you post a pic of the back side of your wheels, I was told that mine were westerns by the mechanic that mounted the tires, but I have no actual documentation to back it up. I'd like to see if the casting marks match up.
  5. Western wheel "speedster directionals" The caps are not original to the wheels. I put 235/60R14 tires on all the way around and experienced rubbing till I put the new Stiff springs up front. The back still rub on big bumps but no longer on curves. The new springs will fix the rear rub when I get healthy enough to install them. They look really good when they are shined up. Hope this helps.
  6. The bearing would be grinding in reverse as well as forward. Also, I think reverse and first share some cogs. Was the rear replaced too? What else is mismatched?
  7. It's silica, someone was running strait tap water through a leaking cooling system for a while. If you are on "city water" as apposed to "well water" or use alot of water softeners you will find the same stuff in the bottom of your home water heater. It is water soluable and will flush easily.
  8. That is a major no no. The ceramic insulator is abrasive, it will pick up metal from the bristles and become conductive to an extent weakening or killing the spark. Replace them before going any farther, sorry I can't add any other input to help with the fule issue, I don't know a hole lot about these EFI systems, but the plugs aren't helping matters.
  9. BTW, I've never had a problem with a fuel pump getting hot, warm to the touch perhaps, but hot, not.
  10. I wouldn't go so far as to say that, I've done it (dead headded) several times with Carters, Holleys, Faucets and others, always with good results. Note that they were all internally regulated. But, if the return plumbing is all there and in good shape, I would use it.
  11. That seems reasonable, but I would think you should go slow with the drillling, no more than one or two wire sizes at a time. Just keep going till the problem eases, too fast and you might end up with too low a pressure which will agrivate the VL.
  12. Keep in mind, the most important use for your car extinguisher is ESCAPE. If the car is burning with you in it, you need to suppress the flames enough to get out. Dry chem extinguishers will choak you out and likely blind you as well, in the confined space of the car cabin. Get a good halon or FM200 unit, they knock out the fire and are good for repeated discharges, also, they are good for as long as the pressure is in the good range. Keep in mind C02 units will suffocate you as well as the fire. Summit racing carries the good, but pricey units.
  13. A backdated bill of sale could take care of all that, especially if it goes out of state, hint hint Sarah.
  14. I think it may have something to do with the coolent flow through the flat top carbs, thats just a hunch. The hood vents on the 74 will ease the kind of issue I'm experiencing. The fuel boils off when the car is parked and it won't start without cooling the lines with water. Once I get it in motion the engine bay cools off and the car runs okay.
  15. Take the alt to an auto parts store and have it tested, I wouldnt take it apart, just blow it out with high pressure air. As for the harness, I pull the gromets back into the cabin and bag and mask the harness and suspend the bag between the strut towers and paint around it, just my 2 cents.
  16. It's a 73 with all the 72 intake stuff. I have the 73 recall manual for the VL mods, but aside from the pusher pump I've done all the recommended mod's. I won't have to worry about VL as it will be nice and cool by the time I can drive it again, thanks for the well wishes.
  17. mayia copia (spelling dosent count on this one)
  18. Ive got plenty of time to get the parts together on this fix, just got a call from my doc, had the Xrays read and determined I have 4 broken ribs and 2 bruised in my left back. I put the car in the garage yesterday and had to get help to get out of it. Looks like at least 6 weeks before I'll be able to drive it without the use of an engine lift to remove my dead a$$ from the drivers seat. Sigh.............
  19. The only problem with "investing" in cars (for me anyway) is 1)I can't just let it sit. And 2) I always feel sick for a period of time when I sell it. I am completly lost as to where to put my money these days, the only investment that I have that is actually growing faster than inflation is a Chinese power company that is building and opperating a fleet of coal fired electric plants, seeing about 18% on that one and hope against hope that it lasts.
  20. I guess I am speaking out of my field here, I was thinking direct port injection, which 280Z's are not. So perhaps a damper or "hammer arester" would have some stabelizing effect afterall.
  21. 6 injectors firing every second rev @ 1000 rpm = 3000 injection pulses.
  22. It's not exactly a river of oil, looks like a winter project to me.
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