5thhorsemann

I got two different versions off of ebay, and downloaded a third form links on this page, do a thread search.

In my years of buying and selling cars and bikes (Harley-Davidsons) I have never come across a car that has such ignorance as to it's value as the early Z's. Most bikers, when asked the value of a certin H-D model, will poll about the same, + or - 10%. Same with older Fords' GM's and Mopars, sellers seem to know what their car is worth, or at least what they are bringing. You shop the old Z's, and the prices seem to swing wildely. That is really true in the north east, perhaps because there are so few and the condition of the available stock is so varied, that making a comparason gets confusing and people scare themselves into strange valuations of what they see before them. I get asked the old "what did you pay?" question alot, and I get everything from the jaw droping "your kidding!" to the disbeleaving "your full of poop." (poop was for Arns benifit) People just don't have any idea, such was the case with my cars P.O. I'm sure I could sell it today and double my money, or better, but then what? Go out and buy someone elses headach, and have a car that is nowhere near as cool or fun as my Z, and end up spending all the profit on fixing up the next toy, regretting it all the way.

Do you really think a high frequency damper would do anything to improve fuel delivery at RPMS over 1000 to 1500? On a 6 cyl your lines see 3000 PPM or 50 pps at 1000 RPM. The gasoline is light enough alone, adding the ethanol makes it even lighter, I wonder where the pressure pulse would flatline, RPM wise. If you look at how a hydraulic system behaves (using hyd. fluid, or brake fluid, which are heavy and dense compared to gasoline) at low (pump) rpms the systems are slugish and you can feel the vibrations through the controlls, like peddal feedback on brakes. But if you rev the whole thing up it gets smooth as silk. I would think the gasoline would act as its own shock absorber at a very low rpm. Anyone running a mechanical fuel pressure gauge that can speak to that? Back to the VL. I'm using pheonalic washers on my fuel line at the head, same stuff the carb heat isolators are made of. The hard lines are wrapped in fiberglass and have a 3 mil. reflective aluminum shield tape (one layer thick) over the FG. The fuel filter is before the pump, and mounted at about the same height, thats how I came to the VL conclusion so quickly. I could see that the filter was empty, and when it did begin to fill the fuel was boiling within the filter itself. I think the pusher pump is going to be my savior on this one, and I also think I am just going to stick the Faucet pump back at the tank because the existing mounts and wiring will fit rite up, after all, it's cheep enough and they are very dependable from what I've heard and read.

You have a volt meter, if connected properly it should be reading the entire potential across the battery terminals, to include the charging circut. The battery should be around 12V, we know this to be true. the only other thing capable of creating electrical potential (voltage) in the car is the alternator, which is governed by the regulator. Therefor, since you are seeing a full field condition at the battery, via your new gauge, (and this has been verified with a meter) your problem is reg. wiring, or the reg. itself. Please excuse the scientific speak, just read the vaporlock thread front to back and it put me back in college mode. I need a beer.

Wow, I broke a few ribs falling down a flight of steps Tuesday night and have been laid up for a few days. I assure you it is painful, but not as painful as this thread has become. SUPERHEATING The state of pretty much any matter depends on two things, temperature and pressure. Molten rock, for instance, in a liquid state can be subjected to enough pressure as to freeze back into a solid state, regardless of temperature. Likewise, under the proper circumstances, solid rock can be subjected to a sufficient bombardment of thermal energy as to cause it to go directly from a solid state to a vapor state, as demonstrated in volcanic eruptions. Superheating is a term which describes the amount of thermal energy that a given form of matter needs to absorb in order to change from a solid state directly to a vapor state, thereby skipping its liquid state altogether. Super heating has no place in a vapor locking discussion. EFI As for the FI discussion, when the injector opens, the orifice opens into a VACUUM, thereby radically altering the boiling point of the pressurized fuel, which would be aggravated by, fuel that is many degrees above the boiling point (at atmospheric pressure), along with the hot environment of the combustion chamber. This causes a lean condition (which at some point will become too lean to burn), detonation and other problems associated with the IC engine. The delta T of the specific fuel blend, the amount of mass the liquid fuel comes into contact with (once the pressure is removed from the fuel), the thermal coefficient and temperature of that mass being encountered by the fuel (the ability of the various metals to transfer heat) all play a roll in these conditions (there are many other factors which also have effects on combustion). The fact of the matter is, that as long as your fuel pump has access to liquid fuel and is able pressurize a closed system with that liquid fuel, any vapor will be sufficiently compressed as to return to its liquid state in short order. SO NO, AN EFI CAR CAN NOT SUFFER FROM VAPOR LOCK. CARBURATION Carbureted engines are completely different in so much as the fuel must exist in within the bowl, in a liquid state, at atmospheric pressure, in sufficient quantities, as to feed the jets with enough liquid fuel, that can be atomized again in sufficient quantities as to sustain combustion. The inability of the delivery system to supply an adequate amount of fuel to the carburetor bowl, is defined as VAPOR LOCK. THE QUESTION IS (WAS) What crafty little tricks have you desert dwellers come up with to minimize the vapor locking issues inherent to early Z’s? Seriously, I wasn’t trying to revisit Physics 101, I was simply looking for elegant solutions to the problem, so the car runs well in hot weather, the engine compartment stays as uncluttered as possible, and I don’t drain my bank account. I did enjoy the thread though.

**** would be my guess This is what the late night / early morning will look like though http://www.wimp.com/barfingcup/ watch the hole thing and listen to the commentary. Fitting.

Its a hydraulic system, keep under 3 psi. The volume rises and falls with demand but pressure should remain constant from the fuel pump at the regulator output.

FSM has good instructions on the installation, just go by the numbers.

Also keep in mind, these are about the easiest cars to work on that were ever made. That, along with the wealth of knowledge and experience found here (not to mention the parts sources) make your old Z a worthy candidate for a restore or fix-(h)er-upper

I recently went through the entire fuel circut and cleaned and blew everything out, including the returne lines. I Insulated the the lines using fiberglass matt insulation and reflective foil tape. It seemed to help a little bit, but Sunday the vapor lock happened again after sitting in the sun for 15 min. or so. I guess I will have to put the electric pusher pump back on the car. When I went with the round top carbs, I was told by many that it wasnt necessary to prevent the VL problem, so it was omitted, one less thing to fail. I guess that was wrong. I know there is a company called Pegasus racing that has the replacement fuel pump that was installed on the 73 recall, anyone use this pump? http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=85 This is the exact pump that was removed from my car, it has been internally modified since the original install to use less power and pump more efficently, but it is the faucet replacement.

Sex-ie, you do nice work Blue.

The eastern seaboard is getting roasted lately, yesterday we hit 103 and I had parked the car in the sun after a spirited highway run. Like 15 min. later I got in started fine and off I went, I didn't make it a half a block when she started to go heavy lean so I ducked into a parking lot where it sputtered and died and I drifted into a shady spot and popped the hood. I got a gallon of water and cooled the carbs (twin su r/t's) fuel pump and hard lines. After a little coaxing I got her to start again and got myself to an air conditioned bar. Today its over 100 again, I did a short run to the gas station and the hardware store and back home. I parked in the sun for only 4 or 5 minutes, started it up and a half a block down the road it sputtered and stalled. I did the water trick and off I went. It seems to be that only when she's parked in the sun will she get hot enough to stall. It seems like opening the hood and splashing water on the fuel delivery components is enough to fix the vaporlock, so I'm not that concerned about it. My question to the desert dwellers is, how did you modify your cars to combat the vapor lock issues on your early carburated 240 Z? I did a search and read a bunch of stuff, but vapor lock is a hard search.

That wont work for my hood damage . Look at how the front of the hood is pushed down and caved in at the forward support. The right is before, the left after.

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=151/CA=191

Julio, what manufacture and code did you use to paint your 72? I love the look and that is the color and finish I want on my 73, Is that the PPG 2 stage metallic, in 901 silver that I am considering?

So, if you don't mind me asking, what was the price range of the hoods you looked at.

Alright, found a 260 grill at a yard sale today, so I got it and a blinker & headlight switch for $33.00. Back to the shop, took the three long slats off of mine and replaced the three short slats on the new one. That gets rid of the holes in the grill from the bumper mounts. Cleaned it up and painted it silver, made a new tag/ blinker mount, and bolted it up. So this took about an hour (plus drying time) and cost lets say $20 bucks to accomplish, I'm a happy horsemann! Man, look at how bad the hood is pushed down, I'd like to find the SOB that hit her.

Yea, I see the door pin wiring, shown as black. I do not see the buzzer, the transmission switch (which buzzes when in gear if the lap belt is not worn) or the seatbelt switch. All of which are blue or green on my 73.

That explains why I can find neither the buzzer or wires in my FSM DIAGRAMS FOR MY 73.

Do a forum search herein, I seem to recall a thread in the past few months thst addresses that problem.

I'm trying to recall, it's been a while, but I THINK they are associated with the door and seatbelt buzzer. Does the car buzz with key in & door open and/ or seat belt off and car in gear?

year & model?

Start the car and while it is at idle pull the fuse or plug on the pump, when the car dies it will have some line pressure, but not alot. Just crack the fittings slowley, you'll be fine.

If you still have the original flat top carbs on the car, that would be my starting point as well.

The US is a big place...............Define Local.