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5thhorsemann

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Everything posted by 5thhorsemann

  1. I think, scratch that, I know you will get a better result with a diff swap to get your car "quicker" with alot less work and money. The gear ratios you list above are just going to move the issues you are having from one gear to another, don't you think?
  2. Saw this posted on ebay this am. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320726637419&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
  3. The hood has to come off and I might be able to get it strait(er) with hammer, dolly & spoons. It's the worst place on the hood to fix, hands down. As for the cams, that was my first thought. Went to the managers office and I could look right at the lot monitors. That part of the lot is behind a row of trees, couldn't see the car, or the exit behind it. So thats a no go. I guess I will have to keep my eyes open for another hood, maby one with the vent panels (280).
  4. Get your hands on the 260 and 280 wiring diagrams, take them to a local print shop that can blow them up to blueprint size and make a hybird wiring diagram for your car. It aint easy or fast to do a project like this, and you won't be a wiring knob when you are finished. And you will have a record of what you did so you can fix and modify things later. Good luck.
  5. Well, I only made it one day with the new body work before some Mother f@#ker hit the front of the car in a parking lot and split without leaving a note. I know its only a small dent, but it kinked the leading edge of the hood as well as the structural member below. I was parked all alone in the middle of an almost empty grocery store lot. If I ever find this bastard I will return the favor in kind by denting his (or her) nose. This really pisses me off to no end. Can't have anything without someone screwing it up. BTW, even if I HAD the bumper on the car, this butthole would have hit the hood, looks like his bumper overrode the leading edge of the hood, rite in the center too.
  6. I welded the fenders, shugar scoops and cowel together and made sheet metal filler panels which also got welded in. Took about a pint of marglaze, and finished with about a pint of featherite. I didnt do the metal glaze yet, that will come when the car gets stripped and painted this winter. Not a bad days work, if I do say so myself.
  7. There are basically two kinds of Z out there, restorable and unrestorable. His is the later, which makes it a candidate for full blown custom. The roof thing is a reach for me, have to see it live to form a real opinion, but not digging the pics. The flairs are cool but the front end is likewise a bit too much for my taste. Looks like a driftard, fast and furrious street racer in the making. Live long and prosper, you might as well get used to the Klingon jokes.
  8. I bought mine on ebay, I read the guys feedback and looked hard at the posted pics to be sure everything was there linkage wise. As I recall, I paid just under $300 without the air box. They are relitively simple to work on, and as long as they are complete you should have no problems.
  9. The flatties are garbage, I picked up a set of used R/T's off of a 72 and bolted them up on my 73 and it was as if God smiled down on the car and healed all its ills. I will bet you anything that it will fix alot of your troubles. If you cant swing the cash for fresh and beautiful ZT carbs, find a set of used for like $300 and clean em up, you will thank yourself in the end. Ditch the smog gear as well, its useless on a 73.
  10. Made an overlay but couldn't get the fill to apply corectly in the plot wireframe, but it should give you a good idea of what I have in mind,
  11. Could be a full feilding condition, check the output at the alt, and again at the batt.
  12. I had one sitting side by side with my 240 just last night, very different cars. I think you need to rethink your plan.
  13. I looked high and low for one when I went from flatties to a 72 R/T intake. Granted, my surfing skills are not the best, I found it easier to wing it. What vintage intake/ motor are you looking for.
  14. Exceptional work, you should be proud of yourself, and the car as well.
  15. So what kind of pressure are you seeing?
  16. I saw a pretty trick setup on a car at a show last summer, as I recall it was made by Moroso, but don't quote me. It was an adjustable auxiliary pump that was fitted to the oil filter port. it had dual remote filters and an integrated oil cooler with a pressure gauge on the output. It looked really slick and would mount nicely in an old Z. The pressure adjustment was a simple regulated bypass circut which makes for constant output pressure regardless of oil temp. The mechanical pump in the pan acts as a stuffer pump.
  17. Man, that is a sweet 280, congrats on the find.
  18. This is going on the door and the rays will wrap around and meet under the racing stripe. I think all but the top two rays will hit the rear tire opening. AXIS POWER BABY!
  19. For a car with so little wiring, these things sure do have alot of electrical problems. I mean what would drive an engineere to seperate the headlights in the fuse panel? I have heard good things about the zonthebrain headlight harness upgrade, makes em bright and dependable. I was thinking of going that way myself once I get the more pressing projects off my plate.
  20. I had a similar problem, turned out that the spring cover that is inside actuator/rocker part of the switch itself was toast. made a new one and solved the problem.
  21. Need a little more info than that to help you find your problem.
  22. Did you check the output of the alt at the alt directly. If there is nothing there your field connections might be an issue.
  23. Did you try the old alt with a new reg? Is the new Alt internally regulated?
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